GTRNUR

Technically all alloy bull bars are illegal on toyota's etc for the same reason. Factory plastic bumpers on modern cars are a little more forgiving than solid alloy or steel. Yet i've never seen a 4wd defected because it had an aftermarket bull bar on it. If its not OEM its technically not legal to fit it unless you get an engineer to over-rule it. Yes that means everything from exhaust systems to brake rotors. Even if its ADR approved, if its not OEM factory fitted (or a factory optional) equipment its not legal unless approved by an engineer. ADR just makes it easier to get the engineering approvals done.

I guess the people that wrote that ruling had never driven a 33 gtr before. Took me weeks before I realised the spoiler wasnt tailgating me...

Yes the Zeta III's do look nice. Im sitting on the edge of getting buckets and having to un-bolt them every time i need to get into the back of the car, or keeping reclinables of some sort.

I was looking at the Bride recliners the other day too. Very nice. Id really like to get a seat in them before shelling out for something i might not like though. I think R34 seats are the way to go, because they hold their value and if i dont like them i can move them on easily enough. Well ive decided to stick with the old seats for a while till the car is driving again. Ive made much stronger seat mounts this time because last time I was out street tuning the car it tore the drivers seat spot welds from the floor in 3rd gear and I ended up in the back seat. For those that PM'd me and wanted to see a pic of what Ive built.. here is the chassis nearly finished. Specs are that its a 1966 VW chassis base, very modified and re-enforced Wheel base, wheel track, steering angles etc are all identical to a Porsche 1992 968 Alignments of camber, caster, front and rear toe are all adjustable, and are set to a track tune for a 911, being a rear engined car. 1992 Porsche 968 front A-arm's, spindles and 4 spot porsche/brembo brakes 1992 Porsche 968 alloy trailing arms with 4 spot porsche/brembo brakes 1986 Porsche 911 turbo 4 speed, rebuilt by albins. Handles over 750hp, but it will be seeing about 500 max. Hydraulic clutch conversion Custom whiteline anti roll bars Custom valved Tein super streets, (modified honda civic) Porsche 924 rack and pinion steering conversion Hargett racing short shifter Porsche 996 Cup3 18x8 and 18x10's with RE55 semi slicks Aiming for about 850kg dry weight with a roll cage. Was engineered and approved 2 weeks ago. 100% road legal modifications. 14 modification codes in all. The silver vw body in my signature will be on it in about 2 months, and the engine in about 2 months after that. Engine parts are still being fabricated at the moment. Yes I am crazy but building this in my garage has kept me out of a padded cell. Cheers, Ian

That the reason right there. Its not as big a deal in a 2wd skyline (althoough it does take some effort), a gtr is a whole diferent situation. It makes looking at short rod stroker engines like the Tomei 2.8 kit and what Mark99 did with a 2.9lt in an RB26 block worth investigating.

Tomei make a 2mm head gasket with an 87mm bore. Nengun or high octane perhaps?

I thought the spacer would have been bored to the same size as the cylinder bores, and then the sleaves would be pressed into the spacer AND the block, holding the two together? I guess the sleaves would have to be decked to the same height as the spacer block while the spacer is torqued to the same spec it would be with a head on it, when there is a gasket under it. There are a lot of good reasons to consider going down spaced block path which i sure we dont need to debate here.

Was just looking at that same pic not long ago. Rb30 or RB31 race engines. Billet crank etc... very pretty!

Hi all, Im investigating stroker engine recipie's. How does the spacer block get attached to the top of the rb26 block? I presume there is some drilling and bolting down of additional studs to locate the plate while it and the bores's are bored out for the sleve's? Last question... How is the spacer sealed to the top of the block so there is no water or oil leaks? is the spacer block o-ring'd around ther water galleries and perhaps using a copper gasket around the oil galleries... or do they block oil all together and run external oil lines? Or perhaps part or all of the above? Just curious.. Cheers, Ian

I'll take the boot lock if sida102 loses interest. Please PM me if its available still

No mention of how thick the discs are.. Can you measure them with a vernier caliper?

I just found this table explaining the RR581's and all other GTR turbo's... http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm What can you tell us about the steel wheeled gtr turbo's, are they a high-flow R32/R33 BB core?

I'll take them. Check your PM for my address etc.

Sex C! Free bump... because its the colour I want. Tough call.. this or a 993 porsche.

Tried pressurising? So you pumped it up to 5lb, watched your boost gauge. Stopped pumping it up and it held pressure for quite some time? Maf sensor. Get some CO contact cleaner and spray the sensor wire and clean out the inside of the sensor.

Eliminate the leaks first. You might well find a leak on the vacuum side of the throttle body... there's the idle problem. If its sucking air from somewhere thats bypassing the MAF sensor the engine cant fuel the engine properly. Also the IAC settings in the ecu wont know how to make it idle stably as the maf readings arent consistent for the engine speed.

You wont damage anything at 15psi, but 5psi will be fine. This is done with the ignition off (engine not running). 5PSI is plenty to be able to hear the leak. If you dont have access to an air compressor with an air pressure regulator, use a co2 or argon welder gas bottle with a regulator set to 5psi instead. Despite having great quality silicon hose and good bolt on hose clamps i still found leaks when i pressure tested my car. Other non obvious area's leaks can happen is the clutch booster and brake booster, and the one way valves can fail that feed them.

Hi all, I need to fix a split in my series 3 GTR front lip. I've scored some plastic from a stuffed front lip that will allow me to plastic weld with compatible plastic, but i've never done this before. What are the tools and the technique to get a good result? I'll be having the lip and front bar re-painted as well, so any suggestions with surface preporation will be apprecaited. The lip was painted with incompatible paint last time and its flaking off and looks like crap now. Frankly I dont 100% trust the panel beaters in Cairns so i'd like to go and talk to them actually knowing a little bit about what I want done and whats involved with making the paint stick properly.. Cheers, Ian

Pressure test your intake system. Your problems sound like a boost leak. Block the pipe on the intercooler in-side from the turbo, and use an air compressor to inflate your intake to about 5psi. Put the air in via the vacuum line connection to your fuel pressure regulator. You will hear the leaks. Clean your maf sensor too.

+1 I'd like to know that too.

Truth be told the seats are for my vw. I like the GTR seats a lot though so i figured I'd either stick with what I know i like and get a pair for the vw, or i'd go something light weight, carbon fibre/kevlar/fiberglass or whatever. They have to be strong though too, and ADR approved. The vw is being rebuilt as a motorkarna drag and car, so I need to keep the weight down where possible as there is a fair amount of additional steel re-enforcing in the chassis now. I dont care about the brand name and they would be covered anyway. Im not into showing off brands. Let the companies pay for their own advertising. I've been looking at sparco's too. They seem decent enough. DLOOOK, how wide is your ass that they are too small for you? Or perhaps what size chicks's ass would be a good fit to the seat?

Hi Everyone, Im considering a pair of bride seats but want to know how the compare to the R33 GTR factory seats. Sure the bride's are lighter, but how do they compare as far as comefort goes... especially when going for a long drive of a few hours. Also how do they compare as a seat to hold you in place when your cornering hard? I've never seen a bride seat up close so i have no idea what the quality is like either. Are they as well made as a factory seat? Pic of the seats i am considering is attached. Cheers, Ian

I'll take the radiator plate if its not already gone. PM me some bank details and i'll do a direct deposit and send you a shipping address. Cheers, Ian

Downside to Switzerland is they banned all kinds of motorsport since an F1 crash back in the 50's or 60's that killed 80 people or something. Im sure that they have something, but it wont be big. A long time ago i had an idea for an addition to a car alarm that gives people that mess with your car an electric shock. Its a simple circuit that could be enabled when the central locking has locked all the doors. It would work when the car is stationary, or if your at the lights, and would at the very least give you a few seconds to drive off while a would be attacker is left wondering what just shocked the hell out of them. I might put this on my to-design list again...

+1 Is there a place to move to that isnt full of wankers and criminals? I want to go there...