Mr_RS4

No worries, have just been doing the same thing to mine, although I used adj bushes in most areas apart from castor and toe rods. Makes a huge difference.

Do you really need adjustable rear camber arms, how much camber adjustment do you need? You can get roughly 1.5 degrees with bushes on the rear with x2 kits (I realise a couple of camber kits cost more than the huge amount of pillow ball arms out there these days) but you don't have to worry about the bearings wearing out and knocking around. As for the front you might as well get ofset poly bushes for the front control arm outers (fulcrum do inners as well), at least you'll have some front camber adjustment. My RS4 sits roughly 340mm front and 330mm rear and I was able to get enough correction with inner and outer front control arm ofset bushes and inner and outer ofset bushes on the rear camber and traction arms. I previously had all pillow ball adjustable arms on the car and went back to bushes because I got sick of them wearing out and the maintainence on them. I did keep my front castor rods though as the ofset bushes don't give enough +ve castor for my liking and I'm not forking out $500+ for Ikeya Formula bushed castor rods. Whiteline do make bushed adjustable camber and traction arm but they're not cheap either. Also I ended up having to get adjustable rear toe rods (non hicas) as I ran out of toe adjustment on the rear. I got NeoTec ones from NZ and they are one of the best looking arms I used/seen yet and the prices were good too. $160 shipped. But seeing as yours is a manual stagea you should have hicas so you might have enough adjustment in the rear toe rods.

Am having the exact same issue in my stagea at the moment, just as you described it and I have just replaced EVERYTHING, new front driveshafts, ball joints, bushes, swaybar links, castor rods, tie rods etc... And like you said everything is tight and it doesn't do it all the time. Can be on the worst road and nothing (apart from usual rattles inside). But it also seems like it does it when the suspension drops not compresses. And its also on the passenger side too. Even checked my front subframe bolts and strut top bolts. Its driving me nuts. I'll try tightening the nuts that you did and see, did it end up fixing the noise. Its a pretty descent clunnk when it does happen though.

^^^Also make sure you either mark how far down the thread the old one is (each side) before undoing anything. If you just loosen the locking nut and screw them off with out marking them your front toe alignment will be way out more than likley. But unless you've had an alignment done recently then it probably wouldn't hurt to get it checked after anyway.

Well some of you may have read in another thread about my trying to figure out a combo that would work for my sub frame swap in my C34. Well turned out to be a much easier exercise that I thought and now its all done. Spent all day Friday and all day yesterday (till 11pm last night) getting all this done but its great to finally have it back on the road. So here is the list: -Replaced front drive shafts (got mine reconditioned, got sick of having workshops putting shitty universal boots on and splitting a few months later) -Replaced innner and outer lower control arm ball joints on the front -Replaced the front upper control arm inner bushes and outer bushes (both ofset camber adjustable, better than just the outer) -Put in all new rubber pieces in my struts (SK's group buy kit, still use factory parts) the parts that sit between the bumpstop and the top hat, and the ones that sit on top of the top hat -Replaced all the inner and outer bushes in all the arms and knuckles in the rear with ofset adjustables (except for the lower control arms, just regular poly bushes in them). -Swapped the sub frames over. And I didn't replace the sub frame bushes as I just didn't have the time, they were still in great nick and I decided to use solid sub frame locking bushes instead but I'll get back to that. And the rest of the time was spent changing ride heights and trying to dummy up a ghetto wheel alignment till I can get it in next week to be done. For the sub frame swap all I used was an S15 sub frame and S15 drive shafts (I have the 3x2 bolt pattern on my diff flanges) so these bolted straight on. And thats all I needed, it was a really easy job (way easier than I was expecting). Everything else is my stock stagea parts. There are other combos that will work too, you could still use a GTR diff and 6x1 bolt drive shafts (strength) and just replace the Stagea rear hubs with GTR ones bolted into the Stagea rear knuckles so you don't need to change to fork shocks, or use gtst shafts if you have a 5 bolt diff already (which I didn't). And it definatley does reduce the rear track, the 18" 9.5+22 work genomes that I've fitted were hanging out about 3 or more cm before, now they JUST sit inside the guards. But I've actually got a little +ve camber on the rear atm till I get an alignment (unusual for a lowered Nissan )so they will probably sit in a little more when its done. As for the solid cradle bushes (the type that sit over the factory ones, not the completely solid bushes) I really don't know why everyone whinges about them. They haven't increased NVH at all and the rear feels some much better than with the pineapples I had in there. Could just be me but noise and comfort wise they haven't made a difference. So all in all basically every bush, rubber, ball joint, c.v etc etc under the car is all new now, just waiting for my sway bay alloy locks, links and some steering rack bushes to arrive then thats it! Although it still needs a wheel alignment and the rear guards lipped (a very light scrubbing on the passenger rear, but that might change once aligned) it rides really well, better than it ever has. NVH is probably better than before, its very firm and responsive but not uncomfortable at all. Can't wait to take it for a descent drive to see how good it really is, babying it because of the scrubbing at the moment! Oh and one thing that was a very nice surprise, I always thought that most S1 stagea's were stuck with a crappy open wheeler pos R200 but had heard somewhere on here a long time ago that there was a factory option for a vlsd R200. Well I guess someone checked that box back in 1997 I have never really bothered checking it out before now, just assumed I would have been stuck with the open diff. Chucked up some crappy mobile phone pics, will take some with a better camera once its aligned and everything.

I would of started another thread except for 2 reasons. 1). This was already a topic of discussion in here anyway as he WAS going to do the same conversion (everyone always whinges about new threads getting started when one already exists) and 2). he's selling the car now anyway so where else is this thread going??? If a mod wants to move it or delete it fine by me.

Yeah as I've found out you can just press the abs rings off the flanges and put them on other flanges (I'm guessing this is what your workshop did) and probably bolted all R32 diff and 6x1 flanges into your stagea housing. I guess you kept the stagea cradle too seeing as they had to use different length drive shafts to bolt up to the R32 flanges being that its 50mm wider and you wanted the GTR style 6x1 bolt axles. If you look closely at a gtst diff for eg. without the abs rings on the flanges you can see a slight taper where the rings will fit. Buggered if I know why Nissan did it 2 ways??? It doesn't seem as hard as I originally thought now though, but I have a lot of other stuff to do on the car right now that takes priority over a GTR diff and axles (it's only making 165awkw atm anyway and its still auto for now) so I'm going to just try the S14 ones, I know they have the same 3x2 bolt pattern as my flanges. Seeing as I'm using the S14 cradle and afaik the splines aren't different then I can't see why they won't work (fingers crossed). But later down the track I will get a GTR diff (put into my housing), axles and hubs (bolted into my knuckles)as I now know this combo will work and will probably convert to brembos at the same time. I will post again once its done and let all know how it goes.

Well I already got my bars a couple of years ago in SK's group buy but would definately be interested in the front sway bar links, was going to get these anyway while its off the road. PM sent.

Actually after more searching I have found that the rear knuckles in the stagea are pretty much the same throughout the series of silvia's, skylines's, stagea's, laurels etc....and the hubs seem to be the same too (except the 4 stud S13's)so there really isn't any reason why I can't use S14 3x2 bolt shafts. (Cheapest and easiest way, but still have the non lsd diff) But something I didn't know you can also do is remove the abs rings off the diff flanges and press them onto non abs diff flanges, have read on a few different sites where people have done this (same reasons as me). So that clears that one up. (could still just get a gtst vlsd and shafts, swap everything into my housing and swap the abs rings over to the gtst flanges, little more work than first option but get an lsd) And also I've read up on couple of threads on different sites (sau included) where people have put the GTR diff into S14's for the extra strength and thicker drive shafts, all they've had to do is change the yoke for the tailshaft (I wouldn't need to do this) and removed the S14 hubs and put the GTR hubs into the S14 knuckles, the rest stays S14. At least I seem to have found answers but now have more thinking to do.....grrrrrr!

The only thing thats stopping me there is I'm yet to see 5 bolt flanges with the abs sensors on the flanges (see the pic I used above with the red lines around them), all the R33gtst diffs and other non GTR or Stagea diffs I've seen don't have the sensors on each flange. Look at the pic you'll see what I'm talking about. I assume the S2 auto and factory manual stagea must use the 5 bolt flanges because the guys that have done the S14 subframe swap on here (keeping the rest of their stagea parts) have S2's and have used only the subframe and R33 driveshafts and changed nothing else. I've been looing around on the net a lot and all the pics I've seen of S14/15 drive shafts all have the 3x2 bolt ends on them (same as my diff), so I think for now I'm just going to give that a go. I'll be using an S14 subframe too, so there isn't any reason I can see why they won't work. A lot of the rear end parts on S1's are the same as S14 anyway or at least interchangable. If this works I'll sort out an LSD centre later on, will probably just save up and go for a Nismo or something instead of messing around with a thrashed out second had one.

And another question, if the S14 shafts will work (or gtst with my 3x2 bolt ends on them) and I still want to put and LSD centre in, what will work with 3x2 bolt flanges, obviously S14's use this bolt pattern so will an S14 centre fit in my housing, might have to swap the back plate or something. I know most people do this the other way around, but if a skyline diff centre will fit in an S14 housing just by swaping the back plate, surely it works the other way around? As you can tell I haven't played around with diffs much before

Ok so I'm hoping someone can help me out here, I might as well keep posting in this thread instead of starting a new one seeing as its kind of on topic anyway. I'm doing the S14 subframe swap and pulled everything out of the car on the weekend. Now I'm stuck. I know which subframe to get thats the easy part, not sure what to do diff wise. I've got a S1 auto and have the 3x2 bolt diff flanges which rules out being able to just use R33gtst driveshafts and bolt them straight on, which everyone seems to say is all you need to change (I'm guessing that S2 stageas use the 5 bolt diff flanges or something). I don't want to go with a GTR subframe swap as I want to keep my shocks and the rest of the stagea gear. AFAIK the stagea diff housing is the only one with the attessa mouting points on the housing (GTR's have the elsewhere), so I'm going to have to keep my housing. If I get a GTR diff I will end up with the GTR 6 bolt diff flanges, meaning I will have to use GTR shafts and then I'll be up for the GTR hub, brake and shock conversion too (want to aviod that). And all the GTST diffs I've seen don't have the abs sensors on each diff flange, only the stagea and gtr diffs I've seen have that. So my idea's are to just give up on the LSD centre for now and use S14 driveshafts (they all seem to be the 3x2 bolt pattern too and hopefully will fit), or (I read this in another thread somewhere on here) that you could use the GTR diff and driveshafts, put the whole diff and flanges into the stagea housing, use the GTR shafts and hubs but use the stagea knuckles so I keep the "eye" style shock mount. Or another idea (this would be idead if it will work) can I get the 3x2 bolt end of my stagea shafts and swap them with the 5 bolt end of gtst shafts? If anyone can help out it would be much appreciated......

Yeah I was thinking that would still work, but the only other thing I was thinking about is won't the shocks have to be pulled in towards the subframe more to bolt up again (as everything is moving 50mm in). I know there is some movement there but is it enough? Correct me if I'm wrong here though..... And also depending on what shocks/springs or coilovers you'd be using, you'll probably have to space it out again to clear the shock body and/or lower spring seat although not as much as 50mm? I'm not doubting that it works as people on here have done it (although I thought they'd used the fork mounting shocks instead) just trying to work it out in my head

Are you still going to have to change to fork end rear shocks using the s14 subframe? I need to do the same thing as the new wheels i've got are sitting about 30mm outside the guards at the moment and I haven't even dropped it down again yet from the height it was at when I had my stockies on. Also i'm not using stretched tyres either, and am not getting rid of the 255's that are on there as they're near new and cost a fortune. And from what I understand using the narrower subframe is going to pull the inside of the wheel closer to the shock and lower spring seat (I've got the SK group buy kit, so bilsteins with a largish spring seat compared to most coilovers)which is also worrying me. So I'm going to have to use spacers to clear the spring seat. Why do the final motion wide body guards have to be so pricey

Hey guys, I am chasing a few little suspension bits that some of you that have fitted coilovers may still have. I am after the front drivers side strut top hat (I sheared both the studs off mine) and one rear strut top hat (they are the same for either side on the rear). Am also wondering if anyone has the little rubber bush type thing that goes under the metal plate where the bolt for the shock is. You can see it through the hole that the strut comes though in the engine bay. I don't have any pics on me at the moment but if you look where the exposed thread of the shock comes through into the engine bay,then where the nut holding that in is there is a metal plate below the nut then the rubber bush I'm talking about is under that. Mine have split and are generally stuffed on both sides at the front. So yeah if you've fitted coilovers and still have your stock bits around I'd be happy to take it off your hands, am happy to pay postage etc.... PM me if you can help me out. Thanks again peoples!

Yeah that was what I was originally going to do. And will probably still go that option.

Yeah that's sort of what I was thinking. Will be able to get extra hands to help and just use a couple of trolley jacks underneath, with one closer to the transfer case to help stop it tipping. How was it getting the manual back in? Hard to get it into position?

I'm going to be doing the conversion finally while mines off the road. Has anyone who's done it themselves actually done it at home without a hoist. That's my only concern is the weight of the auto. I've done an S13 conversion before and was fortunate to have access to a hoist for that.

Do you have the Front Upper Control arms (I know you said the lowers were bent), if you do are they still in good shape? If so how much posted to 4301? PM me if you can. Thanks!

So have you noticed any difference with the fuel economy?

I've used them on my S1 on the rear, good price (I got them through Japan Parts.com but I think you can get them on Ebay now) and haven't had any issues with them. Easy way to get slotted rear rotors on a S1 without having to machine some DBA's to fit. I'd use them again, infact if I ever need to replace my DBA slotted fronts I'd probaby use the Dixcels.

Don't suppose you still have those upper control arms I pm'd you about?

PM Sent.

Yeah thats the outer lower control arm ball joint (2 bolt one, the inner is a 4 bolt). The link I had in my first post has these for sale. But like I said they're coming out of the UK. If you do find something thats the same locally let us know. Even in Fast they just list the whole control arm not the seperate ball joints. Mine aren't that badly split but getting there. Very loose ball joint though so they're stuffed anyway. I haven't found them anywhere else yet.

Yeah I figured it wouldn't plug in but I had also thought of piggybacking. Also I guess the R32 ecu wouldn't require the mods that the Z32 one does because of the different injector outputs and twin knock sensors and fuel temp sensor etc...