75coupe

oh and the new head is missing a few of the bolts...

do they come up shiny new with this method???

what about the bolts to go with them??? I want pretty new bolts to go with the pretty new undistorted washers...

I found WD40 will take off black sticky sikaflex...it seems to dissolve it somehow... I dont know if that will help at on window sealant though...

yep thats what Im going to do, I'll leave it for the tuner to see what he thinks is best, when it finally gets there... I'll leave him also with the decision of plumb back bov or atmo as well.. its all the same pipe that will need modding...

A sparky was telling me he had done a few installs of solar panels for keeping batteries charged for cars that are only used on the occasional sunday...

specs here... http://translate.google.com.au/translate?h...fari%26rls%3Den

on the HKS website it still says it comes as a kit, but I think the Kai version is now using the twin scroll version... slight power increase going by what the translated HKs page says... I have a used HKS2835pros turbo for sale with exhaust flange if your interested

Im using a front facing plenum, and having to either modify the FMIC pipe or run a filter... filter sounds easier... but annoying...

see the standard AAC piping setup, the yellow line shows the hose Im speaking of...

Well I havnt run the engine with the new setup as yet, but the last thing I have to do while waiting on an adapter for the oil & coolant lines to the turbo is to plumb the AAC value hoses... thats why this thread is timely.. so now I have the option I guess of welding in a pipe fitting into the FMIC piping or running a small air filter on the AAC valve...

well the stock AAC valve has a line plumbed in before the throttle body, so were trying to set it up to be the same as the std system... if its just extra air its letting in for idle control then it makes sense that instead of plumbing the air line in a small air filter could be used as an alternative... sounds like it would work, since its not sensing air pressure, its just letting in filtered air...

wow what timing, Im just installing a RIPs plenum on my rb25, and am at the stage of plumbing in the AAC vacuum hose to in front of the throttle body... theres not much room under a forward facing plenum once all of the AAC plumbing is under there... Are you saying youve seen just a small air filter on the aac rather than being plumb into the piping? that would be easier but how would that work I thought it needed the air pressure before the throttle.

+1 for a really bright colour...

the word coilover refers to the spring and strut assembly, since the coil/spring fits over the strut/shock... coilover does not automatically mean its adjustable...

so if you were after more responsive midrange power the 3.5" exhaust is too large, is that what people are saying? I was told by a tuner that a 2.5" custom made exhaust would be better than my 3.5" hks, this is what I was told when I told him I wanted to get a tune done for a HKS2835 with supporting mods... I did say I was after good midrange response, and that I was not interested in ultimate peak power. I didnt know wheather to trust him or not? this is on a 33gtst

that glassylite stuff is cheaper to buy off their website direct than through ebay... $29.95 deiivered in Aust... if Ive read it right...

That ALUBRITE is a pretty harsh acid, Ive used it to clean the outside of the head, the cross over pipe and stuff like that. ALUBRITE will burn your hands if you dont wear gloves its that strong, it will eat the duco as well and anything else that gets in its way... Ive used it in conjunction with a toothbrush to clean all sorts of things... it'll clean brake dust build up off rims, but it will also scar the paint and leave shiny alloy dull, I havnt tried it on powdercoat...

I recently did this to my thermostat housing, I just got a alloy welder to weld it back on after I had cut the tube bit off the dome housing part and gave it an angle, it is hard to weld though apparently, getting a weld without inclusions is pretty hard, the welder had to clean, clean and clean it and ended up doing it twice because of porosity problems... I should of taken a photo, make sure you either get them to put a bead of weld around the hose outlet so there is something to help hold the hose on or use the original end bit... I actually ended up makging it a tad shorter as well to make it fit nice, the rad hose has a tiny bit of length to give. do a search for RIPS plenum for RB25 they use to include a modified thermo housing as part of the kit...

oh please share this "suspension settup' because Ive found nangkangs are a really crappy tyre for grip... if its just down to suspension then I want to know please...

Ive drilled out wheel stud before and it wasnt a mess, yeah you replace the stud but no damage to the wheel at all.. admitedly it wasnt going to come off any other way we tried so it was a last resort...

bugger they dont list V36 http://www.niceproducts.com.au/catalogues/wheel/wheel.php

nice products.... they have a great range of replacements, you would need to check out their parts catalogue to match the stud thread, pitch. length and collar size and possible head shape

should be as easy as any other car... knock it out it will drop out behind there is usually a cutaway behind the hub where you can slot the old stud out and slide the new one in, use a nut on it to pull it through... Doh, I only have r33 studs... I just assumed everyone has a 33

by chance is it an alloy nut? you need to ask yourself why wont it come off cross threaded or broken nut, sounds like the stud will be damaged anyways