bobba

Hey mate, sorry I want to get rid of it as a whole. Bobby.l

Ok guys still need cash! Price dropped to $375 firm to get rid of them. It's really a steal and not what I was wanting but my loss is your gain!

I just got an EPA notice on my 32, apparently the cop reported me for having open air BOV! I don't have that and I never have had it. Any way to fight it? Or do I have to pay for my innocence. The only place I can get the cert is across town on a work day and costs 80 bucks. Hardly fair.

Here's a pic from when I installed it (after this I realised the amps wouldn't fit on top, so I took them off and they are tied on in front of the box).

Hi guys, I need cash! So I'm putting up for sale my car sound system. It's only 2 years old, and I've seriously hardly ever pumped it, I was scared of going deaf! It consists of: 3 x 12" JBL Grand Touring 300WRMS Subs (300 real watts - not that pmpo shit - I believe they are 1000w pmpo max) 3 x Response Precision 2x150WRMS Amps (again, real power) 1 x 1 Farad Capacitor Custom box to suit R32 Skyline (it jjuusstt fits) In all an awesome brain shaking system, you're welcome to hear it in my car before buying. The box is a bit tacky with the carpet not stuck on very well but I'm sure you can fix it. The other parts are in excellent condition. Asking $500 firm. It cost over $1500 new! What a bargain. Call me (Bobby) on 0412-501-472 if you're interested. Located in Eastern Melbourne... Obviously no shipping. Thanks!

I take USANA Essentials - they have made the world of difference to my tiredness and feeling crap throughout the day. Well worth the money.

Lol I know the feeling!

Hey mate, the grease could have come from another car, but also there is greasy silicone crap inside the four bushes that are where the rear cradle joins to the car. When one of mine went it spat it all under the car. Total pain in the arse to change though, unfortunately.

The most common occurrence for me is shitty 5 litre commodore's revving their nuts off next to me at the lights and looking all smug. Running 1 bar I just can't help myself, I give them the biggest hiding and then I slow down and blow huge raspberries at them. They go wildly insane like apes in a cage.

Turns out the gearset was frigged, they rebuilt it again using the gearset from the original box I sold them for $200, and now it's crunching into 2nd with new synchro's... long story short they've rebuilt it 4 times and are fed up, and are now looking to buy another box and rebuild it for me. Lucky it's all under warranty!

FML, just spent $800 on a full reco and it still sounds the same! Could it be anything else? It's silent with the clutch pushed in, loud as shit with it out whether I'm stopped or not

Hey people, I've spent almost my last money putting a secondhand gearbox in my r32 gtst, only to find the input shaft bearing sounds like a supercharger. The gearbox is really good and changes smoothly apart from this problem. Is ANYBODY in Melbourne able to change the bearing for cheap for me? Or know of a place that would do it for cheap? Im pretty sure I can take the gearbox out myself to save money... Anyone? Thanks in advance Bobby.

Hey guys, I had a reco gearbox put in my car 18 months ago, I've done about 20,000k's and 2nd gear synchro has shat itself! The box has always seemed 'clicky' into gears, not grind but a kind of TOCK noise changing, especially when cold, since i got it put in. Have they given me a dud? They say it's out of warranty now so I have to fork out again! Could I really have done that changing into 2nd quickly every now and then in that little k's? I'm scared to get this box fixed in case it does it again... any advice? Thanks! Bobby.

Hi guys, I have a GTR diff in my R32 GTS-t. I'm using the GTR driveshafts and hubs, etc, with the GTS-t's rear diff cover and yoke / tail shaft. I've searched and searched for this problem but I can't find any specific info So - Here's the problem. There is about 1cm rotational slack in the diff at the yoke/tailshaft, before it starts moving the wheels. The LSD centre is tight as, so are the drive shafts etc. The slack is inside the diff. Putting the GTS-t yoke on, I can't torque it up. Once it goes past 90 or so torque-value-whatever's, it goes tight! I can no longer turn it with my hands. Apparently the torque should be at 130ish... so my question is - is the yoke torque essential to have correct preload / backlash / whatever makes the diff 'tight'?? Or is is just that my GTR diff is shagged and I should be looking at fixing / replacing it? - Also, WHY is it going tight? The GTR yoke has no problem - are they different lengths where they go in the diff etc? Thanks in advance for any replies Bobby.

Hi guys, I want my air con to work properly - I need the following parts. 1. The intake temp sensor? The one up under the dash above the glove box. For those that know, it's the 3rd sensor in the air con diag "air intake > (before evaporator temp)" 2. The mode door actuator. The one that changes from feet to face to screen. I really want these ... If anyone can help I'll be really thankful! Bobby.