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rev210

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Everything posted by rev210

  1. .6 is what you have to run. Has he tried running 9's with a bigger gap? I guess he has probably tried alot of different things. I'll stick with the 6's then for now , if it aint broke as they say. Thanks for the info steve.
  2. INASNT, That's right I don't 'need' a dyno to tune my car but, I do need alot of time and I don't have any before the trip and then very little time when I get back. Besides, from the sounds of things Steve knows his stuff and He'll probably get more than I ever would have. Steve, I was going to get some ngk 7's since I expect the rev range has lifted since the cam gear etc has gone in. My old rule of thumb was 6's for 6000rpm 7's for 7000rpm 8's for 8k and so on. Does this sound like a plan mate?
  3. Browny, Problem is the same point isn't the same point mate when you talk about rwkw/hp. Ahhh...1200kgs. Well 260hp will probably be plenty then. What is it a little datsun 1600 or something? Leave the engine pretty stock and just up the boost a bit.
  4. The good ol supra twin turbo 1993 onwards, has a big fuel pump. It's probably good for 600hp worth of fuel delivery. Would be pretty cheap to get hold of second hand.
  5. Malpassi regs are excellent, as good or better than the jap regs and much cheaper.
  6. Rear wheel readings are helpfull for 'tuning' on the spot. Only that particular dyno operator will be able to make sense of the figures, performance comparison wise, between cars they have previously tuned.And not between thier dyno and the bloke on the other side of the country/world. They are not standardised form one dyno to another (need I mention myaree dyno?). 260HP or so at the motor is quite alot for a light car like the R32. It would see a nice mid 13 1/4 on street tyres. Just shows you how much bulldust people swallow and how much crapping on there is about dyno figures, particularly peak rearwheel power.
  7. Well you can have a large turbo that comes on boost at 4500rpm and I'd still consider that traffic drivable because the torque of the 2l six will punt you around quite well without boost. It also eliminates some of the traction issues a smaller turbo has due to it hitting boost at only 2500rpm. I'd say 260-280HP at the motor would otherwise be an excellent power level for a daily driver with your sort of needs. Forget the rear wheel figures, they are not worth troubling yourself over as no-one manufactures any part rated in rwkw or rwhp its always rated at the motor.
  8. Thanks dude. If thats the place you reckon, I take that as good advice. I'll give him call a bit later.
  9. Where abouts is SST?
  10. Ok, Lets not start any bitch fight here, I am just wanting to get an idea of a tuner to goto. I have got no time to muck around with my car before the Drag wars to get it sorted, therfore I need to get the S-AFC done on a dyno. I was wondering about the best place to take the car for a tuner who can set the adjustments quickly and correctly and hence saves me some $. Needs to accept credit card payment too. It looks like people will finally get to see how much power my car doesn't make to achieve a 13.4.
  11. I might have to use a dyno shortly to do a quick setup of the S-afc II before the drag wars thing. I am going over seas and get back only just in time for the event and thus far I have had no chance to properly sort the new timing and fuel settings after the Cam gear install.
  12. the 255's let down to allow side wall flex would do the 225's in over the 60ft. If we are talking the same rubber compound/tyre. The inflation of 36psi will put the 255s at some disadvantage Vs 15psi. Then again 15psi might be too low if you are talking street tyres (not nitto's or mt's).
  13. Ok. I have used thermal wrap for sometime and here is what I have found out. * Thermal wrap will sheild more heat than ceramic coat.It's cheaper to buy into. * Doing both is a great idea, from a long lasting 'wear' perspective. The coating will protect from increased corrosion and thermal fatigue. It's expensive tho'. * The main benifit of thermal insulation comes with the increased engery/speed (due to trapped heat) of the exhaust or hot side of the intercooler piping. The underbonnet temp reduction is of secondary importance, but good none the less. * When doing the thermal wrap -- clean & prepare the surface and paint it with silicone hitemp stuff. Cure the paint properly. Wrap evenly. re-apply a finishing coat of paint over the wrap. DEI is the most user friendly (revolution race gear do this stuff) it has a nice marking on each side for easy and even wrapping. Done right the thermal wrap and your exahust pipe will last a long time (even thin stainless). Done wrong and the pipe will crack and corrode within 18months.
  14. I agree steve. After all the dyno is just part of the tuning process to get the cars real perfomance when doing the thing you love to do the most... racing! I have found some tuners do the final dyno tune with the bonnet 'up'. This goes for power runs as well. Although there is certainly reasons of keeping the engine 'cool' for long periods of tune, the final tweaks and power run ought to be done with the lid down I reckon. At least I have asked this in the past- with some strange looks given but, I feel a better tune results. I could be wrong but, the car doesnt get driven around with the bonnet up.
  15. 250kw = 335hp . This is about what the 2530 flows at the motor (a little less maybe). The 2540 is actually 340/50hp at the motor and the 2540R is reputed to flow 400HP. Hence getting two 2530's on a GTR is said to be able to produce somewhere around 600HP @ the motor. No one is going to argue that the stock gtst turbo is higher flowing than a 2530, in the real world it means that its about 30-40hp better than the stockie (that folks is at the motor). Inasnt, Flow 250kw at motor I'm sure. 250kw at the back tyres? Sure why not! Why it will even do 500rwkw if you photoshop the printout.
  16. The simex tyres are pretty good and about the cheapest around. I have a set of 205's and they hold on well for a 205. You need a fairly tall profile to allow for sidewall flex. 60 profile is better than 50. 235 will be plenty.
  17. Nah. If you can find an older 14 or 15 inch rim with the right offset and bolt pattern you can get proper second hand drag style radials to suit (MT's etc). Alternatively, some second hand soft compound tyres in a 55 or 60 profile and maybe 235 in width could be treated with some OZrace AZNU traction compound for the 16inch stockies. That mph in your signature is awfull, you must be making the same power as a stock vehicle maybe even less. Have you found any problems since you did the 1/4 mile pass?
  18. forget 50k for a chook to do 9's. Quite a few guys have got beat up old Capella's and RX3's into 9's for around 10K worth of drive line.
  19. I reckon 14.5. Then if you run faster you will feel good about it. Hard to say what the power is at the engine, maybe 260HP. What was the power before the unichip went on? Go to the local drag strip and have a go. I could probably have a guess at the power based on the terminal speed you get then. Besides its just plain good fun to go drag racing!
  20. the newer Evo lumbers down 1/4 in mid 13's . The earlier models could do a low 13, if they hook up really well. Even the old gsr is a bit of a sleeper. They are still a lancer and as rare as a real evo is the average person cannot distinguish one from the 'girls car model GLi' with a spoiler kit. They are a poxy looking car. And because they are poxy looking it makes beating a V8 trev all the more enjoyable.
  21. rev210

    Exhaust

    Oh and don't fork out for the rims and tyres just yet. At least if you want the performance badly. The exhaust is a great mod to do up front not least of all is the slight fuel saving you can get (helps pay for itself over 2million kms?). The great thing about a stock looking skyline is the look on ricier looking skyline owners faces when you beat them badly. Even better when they ask to look under the bonnet (i assume for NOS or other obvious mods) and there is nothing but stockness.
  22. rev210

    Exhaust

    get a couple of quotes together then ring Pat at Quickfit exhausts in Morley. He does a great job and charges less than most. His workmanship is top class.
  23. You could do this in every state.
  24. mate its pretty easy to make one from the aluminium foil backed foam from clark rubber. $23 per m. After you cut that stuff out to fit, you have a template for a metal one should you want it to look pretty, or you could just cover the foam one with fibreglass resin and paint it. The foam is a fantastic heat shield.
  25. EVO is great little pocket rocket. Not built to last unfortunately.
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