Blue Dynamite

R31's and R30's have pretty different crossmembers from when I last checked. I know this because although they're about the same width, r30's have a much shorter crossmember but make up for it with longer control arms, Where as R31's have much shorter control arms but make up for it with a really long crossmember. I'm at a lack of understanding as to how the crossmembers themselves would be compattible but then again there's only one way to find out. There's also this; Here's a topic someone opened up previously that should be a good read for you. Otherwise I'd just keep this thread open I guess... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=134173

When I started thinking about this I started leaning towards the R34 out of practicallity with being able to afford spare parts and because of the difference in power. But then I started thinking of that old cartoon 'Speed Racer' and I thought this car would best suit that cartoon so I'm going with this oldskool machine.

What color was the Ceffy? Did it have stock alloys?

gahh, spelling... My one and only weakness...! I knew I was a bit shitty at spelling so I got my mum who's a book editor to check it out. I have a habbit of slipping up also because I have dyslexia although sometimes it's pretty cumbersome for me to hide.

Ahh yep, sorry, it was me who made the mistake here. What was that you said about whiteline swaybars? I picked some up recently for $165 for the pair, but the holes on it are a bit big for the swaybar link bolts I've got. The holes in the standard r30 swaybars are about 10mm where as these ones are 15mm for the front and 13mm for the back. Although the other day my friend and I collected some swaybar links from an R31 and there was a gap there also. Hate to do the distracting here but this is a little quiery I've got that I'm sorta procraztinating over.

All that for just over 300rwhp??? You'd be looking at a hell of allot more power than that with an RB26dett in on an rb30 block, especially with that much attention to detail... I honestly doubt I'd know what I'm talking about as much as people like you when it comes to engines and realistic power outputs but shouldn't you be able to get a good 300rwhp out of a stock rb26dett after changing a few things like the turbos and the boost level etc? I'm looking at using an rb20det redtop NICS engine in my mr30 skyline and we expect about an approximate 150rwhp straight up out of that and the engine is costing me about $500 total with other gear like the radiator, exhaust down to the catback minus the g/b. But I guess knowing someone who knows their shit is also a great help when doing this stuff up close. That and sneaking in on cheap deals, -though i should probably be going with a different RB, lol.

I've signed up to that too, I'm a little weary of how the website works but I think I'm getting the hang of it now. Thanks for that link dude. I'm just about going mad I need work that badly. Also, the thought of actually getting a salary is really enthralling.

I have applied for one of the positions Howie posted about. Thanks you guys! I've been running around handing out resumaes and collecting job applications. Unfortunately most places have already done their hiring for these christmas holidays but I think I have a chance of getting some work, at least in town. I'm going back to town to hand out some more resumaes tommorrow. Cheers for the responses people! Rick.

I know some people that locked the rear end of their MR30 and they don't have any problems with it. It should be fine provided your cv's aren't up the shitter. For your money I'm told a locker is the best bang for your buck. couple sidenotes; Replace the bushes allround with poly-uraphane ones. Don't let off the throttle in the middle of slides, you'll just spinout. When driving, you're either sideways and it's on, or you're not and it's off. of course, if you're allot less inclined to go sideways then buying an LSD probably isn't worth it in the first place. locker = cheaper, especially for track drifting.

Thanks for all the responses people. Yo Skippy. I realise that I would be giving up basically all of my weekends (i.e. partys, events sacfraficing that sort of thing) and on my coverletters I've also offered to work for free for a couple days (that goes for weekends) just to show what kind of worker I am. The ONLY consolation I would have with that in the longterm is with a drift night. I am no slacker, come on and try me out! I'll work for free for an entire weekend (3days - Friday, Saturday and Sunday -8hours for each day) and you can dismiss me at the end of it for good, even if you don't think I'm a slacker. So long as you let me use you as a reference and allow me some experience seeing as I've never done this work before and am really keen to. Rick.

Heya peeps, I'm a 19yr old without work who's really into skylines and imports in general. Of course, I'm no where near as encapsulated with them as much as I am with drifting. I really want to support my project out at Mallala and have wanted to drift there ever since I first got my license and drove there to watch the drift. Not that my interests and focuses should have much to do with me being a competant, dependable and overall worth-while worker, but I think by explaining my backround maybe someone will sympathise with my efforts and goals and possibly point me in the direction of some connections. I have been looking for work for a while and cant seem to get any actual responses leaving me to think that maybe it's my resumae or just that I am a guy looking for work in a society dominated by managers who are only hiring females. Excuses and intimidation aside, here I am, open for whatever interview, whatever drug-tests and whatever it takes to be supporting myself and my goals. Initially I was looking for something along the lines of a video store clerk. Actually something I've been wanting to do for some time now. Just to help me to collect my thoughts and pace myself while doing something I believe I'd really enjoy, but there just doesn't seem to be any call for me in that area of workforce it seems. Even though I've handed out so many resumaes. I am good for labour and can move boxes and package shelves. I am great with helping customers and nullifying conflicting situations quick-smart and safely. I am mechanically experienced to an extent. Mainly that of dealing with suspension and steering components. I am not too familiar with engines although can identify and note typical problems. I have worked on farms, and on the process line. I am a friendly person who likes to help people out and makes sure his quota is thouroughly accomplished. I am experienced with computers and can type relatively fast. I am experienced at taking peoples calls. I can even E-mail my proper formal resumae out to someone if they're interested enough. For the record my project is an MR30 skyline with an RB20det engine (redtop NICS dillema) and is a budget project. I would rather complete my project and get some footage of myself drifting with it before I go looking for any sponsorship. I just thought it was worthwhile enough for me to try my luck through these forums, even if someone can just tell me how to improve my approach then that would also be appreciated. Thanks a bunch! Rick.

But is there a clear difference in perfomance between viscious coupling 3.7:1 (from a 300zx-t) and the typical clutch plate R200?- which I reckon I can get cheap enough. I've bought the front brakes now, got two whole front strut units inculding working dampers for $400, which I thought was a fair trade. I have become exceptionally reluctant to trade interstate now considering the first and last time I sent something (just recently) where the packages didn't arrive and am now looking at re-embersing half of what the guy paid to secure myself from legal/harrassment issues, leaving me with a mere $25 on top of what I already paid to have them delivered. (Aus Post) On the other hand, I would be more inclined to deal with something small and cheapish. However since we were talking about a 15/16 master cyl, I noticed one in a 280zx at my local U-pull it wreckers. Would this be compattible with a standard MR30 brake booster? Some 280zx half shafts should be compattible with the standard clutch-type R200 lsd's because they are of the same year as the DR30 lsd units and therefore should carry the same half shafts? I'm probably missing something right? I am just going off of the link below. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html According to the link, 280zx half-shafts were incompattible with the viscious coupling LSD's because they have shorter diameter splines as they were of a different era. But the DR30 is of the 82-84 era, the one before the viscious coupling LSD's were designated with the larger splines for? Shouldn't this at least mean R200 half-shafts from a 280zx would be compattible with an r200lsd from a dr30 in the rear end of an mr30??? I am so confused and exhausted!!! This has also been a thought in my head for a while now and I really want it adressed.

I've done it with an R31 and same principals should apply. My recollection, you need one or two pins and their slide on plates to stop the pins from falling out. Don't loose em. Should be a case of balancing the bottom of the door on a box at the right height and doing the bolts on the hinge of the door/body up with a spanner, then connecting the wires pods up. If you're doing it by yourself then I reccomend balancing the door on a stable object while in the right position for you to do the hinge bolts up. don't lose the metal slips for the pins either!!! I think that's what it would be like but I haven't done this to a DR30, only MR30's and R31's of the sedan caliber. Hope I didn't forget any crucial facts!!! :S

Ghostrider, You have given me allot of really useful information, thankyou!!! I should probably upgrade all my piston/bores if I'm going to be using these DR30 front discs, i.e. do the master cylinder as well. (I might look into buying yours), I know I'd be using a 7/8's otherwise and upgrading that should be a priority to me. I'll probably keep the brake booster stock for the time being but if I can get a DR30 one for the sake of it (cheap) then I might. (my preference still lies with the MR30 one) *Edit- the project r30 is an 83 I think, hope! I'll check, if not, wouldn't it be just as easy to bend the brake lines just enough to suit the different master cyl? Thanks! Rick.

Yeah, my mum didn't want to dish out for the fire+theft insurance (don't think that covered vandalism anyway). I only have 3rd party insurance.

The only problem I can see with this modifycation is that; for someone learning to drift and with a daily car that could be a bit of a death sentence. an RB20det in an R31 should be profficient to drift with, and still probably a bit much for the street for a beginner (mainly if you're a hoon).

Do you have the rear wishbones for the rear discs? If so how much are you looking at for the parts? If you're in Adelaide I might buy them off you tommorrow. Otherwise I'm looking at $500 for a pair of front struts and $300 for a pair of rear ones, includes dampers, control arms - absolutely whole units. How much would you be wanting?

I'll be hitting up a wreckers. I'm using this an exuse to borrow some money off my parents so I can do it myself and then buy other shit for my project on the side. (which thankfully wasn't targeted, althought the front windscreen is already cracked on that car) Maybe I should get two windscreens while I'm there, one for my norm car and one for my project. f**kit I'll prolly do that, though I wont be left with too much money remaining to get the other shit I'm after. I really need a house with a garage, just another excuse to move out after I sort my project car. I really can't stand disrespectful people like this. It really is a satisfying to scare people shitless after they do things like this. It's too bad I couldn't see the f**kers. I think they must've had a get away car come to think of it. I remember hearing something take off abruptly.

I've heard this too, I'm looking at whole strut units actually- come with control arms. While I'm asking, are the control arms the same? (will bushes swap over). Are the struts themselves the same height? Do they offer any different offset with their steering arms? -If not will 280zx steering arms swap onto mr30's? I've heard they add an extra 2-3degrees of camber to HR31's. Would this be similar with MR30's?

Yeah, I've sourced a set, I just need to fund the money, but that is going to prove difficult now considering my car was bricked and since I don't have a job fundage might take longer than I want.

Ya, what also sucks is that my insurance wont cover it. It's only 3rd party. I wish I had a garage. Flinders park.

As the title says, my car just got bricked. It's an MR30 skyline sedan. I heard a wierd sound while I was sitting at my computer, so I went to go outside and have a look and heard a smash. When I opened the door I heard a shuffeling and I couldn't work out what was going on. The police came around but chances are I reckon they wont be able to do anything about this. I don't really have many enemies so it sorta rules that out as a possible reason. I think. The most anyone has ever really done before is slashed one of my tires, I reckon it's probably the same person. I hate this, if someone has a problem with me then they should just confront me instead of being a coward about it and striking when my back is turned. The reason why I think this is specific is because my tire was slashed and it has been slashed before. On the otherhand, the pizza bar up the road got its window smashed like 10mins or whatever before mine got done so maybe this is random, or maybe a couple of guys are going around trying to dishout their own grade of retribution for small things that probably aren't even worth thinking about. This sucks.

Hi peeps, I'm considering purchasing some DR30 front and rear brakes for my project MR30 that is anticipating an RB20det engine transplant. How big are the DR30 front and rear brakes in comparrisson with MR30 ones and how much of a difference do they make? On another note, how strong is an R200 longnose LSD? Are they the sort of diffs to withstand extreme punnishment through many drift events? Because I'm looking at getting one for drifting competatively and want to be certain it'll deal with what I've got to dish out through it. I don't want to be paying $700-1000 a year (or whatever it is) to rebuild it. At that price, rebuilding the thing once every two years of drift-comp thrashing is what I'd be looking at as acceptable for my budget. So what's the verdict? Cheers, Rick.

The ironic part about this is that all these illegal modyficatsion they're defecting the later model skylines on are rather harmless modifycations to be having in the first place. All modern cars are dangerous enough as they are and any performance enhancements shouldn't really be regarded any differently in the ways of street useage. couple exceptions. lockers, possibly hydrollic handbrakes, and other random shit that drastically changes the versatility of your car as a daily get-around.

So you're not interested in finding an R30 itself but rather the gear required to make it turbo? About the turbo gear, 280zx-t stuff can do but the turbo is a shitty one so you'd have to get an R33 one or something. That stuff is sorta rare anyways. N/A You'd be better off putting an RB30 into it instead, that should make an MR30 pretty fast. (lightness factor). / Or you could do the L28 idea. Turbo Otherwise I'd just look into buying an RB20det second hand or sometihng and putting that into it. As far as R30's are concerned in Adelaide, there aren't too many good ones for sale unfortunately.