SLVR32GTR

Hey guys, I will be away for work until Thursday, but i would appreciate if you could all leave your comments/ideas on why my gtr seems down on power! Thanks Tony

After thinking about it at lunch, the only thing i could come up with, with respect to the low power, is that the head isnt breathing enough. It couldnt be an air or fuel issue as the engine is seeing 21psi and there is enough fuel to balance the AFR's, (Obviously you need more fuel and the associated air to make more power) so i think maybe the cam gear settings arent at optimum. I never checked them after i got it tuned the first time, but that would explain the drop off of power at the top end. I think the missing power may just be the result of un-tuned cam gears or due to the lack of after market cams. Would this be the culprite?? Cheers Tony

ahh ok Z32's gotcha. The fouling happened before the retune, i was just thinking maybe the spark wasnt as strong, resulting in less power due to less efficient burning of the fuel or something.

Hey Beer Baron, So are the VG30 afm's the same diameter as the RB26 items? That would be handy as i wasnt too keen on changing the original pipework. I understand that this would help to improve the AFR's, but do you think that this would find any of the power that seems to be missing?? Also, before taking it to matty, i went for a cruise with some mate, and while we were sitting there idling, the car seemed to be running super rich and fouled the plugs a bit. As we drove off the car coughed and spluttered for about 1 minute or so afterwards. Would this imply that the plugs are no longer working at optimum?? They are PFR7B's and are only about 3 months old at most. Cheers Tony

Thanks LatinR33, it took a good 6 months to find the GTR i bought, as there was a lot of junk out there. It had a genuine 67,000k's on it when i got it, as can be determined by the condition of the engine and interior parts that we examined carefully. All of the fitting of the performance parts was carried out by myself with the help of some mechanic mates and the use of a hoist. Although it was a b*tch to work on in the cramped engine bay, i really enjoyed the hands on and knowing that i had done it myself. Cheers Tony

Woops, it is a 3 1/2 inch Trust Cat back exhaust, changed in first post. It seems like a very open exhaust with a straight through muffler design. I was thinking of upgrading to 2 x rb25 afms, but i was under the impression that this wont actually increase power as the air flow may be reading the same points, but it is not actually restricting the flow. We had it set up for the best AFR's on top boost, and it resulted in slightly richer runs in the lower boost settings (as they used the same load points.)

I was thinking along the lines of: Maybe there is a small leak in the intake piping, which would sort of explain irregular afr's, especially if the leak is affected by heat. The air flow meters are maxxed out, but im not sure if this would actually affect power output as i dont think they would be a restriction. Maybe fuel delivery is still an issue? Stock regulator is playing up or something? One thing i forgot to mention also, is that before we direct wired the pump, it was running at 12.3volts at idle, but under boost, it was reducing down to 10.55volts. More details can be found in the RB26 turbo upgrade thread here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...93880&st=40

Hey guys, I had my car put on the dyno yesterday at PITS and after a good 5hrs, the car didnt make anymore power than when i drove it in. There was some really weird things happening and i am racking my brains to think what the problem could be. First of all i will give you some specs of what the car is running: Turbos and Exhaust HKS GT-SS Turbos Port matched and Flowed Manifolds HKS Style Split Dump Pipes Custom CES Front Pipes (3 ½inch Collector) Catco Metal Cat Trust 3 ½ inch cat back exhaust Intake and Cooling De-meshed standard AFM’s PWR Intercooler Oil Cooler and Remote Filter Kit Fuel System Sard 700cc Injectors Bosch 044 fuel pump adapted in tank. (now direct wired) Engine & Drivetrain OS Giken Cam Gears Gates Timing Belt Standard internals HKS GD Pro Twin Plate Clutch Electronics Apexi Power FC Turbosmart EBoost2 Boost Controller. The car made a maximum of 270awkw at 21psi of boost (which is what it made before bringing it in). To me that boost level seems way too high for the power level that i put out. According to the rb26 turbo upgrade thread, people running similar mods (with GT-SS's) are more around the 310kw mark at the same or lower boost levels. Another thing that was odd, was that the afr's were differing greatly at the same load points. ie, we would do the low load tuning, get the afrs nicely around the 14.7 mark, come back later and they would be at either the 15.2 mark or 13.8. Both Matty and I were stumped and he said that he had never seen that before using a power fc. The fuel pump also started making some weird noises later in the day, which we had put down to heat since the car had been running for so long. Matt said that the problems may be due to the charcoal canister purging unusually, and to try unplugging it and crosschecking with my tech edge to see if it fixes it. So after that long explanation, my questions are: Why does the car seem low on power for the amount of boost being pushed through it, What could cause such fluctuations in the AFR's, What could be done to gain the power that the car seems to be down on (ie would poncams make much of a difference?) Thanks for reading guys! Tony PS. Top points to Matty for being such a good sport about it!! He really knows his stuff! Dyno graph is from the original tune up, but looks pretty much the same as after we had finished.

Hi everyone, I thought i would give an update to my situation since my other thread was closed regarding the workshop that wrecked my car. (PM me for the name) As mentioned in previous posts, my gearbox died thanks to a lack of oil put in it when the clutch was changed by the same dodgy place that thinks they can tune. I took the car to Hart Transmissions (who are exellent by the way) and they really looked after me and wrote me up a report on the causes of the failure. On Thursday the car will be going into PITS to have Matt Spry tune the car properly and have it running the way it should be. I will hopefully get a report written up on his findings of the existing (sh*t house) tune and use it as further evidence when the court hearing is advised. After dealing with the Office of Fair Trading, nothing came about, and it is now up to me to take them to Small Claims. I have been getting reports done on issues that were a direct result of the workshop in question and i am hoping to make an example of this dodgy workshop that thinks they can charge through the roof for service that is well below average!

I have a set of the GT-SS's on my GTR. They are absolutely awesome!! The power is almost instant, and when it comes on, its bloody scary, hehe. They actually come on at about the same as the stocko's if not quicker due to the ball bearing ( more likely to do with my manifolds which i port matched and flowed, and the split dumps) cores and newer more efficient design. On a crap tune they are putting out 270kw at all four on 21psi of boost, but after matty spry retunes it on tuesday, it should be more like 310kw at the wheels. As it is now though, on a damp on ramp to the M1 the other night, it managed to have all 4 spinning in 3rd which was scary as hell, hahah. It did track very straight though thanks to the 4wd.

PM sent

Yeah mate, have it all ready to go.

I was wanting to swap some of the parts i have for a gtr gearbox, i dont actually have one for sale. This is no longer the case anymore as i have had the damaged shafts replaced and im using my original gearbox anyway.

Yes, it seems ridiculous to me as well, as i could have pushed the same figure without spending all my cash on my goodies. I have attached the dyno graph that also displays boost levels. I talked to fair trading, and it looks like i will be taking the matter to the small claims tribunal, hence why i need to get all my evidence together. With regards to court being more time and money. Yes it will take up more of my time and cost me application fees ($84) which is all claimed back if i win. I just dont want to let them get away with this for the simple fact that i paid them over $3,000 and my car is still sitting in the garage undrivable.

Hey guys, Everything about my car has gone pear shaped with regards to the work that the certain workshop performed. I need to get a report done on the tune by a proper tuner, which will highlight all of the concerned problems. My big question is, will it be possible for a tuner to do a proper report on the leanout with just the dyno graphs and power fc maps of the car?? The reason i ask is because the gearbox is cactus and it wont be rushed getting fixed. The reason i need the reports is because it is more than likely going to escalate into a court battle, and it is very hard for them to argue against written hard evidence. Thanks guys.

I think that is spot on and thats what i picked up on as well. To ensure my arguement is water tight, i am going to take it to another tuner and get them to put fuel pressure gauges on the car and give me a full report on what really is the problem (absent minded "tuner"). Thanks for your help guys and i trust that you have linked this thread with my original thread regarding my bill for all the "work" done to my car.

The car is definitely not going back to the original "tuner" and will be taken to matt spry on the goldy for the fix up. The original place pretty much treated me like a dumb sh*t from the word go and gave me the most bullsh*t excuses for problems. The tune definitely does not look like 6.75hrs work.

I dont see how it could be hitting 100% duty, i have had the peak hold function on the injectors and they dont even hit over 60% from memory with the 700cc injectors. Sorry not too familiar with the power fc yet, what are the injector tables and the airflow table? I dont have datalogit by the way, i just copied the maps from the commander.

Havent had a chance to check the cam gears yet as my car is out having the gearbox stripped at the moment. I havent touched them since they were "tuned" though. I have attached my injector and ignition maps as well as a map trace that i did just going for a quick drive to get fuel one day. Thanks for your help guys!

Yeah, Thats what i thought. The car is tuned way too rich and the sudden jump in afr's is not a trait of a lean out. As Sydneykid has explained to me, the fuel requirements of the engine near redline are pretty much linear with respect to rpm. This would be evident in a consistent increase in afr, not a sudden jump as portrayed here. My thoughts are that they were running short on time and decided that i will have to come back and pay again for them to do the proper tune that they should have done the first time! Thanks for your replies guys.

Hey guys, I recently got my car tuned and the figures that came back were dissapointing to say the least. To give you some back ground on my situation, i had the car tuned for midrange power and did not focus on top end, so the peak power is obviously going to be down on a car with a peak power tune. The car is a 32 GTR and contains the following goodies: Hardware: HKS GT-SS Turbos Port Match Manifolds HKS Split dumps Custom Front pipes (60mm pipes into a 3 1/2in collector) Catco metal cat with 5in body and 3 1/2in pipes Trust Cat back (3 1/2in) PWR Intercooler Pod Filters OS Cam Gears Fuel Delivery: 700cc Injectors Bosch 044 pump adapted in tank Electronic: Apexi Power FC EBoost2 Boost controller I was told that the lean out was due to poor pump flow, but i am very sceptical considering the standard fuel delivery components are still good at 270awkw (although running at 100%). I want to get the opinion of my fellow SAU'ers as to why this lean out would occur. I have my theories but i will keep them to myself for now and see what comes up. The opinions of tuners or people with tuning experience would be greatly appreciated also! Thanks Guys! NOTE: Also note that the three different graphs represent the three different boost settings within the Eboost2. SP3 is the graph in question.

NEW PARTS NOW AVAILABLE Come on Guys, need this stuff gone, had a run in with a workshop who have broken my gearbox, so need a new one!! No reasonable offers refused!

After consulting multiple gearbox and transmission specialists, it looks like a bearing failure and gear damage (evident by the loud high pitched whining noise). It happened all of a sudden while cruising on the highway and according to the specialists, shouldnt have just let go. They reckon that it is from running on low oil. Looks like i will have to get the boxed stripped (which will also strip me any money for the next year!) and get a report written up on the causes. Then its off to the "performance" shop that changed out my clutch to see what they have to say about the matter. Thanks for your help guys.

Factory water pump from nissan should be $93.50 Timing belt: i got a gates belt for $88, but i believe the nissan ones are about $90-$110. So should be $203.50 at most i would imagine.

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