siksII

that sounds nasty, parramatta road is definetly an obvious place NOT to speed, so i wonder if the driver was drunk or something. Did u see it happen? Were the people involved ok?

Instrument cluster definetly looks more modern in s2

Anyone see what happened last night on parramatta road around leichart? I drove past at about 3am, and the whole road was blocked off apart from one lane, there was a massive accident. Three cars were involved, a barina with minor front end damage, and this is where it gets nasty.. There was a mazda 626 and a new shape white impreza(couldnt tell if it was wrx) both sitting on their sides, on the footpath, on either side of a pole. The wrx had one side of it completely smashed in, and the whole car looked bent from the impact. The 626 looked bent as well, windows smashed out etc.. It looked unbelievable, like it was a movie set or something, ive never seen anything so graphic. What happened?

Yeah i think they do too...i guess they just order them with custom specs...

I have a hot4's engine oil test, where they compare dyno figures with different oils, same car, same day, same temperatures. The two best oils were...mobil1 which gave as far as i remember about 6% over the control oil, .............but then...they tried royal purple, and it was unbelievable!! It was some crazy figure like 10-11% power gain over the control oil!! So if you can afford it, try it, i would.

Email sent...I am really grateful for this....

That spring rate is nuts! I was playing gt3 the other day at a friends place, we had 8kg springs on our drift s13, and even on gt3 we were laughing at how extreme the springs were lol. Anyhow, i love hard suspension, so im not baggin your choice, just should be interesting I would probably go for a full whiteline kit instead of jap coilovers if i had the $$. Whiteline have coilovers too.....would look into these as they are probably more suited to local ROAD conditions than jap coilovers.

My pads are 60,000kms old, (ive used them for about 7k since ive had the car) and they still have more than 50% left. I have endless NA-M pads....after seeing that they have lasted this long, i would definetly see them as worthwhile replacements. They may be overkill for street use, the rb74's might be much better value for money, but i havnt used them so couldnt say. But yes the endless pads are excellent, not much dust, and they bite hard when hot or cold, plus i have never felt any fade. Only downside being they apparently eat through the rotor faster than other pads.

I have only done very basic stuff like changing engine and gearbox oil, filters etc... but i think i have a fair idea of how most things work, and want to learn more, i like working on my car myself. if ur prepared to help me out, i wouldnt mind driving over and paying you for your time, cuz at least id be learning....

Get the red one, !! i have a red one, and in series two, i have only ever seen 2 other red cars! The colour is brighter than the series one colour, it looks really good in real life. BUT red fades fast. Best if u can keep it in the garage. The mirrors on mine are really faded and u can see that the paint is far from new. Heres a pic to my car in the shade, and in the sun, so u can get a good idea of the colour...

chucky: Thats a good price if it includes labour, otherwise its bad cuz gen nissan water pump is 150 and timing belt 100. About the heater..the coolant flows through the heater core, which then heats your air..so maybe there was crap stuck in your heater core, which has now been flushed out when the coolant was replaced. Unless there was barely any water in the system, it wouldnt have been related to the water pump.(i may be wrong.) wrxhoon, id like to try and take it all apart myself, i think i could but since i have not seen it done before im not 100% confident... i live in the city..have u changed a gasket before? If you know what exactly to do, then id like to try it out, with your help. If u dont mind and have the time.... it would save me quite a bit on labour im guessing... I dont have a torque wrench, i was just compaining to my friend about this tonight... My car is basically standard, running standard boost and turbo. im hoping its just a coolant line or something.. i live inner city...whereabouts r u?

i keep a close watch on my consumption as well. Its pretty damn bad! With at least 90% heavy city driving(i live in the city so theres a million sets of lights to get anywhere ) i get 300-320ksMAX from 50 litres. SO that works out to be minimum of around 16.5l/100km on the freeway i can get between 400-500kms out of a tank (depending on the average speed more than anything else) so thats around 10-13l/100km so yeah ive found consumption really depends on how and where you drive. Edit: car is very close to stock.

well since it was over $550 and they did basically do the basic thing i wanted in the end (replace my water pump) i wont bother. If i was in your place, things would be very different! Good luck, i really hope hills experiences more grief than you did, and learns from it.

I am tempted to remove and refit the head myself, as like you, i dont trust too many people to do a good job. I trust one mechanic, as my family and i have known him for around 20 years....he never rips off n does good work. But yeah if i had the tools, i would do it myself Ive lost faith in the standard head gasket, so i would probably go for a metal one if i can get the cash.

Ah ok, but i got quoted that price from two different places... The only place u can see the coolant leaking is from around cylinder 6. The problem is, even if it was leaking from a turbo line or another cylinder, u cant see it as the turbo and heat shield hide everything. If u know a good place to go that might be better value, post it here...

I posted the thread complaining about hills, in particular about my experience when having my water pump/gearbox oil/timing belt done. I dont want to get your thread in trouble by posting my personal views about what happened...as my thread has definitely disappeared without notice. The fact is, they didnt do what they said they would, for the price they said they would charge. Plus i just want to state another fact that seems a little strange to me: They accept cash only. I hope others learn from our mistakes....

wrxhoon: thankyou for your info..although im not quite sure i understand it all. Yes it was changed 50,000kms ago...so its a bit surprising that something is wrong already. I hope its not a cracked cylinder head! Do u u guys reckon it is worthwhile getting a metal head gasket, keeping in mind i plan to run higher boost than standard along with other mods later on? (one which maintains the stock compression ratio, as i already have forged pistons which slightly lower the c/r anyway) b-man: i went back, the found nothing wrong with what they did with the water pump. So they fitted it correctly, BUT they reckon they pressure tested it. If they had done that, this leak would have been found the first time around instead of this time. I wasted a day to find out about this leak. So the price of $1000 is ok? including a regular head gasket that is? Do u think it may be a coolant line to the turbo?

Yeah had a pressure test done...they had to leave it at a higher than normal pressure for quite a while till the coolant flowed out of the head area. I had the whole system flushed too so yeah no other leaks apart from this one. They said that it will generally leak when the car is turned off because this is when the built up pressure tries to escape.

I have a coolant leak which was not picked up when i changed my water pump which was leaking too... Looks like it may be the head gasket, may also be a coolant line to the tubo but this is not likely... in the attached pic u can see where the coolant is running down the sill located where the head joins the block, and then runs down the gearbox onto the road. I have tried using chemi-bond to stop it, ill see how that goes...but otherwise i find it odd that the head gasket is leaking when it was changed 50k ago. Anyone else had these problems? Got quoted around $1000. including crack testing head...machining anything etc. Does this sound right? (in case the chemi bond doesnt work )

Mine does it..after long trips it does it even louder...very clearly audible. But the clutch feels fine. I think it sounds like a hinge or a rubber seal sumwhere which needs to be lubed up Wouldnt worry about it....

undo the speedo sender..its at the same level...

Read the link I did this on two cars on friday, one through a stupid little hole and one through the speedo sender. USE the speedo sender hole instead of the normal filler hole if u cant get it undone like me its a hell of a lot easier, and you get the correct level too.

Yes according to workshops and as far as i know the user manual..i can check it later, i have a user manual sitting around sumwhere. Definetly 2.8l. But yes, many people have found that you can easily put in a whole bottle(usually 3.7L) of oil without problems. Like me Nearly. I will keep a close watch on the oil, as i should according to rb25's issues. Thanx.

thats shit. Hope it magically doesnt happen to me. A friend was telling me something that may contribute to this expanding problem... He saw a test on lucas additives(favoured by a few workshops...) where when gears were spun slowly the lucas enhanced stuff stuck to the gears well, but when they were sped up, the lucas stuff bubbled ad frothed....causing extra heat..expansion...stuff like that which im sure would lead to issues like yours. So yeah do u have additives in the oil? I guess ill have to take the car for a hard drive to find out if it happens to me.

Just had a thought...maybe you overfilled and this makes the bleeding problem worse..cuz its only meant to have 2.8L But will accept more. I put in about 3.3L and it still wasnt coming back out of the hole..