rev210

Silver gtst, K&N panel - $90 (wherever) Thermo exhaust tape - $100 (wherever) S-afc II - $600 (taka's) Bleeder - $90 (turbosmart etc..) Diff cradle kit(KCA349) - $110 (whiteline) Ogura 4.8kg flywheel - $600 (taka's) Subtotal = $1590. (should get 12's with just this) Tyres/ traction --- ANZU Ozrace tyre treatment $40 OR just go over the $2k for some Nitto 555's or similar.

The clutch plate cost $330. The Flywheel (Ogura 4.8kg) $600odd. Pressure plate $250? Ross charges around $250 to fit.

Unless you are going to tow caravans or boats the 2500lb pressure plate is overkill, is much heavier than the stockie. If you must upgrade the pressure plate (i kept my old one 90,000+kms old) then a 2,000lb pressure plate is heaps. Auto -clutch make a great clutch plate. 9 button job, that has the best take up of a button clutch I ever had. Get a light flywheel while your at it.

The 'flexible' pipe that I am reffering to, can be replaced by a metal section with two rubber pipe joins one on each end. That flexible pipe is very restricive.

The e-manage is a well thought out product. People who 'bag' the unit or have negative experiences can tell you what to do wrong and how it doesn't work. People who have success are worth talking to, they know how to do things the 'right way' and how to make it work.

poyz. the S-AFC II has knock sensor input, you get readings throught the rev range.

good time. The mph indicates there is a little more left in it too.

so do those drag meets have proper timing beams and christmas tree lights ? Or is it done on a stop watch and a marked section of road?

MIC33R, hear what you are saying. Dyno's are a tool for tuning and like sidchrome sockets and spanners I can't afford one, or afford to use one. It is possible to get consistant results without the dyno in the same way as many people have got inconsistant results 'with' a dyno.

R33NT, Not against pods at all. The intake pipe I am reffering to has a spring in it already. Here is an auto-speed article on the lowly airbox. Skylines are the some of the worst flowing airboxes. CFM is measured at 1inch of water tho. http://www.autospeed.com.au/A_0073/cms/article.html

turbomad, Your right the AFR's guessing is crap. I don't give a rats arse what the AFR's are as long as the 'knock' and 'ping' situation is under control and the power is there. It's kind of like the rearwheel horsepower, I don't care to know. It actually won't make my car go faster knowing either. 'Tuning' the thing on a dyno makes a case for knowing but since I have yet to do so.... BTW,are you so sure I haven't set it up properly already without the dyno? I said before somewhere else there might be a little more (5-10HP maybe) I might get out for the dyno time. Dyno time is expensive and tuning the S-afc is pretty easy with the knock sensor read out. Does anyone remember the days of carby's and jetting? I never once did any 'dyno' tuning for that. I even tuned a Haletch F7B back in the days when it was new, without a dyno. Tuning 'properly' does not necessarilly = dyno.

bleeder are a poor mans EBC and don't do anywhere near as good a job bringing the boost on quick or holding boost. If you have the money an ebc is great stock turbo or not. If I had one my times over the quarter would be a tenth or two lower just from the extra response they offer.

Summoner, Drop in a big block hemi mate, the chassis is very strong and there is plenty of room for one.

Instant, I thought it only had 450HP @ flywheel when it got the 10?

Chino, The commondore did a 13.2 you say. Was that at the quit motorplex in perth, or have they built a proper drag strip in karratha now? Gester, People love doing things the hard way (expensive way). Since chino already has the full exhaust he has got a few dollars out of the way. You can always do 12's by spending lots of money all the same, as long as your happy doing that no one can say you were ripped off because you are smiling.

I guestimate the afr based on the amount of timing I can give the thing and the new information provided by the S-afc. Basically, you need very rich mixtures to enable lots of timing and if you run leaner mixtures (ala my new S-afc) you must peg back the timing. If I had 12's at the top end to begin with then I couldn't lean it off anymore than a few % at light throttle at 5000+rpm (just forget even full throttle). And I certainly couldn't run a base timing of 35deg +. 15 degrees is about it for 12/1 AFRs without some toluene.

R33NT, Don't go 'turfing' that air feed mate for all it's little bumps it isn't going to restrict a 300HP@motor (if your lucky) GTST.If it concerns just add an additional pipe feed or re manufature it without bumps. The pipe from airflow meter to the turbo is however very restrictive and can be worth maybe 6+ HP , double the airfilter mod.

the bleed valve install is a 'no-brainer' (that's why I could do it). It plumbs staight in with no fuss. Adjust it slowly a notch at a time and give it a bootfull on the freeway in 4th. In fact the freeway is a great place to do the tune. There is no need to exceed the limit as the turbo under load in 4th will get to max boost well before you break the law. leave it at 10psi and I'm sure you will be more pleased.

$2k or less will get you a 12 if, unlike me, you don't use the car for work. Then you can splash out on wider tyres.

GR33DyMANGO, Cheers mate. There are other even more strange photo's from rev210's files but, this one was good enough for an id match. Speaking of ID's and photo's, Last time I went to the cop shop for a photo licence I tried to get my rubber chicken in the shot. They wouldn't let me! It took 9 photo's to get one with me not pulling a face and sticking the rubber chicken into the shot. I'll get my chance again mark my words!

Further to my post about guesstimating my afr's I should have said my top end would be 9s and the low/mid range max of 12's (non-closed loop stuff).

A pic from my latest feature film: Attack of the Ape-Man-Anarchist's! Anarchy anyone one?

read my last post on the thread you mentioned.

It's a derivative of 'rice cooker' , the not so affectionate name given to all things asian motored, by primarlily Aussi/Yank V8 motoring public and media. 'rice-ing' is the act of (over)celebrating this fact with accessories for your car. Definatively none of which increase its performance and may infact detract from it. If you are male and enjoy 'rice-ing' then you may be called a 'rice-boy'. Political correctness has forced me to use the terms 'rice-persons' and 'rice-its'(when you can't make a positive id of the humanity/animality). I for one have spent numerous hours laughing at 'rice' antics, I think they provide a valuable service to the community and extra revenue for our police and autoshops. Brightly coloured,sporting strange oversized 'car-garments' and making funny noises.... Think of them as 'clowns' of the road.

I'd wait and see just how well sorted the R33 is before you go telling your mate you'll kick his ass. You might need to fix a few things up before it runs well. It's better to say ' I reckon you'll probably just beat me' and then kick his ass bad. (Saves the friendship and makes the winning an underdog thing).Than to say ' I'm going to wipe you out man!' and lose because the thing missfired'.