Blue Dynamite

No probs... I'll just jump into my mates A15 datsun 120y and I wont have a problem catching up to that stupid commy. The Lj's fast for what it is. Gotta remember that thing will climb just about any mountain. And when you see him doing donuts in the wet carpark in 2wd aided by the locker and get into your R32 to chase after him, he'll already be up that big hill you couldn't get up unless you had a motorbike and took a mad runup. From which point there is no guarrantee you will return from those thundery clouds.

This sucks. They're actually starting to cut down in the good areas. The Holy Grounds. Makes me think twice about going for my drive into the hills now. The most probable reason for using cameras is that I doubt most cops are able to keep up the decent GTR, WRX and bike riders/drivers in the hills. With the cameras there's no escape. And with them randomly hidden, who knows if the road you're speeding on has a camera on it. Hence you're allot less likely to even bother speeding in the first place instead of slowing down for cameras in certain spots where you know where they are. An analogy of this is; who can say now that none of the other fun hills roads out there don't have speed cameras on them right now? Next week we could read an article in the paper that describes how they've done another blitz on different hills road already, only telling us afterwards everytime. It seems like a system that's based on fear, the fear that no one can be sure whether any of the roads are camera free or not.

A mate of mine did a U-turn in his 4wd lj50 suzuki jimni somewhere out at paynem and because it's a 2-stroke engine it blows allot of smoke. Some old-timer reported his plates to the police saying that he did a burnout up the street. The cops came round to his house after looking for burnout marks (which they couldn't find) and asked him if he was doing burnouts with his car. He told them, do you think it's possible for a 33hp car with wideass 4wd tires like these to do a burnout? They had to give him a caution anyway but it shows how retarded and over-reactive people are getting these days with what they call 'hooning'. Sorta makes you wanna reverse into the old coots driveway and show him what a real burnout is. lol

YEAR: 1982 MODEL: MR30 N/A 2.4L BODY TYPE: Sedan COLOUR: Purplish Silver YEAR: 1984 MODEL: MR30 N/A 2.4L BODY TYPE: Sedan COLOUR: Dark Blue

Hiya peeps, my mate and I are looking for two RB gearbox bellhousings. If you've got a rb manual gearbox bellhousing and you want to sell it then can you send me a PM or just post in this thread? Location: Adelaide Thanks, Rick.

I've heard that too, but I asked a mate who's worked on and with both N47's, N42's and E-series type heads and he reckons it doesn't take much to make them one of the best street heads for L-series dattos out there. Allot of that is mere speculation and not actual practice. Once you port it and get rid of that shit it becomes extremely good apparently. You should be able to get one from a later model R30 (1983-84 model). I've got an L28 block with flattop pistons lined up with an N47 head, probably build it in 3-6months, I'll tell ya how it goes then. Should get pretty close to 180-190 Flywheel horsepower after it's ported etc as opposed to the shitty 124FW-HP it's allegadly got atm. Probably wont be doing the cam though.

I thought all L24 blocks came with flat-top pistons stock. I'm probably thinking strictly of MR30's though, but if you're going to go through the trouble of having an engine rebuilt for a grand then you may as well look into getting a 280zx engine/block (one with flat-top pistons) and with an N47 head and get him to rebuild that with efi. neways dats my 2c. Rick.

I've heard about that car actually. Apparently the driver runs a stock engine and has cut springs and that's about it. Also heard he was definitely one of the best out there last time my friend was there that was.

You could go with RNB SUX, that's half tempting actually, don't steal it! lol

What if they can drift well however have worn paint etc.In other words do you mean shitboxes going by not being able to do anything on the track or just not looking bling enough?

Longer runners? I have some L28 turbo manifolds along with the inlet manifolds to suit but they're already promised to a friend. I compared the inlet manifolds with those off an MR30 and they're almost identical. I'm pretty sure either will do for a turbo job although I might be wrong. I heard the L28 turbo manifolds I have are good up to about 350-400 horsepower, they're pretty large. I've heard that few turbo 280zx's were brought into Australia so perhaps getting someone to make some turbo manifolds is a better option. Here is a link to ozdat where a guy turbo'd his 240z: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6303 Rick

I am looking at doing the same conversion into an MR30. Although I'm getting the RB20det from a 240z. All the mods were made for the engine to fit however, now I have to take the same engine and put it into an MR30. I'd like to know how different the proceadure will be from what you're looking at doing. If it's the same then I am really interested in what has to be said about it. Rick.

Ok, I've sent you a Private message over the forums so check your messages. here it is anyways; [email protected]

maaaybe, that sounds fairly early so it might be an exception to what i'm talking about. I'm specifically talking about an rb20det out of a 2door r31, and putting a vg30 turbo on it.

how's the body, paint work and chassis? If you can send me a pic that'd be great.

thanks for the responses so far people. Adriano, well, all I know is that this turbo is considered reasonably large. I think it's the first one you mentioned in the paragraph i'm quoting you on below., because I am pretty certain it is a roller bearing one. (i know it's a VG30 turbo) do you think i would be better off with the R32gts'-t turbo? remembering that this will be on the first rb20det

Yo peeps, im looking at purchasing a 300zx turbo off a friend to put on the first model rb20det (one used in the sports R31) I don't know anything about 300zx's really, but another mate reckons that a 300zx turbo (even though bigger) will give me significantly more usable and less lagy power than the turbo that came with the first RB20 engines. The 300zx turbo is a roller bearing one, (or something like that), it also had the numbers '630', on it (nfi). Also, what sort of things should I look for in guaging its condition? I want to know what other information you can give me concerning this information and regarding 6cyl turbos in general. He also has the second RB20 turbo for sale off an R32 gts-t, I want to know what difference in performance characteristics there are in case that is deemed a better option. When posting in response, please remeber that this turbo will be used on the first of the rb20det engines. Thanks a bunch!

I've had my eye on this car for ages, seeing it advertised in www.carsales.com.au, then ozdat, and now here. It's a pitty you sold it, if your streek no luck kept going for another year or two, I'd have bought this at the drop of a hat! Utterly beautiful masterpiece of a car.

You're in Adelaide are you? Can you give me a roundabouts figure on how much you're selling it for? It's defected to regency ehay? Engines gone from the pics, or just seperated but comes with? I am interested in the whole shell, everything. If you can pm me back with your details that'd be great.

Since this new fast and the Furious movie has come out, political figures are going to look at it and address imports as even more of an issue. Defecting cars is a real cheap shot at minimising hooning imo, because it's indirect and gets those that aren't wreckless in the process.

1.there are the typical 3nuts that hold the top of the strut in. come to think of it, they would probably hold the same diameter but i'll have to check this tommorrow. i have an r30 and an r31 so it'll be a quick check. 2.the stud pattern is the same as on r31 discs i believe, whether or not the r31 discs will slide onto the same axel stub is another matter. GRRRR, still trying to get my hands on a digital snapshot camera so that i can take some pics! i have some spare mr30 struts already seperated so i'll take some pics of them and then some pics of how everything fits together -suspension as a whole, everything already on my car and some pics of the same angle - behind the front-tire of an R31. i think that if i were to use r31 control arms i would definitely have to use an r31 crossmember because r31 control arms are significantly shorter. but then i cant put an L28 in for a future power upgrade without doing a really annoying cut n weld. i'm looking at eventually sorting out about 200hp N/A, but for the time being i'm just interested in sorting out my cars handling and i want it to be extremely good. come to think of it, i dont think my steering really has much freeplay in it at all, nothing noticable at least. i've always felt a bit awkward with r31steering, seems too heavy, though can be good for provocation like that. my r30 skyline has powersteering and it's a bit watered down but i like the 2 rotations to each side steering ratio. have also gained a bit of a nack for feeling through the powersteering under circumstances of provocation with entries, so i'm pretty well happy with my steering at the moment, but i'll probably look into upgrading my steering rack all the same whilst i'm at researching everything else. i also want some positive camber and caster. but i'll get that just from lowering my car and modifying the radius rods and possibly control arms. 3.i think an idea to solve the control arm dillemma in fitting R31 coilover struts would be to do a cut and weld with r30 and r31 control arms, if that is a viable option, then i can add a bit more positive camber at the same time, whilst also allowing for a major brake upgrade. also, i would'nt have to change the crossmember because i could choose my control arm length in doing this. the other alternative seems to be dr30discs + on Mr30 struts-assuming that the discs and calipers will match up outright, and DR30 coilovers. of course, if i can do a straight up R32 disc/caliper upgrade on my current struts then i'll just have that and DR30 coilovers.-assuming that the dr30 coilovers will fit onto mr30 struts. though i really wouldnt be surprised if r32 discs didnt fit onto mr30 axelstubs, if this is the case, then i'll probably have to look into the R31 idea. all in all thanks for the help so far, this has been somewhat enlightening. if you have anymore idea's please dont hesitate to tell them to me. everything so far has been very useful to know. thanks. B)

i remember doing that back when i was driving my 120y, had a van driver go about 1 & 1/2 carlengths from me. then i slowed down to 45, he was in a rush, there was traffic, and so i gunned it just enough for him not to get in and overtake me. then he started following me at less than a meter . man it was dodgy. tapped the brakes a bit but cbf prangning it. van drivers are reputable for that kind of shit.

you can get them off the TI mr30 skylines i think. they're not too different from the N47heads. only potential wise i think. i atleast know you can get N47 heads off mr30skylines because i did.

my car: 1982 MR30 skyline L24 engine: current 124hp at the flywheel. standard MR30 brakes. no steering upgrades as yet. car is stock as a rock. Weighs a good 1150kg's over the next year i want to upgrade my cars front brakes at the very least. i dont care for abs, and am considering a disc upgrade for the rear probably r30hatchback discs as they will be compatible straight up. -that is unless r31 discs are significantly better. but my real problem is that i dont know how i can upgrade my front brakes. idea no.1 (1)*an idea i have at the moment is to buy some r32 discbrakes along with their calipers and strut casings. cut the strut casings off a little after the axel stubs and weld the rest of the top of the strut casings off an mr30 onto the axel stub.-getting the right heights for mr30 struts. then hope to god that my tires dont stick out and rub against the quaterpanels as i steer. what are your thoughts on this? any quotes on a pair of bare struts, disc brakes and calipers for the front of an r32/33? idea no.2 (2)*i look into the sports model r30(DR30) and see whether the brakes used on these are much better. my only thoughts on this is that in order to get them, my only chance would be through highly expensive wreckers. the plus about having them would be that they should be straight up compattable. i.e. no cut and weld work. i dont think i've ever seen an advertisement for someone privately wrecking a dr30 skyline. this would be an excellent idea but i think that it might prove a bit too expensive and not as good for money as the r32/33 brake upgrade idea. keep in mind that ideas on compatability to do with suspension are also highly appreciated. i'm looking for the best and most cheapest way to go about doing this because i know it's gonna cost me a shitload anyway.