r32line

Sorry, I thought whey you said "I hate quoting pictures" that you were having a go at my thread reply with a picture only but you must have meant you don't like including a pic in your reply. Anyway, here are some pics I have that are reasonable resolution...

Haha, You have a go at me then ask for something from me??

No it is not. Thankyou for stating the obvious. I believed this thread was comparing an r32 gts-t to an r32 gt-r.... When someone makes a gts-t as capable as that car then I will be both surprised and accept the original premis of this thread.

R32 gts-t's can be picked up for a fair bit less than an s15 or an RX7... This would leave you more money to modify the handling. With a good set of coilovers, strut braces, decent wheels/tyres and a hicas lock bar I think you will find it to be a very fun car! *Edit - I know you said looks aren't important but s13's are not a nice looking car... they look really aged imo: Eeeekkk...

Gotta love the flutterz...

Next...

SOLD

Cheers mate. I'll pass that on to him. I agree with you though, it is incredibly clean example!

NOTE: THIS AD HAS BEEN POSTED FOR A FRIEND OF MINE. PLEASE CONTACT HIM VIA HIS MOBILE RATHER THAN PM ME. THANKYOU Nissan 2001 Spec R S15 Manual Immaculate Australian delivered black S15. Regretful sale. I am the 3rd owner, previous owner was my friend and owner before that was her friend and all have always taken great care with this car. Full service history and since I've owned it has been serviced at Chasers Motorsports. This car has lived its whole life in a secured lock up garage. It has been tastefully modified, never boosted and driven respectfully. It only has 94,000kms. Additional features: - Custom tan leather interior in great condition. - full 3 inch cat back exhaust that is quiet and low profile at idle and does not attract attention. - 17" P1 Racing rims. - Rear sway bar - Pod filter - Aftermarket speakers - Custom dash cluster (pictured) - High quality long life Optima battery - Turbo timer - After market alarm / Immobiliser Normal Spec R features: - Sunroof - Body kit - Spoiler Price: $20,500 neg Contact: Chris 0401 080 899 Inspection will not disappoint. CARSALES: Carsales link

SOLD

Please note, the best method to contact owner is his mobile rather than PM me. Cheers.

THIS POST IS ON BEHALF OF A FRIEND WHO IS SELLING THIS CAR DETAILS: IMMACULATE Australian delivered 2001 200sx. Sorry no swaps. - 126,xxx kms - Blitz LM Front Mount Intercooler - HKS Super Dragger cat back exhaust system - After-market 3 inch dump and front pipe - HKS SSQV Blow Off Valve - 17 Inch BBS rims sprayed in satin black - After-market fuel pump - Full Vertex kit - Electric Jap-style fold in mirrors - Fully de-badged with only a Silvia badge at the front RWC will be provided Has heaps of rego Note: This car is well maintained and serviced every 5,000kms or less. Only the best engine oils were used. Inspections are welcomed. CONTACT DETAILS: Delano 0432 451 663 PICTURES: CARSALES LINK: Link PRICE: $17,000 ONO

Camera phone pic but still:

Black R32 GTR with SAU sticker - Kingsway, outbound about 6:00pm. I rolled past you in the right lane

Is anyone else noticing that it runs extremely poorly when you are in a race with a lot of cars around you? I was doing some of the licences and it was not running smoothly at all. Or if on exit from a corner you break traction and wheel spin again it seems the game cant cope and runs like sh*t. Its as if the games graphics are so detailed that they are beyond the processing power of the ps3...

What is this 'installing' you guys are talking about? I wont be home till late tonight but i would have thought you but the disc in and other than checking for updates it would just play straight away?

I just bought it at JB and they are selling it for $77 shelf price. No need to price match etc etc. They also have heaps of copies in the city store

That's it mate, but if you have it as a second car then looks etc don't matter. I'm seriously considering getting it for a daily. With the petrol saving etc it almost pays for itself... If only it weren't for rego

When getting a budget car you gotta go Toyota imo. Starlet / Echo's are in your price range. For that money you could get a 98/99 starlet or 99/00 echo. Both have drivers airbag, a/c (in most of them anyway, need to check cause in some models it may have been an option), super reliable and seriously cheap to run, sooo easy to drive/park etc. For $3-5k I don't think there is a better option in terms of cost to run and reliability. There are plenty 'cooler' cars but at the end of the day for $5k its not really going to be anything more than a car to get from A to B.

Based on your budget and intended use you cannot afford a GTR. If you do buy it anyway, it will break and you will have no more money, and then be left with a big paperweight. I think you need a rethink. If you want a car that you can use on the road AND take to the track you are going to need to spend a lot of money on strengthening components for the abuse that track use inflicts. If you buy a $17k GTR bolt on some turbo's and think you are good to go you are gong to learn a VERY expensive lesson. For what you want and for your budget I would be looking at a gts-t, s13/14, 180 or somthing similar. They have much less to go wrong, you can get them for much less and that will leave you with far more cash to build them up right. Track days are seriously expensive hobby particularly when you want to be able to drive the same car on the road.

I can catch the train most days but sometimes have to drive and in heavy traffic it can be a pretty annoying car to drive with its heavy clutch, loud exhaust etc. So it depends on what the traffic is normally like on your trip to work if it is mostly flows well then it would be fine. Its an import, and its got a fair bit of stuff in it, like awd, twin turbo etc etc so yeah if things break it can be expensive. Oil pump failure, blown bottom end but these are normally when the cars get tracked or driven pretty hard Yes those panels are aluminium and no they can't really be repaired. Cost can be pricey because people with gts-t's also are after those parts. Its got a lot of technology and its getting quite old so every now and again its going to let you down, but thats just how it is. For the most part mine has been very good with only real thing to let me down being the clutch master cylinder and the alternator in about 2 years. But the better example you get the less likely it is you will have issues. I average 14lt/100km using BP ultimate. Pro's and con's to both. But for me i could not buy one off a screen but that's just me. My previous car was a grey 32 gts-t and it was actually really good for staying clean. The dirt doesn't really show up as much on the grey. I wanted to keep mine relatively stock so all I have is an exhaust, pod filters and a boost controller set @13psi and it makes 200kw at all 4 wheels which is pretty decent. The controller has 2 settings though so i don't always have it at 13psi, but for the stockies thats about as high as you want to go. In 1992 there was an update with minor changes inside like the finish of the cetre instruments but I dont know what else changed mechanically. The main thing to note is for the buying one here that quite a few of the older models still got in under the old 15-yr rule. This was a lot more laid back than the full SEVS compliance and cars with visible rust for example could come in under 15yr rule so that is something to watch out for. I have coilovers on mine with wider rims and tyres plus and underbody HKS chassis strengthening kit and it handles REALLY well. It is so direct and one of the things I love about the car the most. It may sound biased but it is one of the best cars I have ever driven. When I hop in other cars now the handling feels so vauge and there is so little feel by comparison. Hope that all helps you with your decision.

Hey, I wasn't in my car so you wouldn't have seen me. If I see you again in my 32 though ill give you a wave

32 GTR on kingsway tonight - "kizza" Car both looked and sounded awesome!!

well it turns out I was right, it was the alternator... trying to find a replacement though has NOT been fun.

Anyone else that can add any light?