rev210

From what I understand the slight down side of a solid steel (or better chrome molly) single peice shaft is the transfer of harmonics and greater shock loading. The carbon units in addition to being lighter as a little kinder to driveline components. They are alot cheaper though.

I've had a habit of tuning (properly) on lower boost with my cars as a base line for some time now. This is especially the case when I upgrade cams as the improvements to cam timing can be easily missed if the tuner assumes things about boost setting. Upgraded cams as mentioned have an effect on flow restriction and I've found that rather than bashing in identical boost to the last setup right off , running substancially less than before and gradually bringing it up finds the best tune. As Sydneykid's examples seem to indicate. Dialing cams in at lower boost is a must do I reckon.

No won't need Z32's . You can just use RB20/25 AFM's for that power or a little higher.

An example of changing from 'good' china core to ARE of the same size to get an extra 90rwhp, same car same dyno. The end tanks on the china cores are basic to crap in design and quality. Better than stock? yes. Support high power? yes Do a better job than ARC/ARE/Blitz? NO.

nothing special about them , same as regular.

got a carbon tail shaft or did I miss that in the list?

sold.

re's and the like are awesome tyres. They wear out real fast so as long as you have a decent budget for tyres then go for it.

bump

Just devils advocate here JAGR33 Is fairness in comparsion then only acheived by comparing one car with itself, on the same dyno, with the same bolt ons and the same tuner? That means even BoostR's results aren't meaningful to my car and by the same logic they aren't meaningful to my choice between 2530's and -5's given my car/tuner/dyno/bolt ons are different. I could follow your opinion expressed as my guide but, I kinda don't know you ( I'm sure your a top bloke tho') and I can't see why you hold an answer on this subject yet. I can't see how the -5's make the 2530's look silly as yet? I'm certainly not elevating myself to an expert here as all I did was took a little time to see if the only data we have makes a case for the -5's superiority. It doesn't but, that needn't be the end of the examination. There are a few guys like BoostR who are now offering some driving insights. I'd like to consider that worth some weight even though cars/mods/tuner are different to mine. And if we allow that sort of comparison then giving a little weight to the data we have is sensible too. How many times do people ask questions like; "what sort of power can I expect?" "what sort of power do these turbo's make?" The boost building thing is interesting. Would people agree that more boost building earlier is only good if it leads to the expected extra power at lower rpms? Again from the examples we have, I see that in the 'best' examples of the 2530's both on unopened and built motors produce a better bottom end power experience than the best examples we have of the -5's. This could be due to tuning so it would be worth trying to see if it is or not. This perhaps will help guys out with -5's and other turbos if it's something fundamental. My guess is the cam timing and possibly on the built motors compression ratio/setup but, what are the specifics? Not trying to bash the -5's here either. I'd rather like to become a believer too given they are so cheap.

It would be great to have the data on hand if you are able to get hold of the additional info on these examples. The forum has a half decent collection of data and hopefully examples you mention can be added to quantify things. For someone wanting a fairly non-bias analysis they are going to find it hard to beat the kind of impartial info that gets put up in the turbo upgrade thread. Based on the graphs availible the response and mid range power on the -5's is a long way from what you are talking about. The lower rpm range favours the GT-SS. The -5's and 2530's make up some ground in the top end. Taking cars that make more than 400rwhp, std stroke, bp98. average power over; 110kmh 130kmh 150kmh 180kmh GT-SS = 265rwkw 2530s = 284rwkw -5's = 242rwkw taking just 110kmh & 130kmh to indicate the 'reponse' and mid range GT-SS = 218rwkw 2530s = 196rwkw -5's = 174rwkw I think we would all be happy to see some examples of -5's kicking some butt. However there aren't any so far that can lay claim to definative 2530 ass-kickers as far as response goes or for that matter peak power. So far these results don't support the idea that simply grabbing a set of cheap -5's are going to make the 2530's look silly. Got a long way to go to make the Mines car look silly but, so far the lowly guys on the forum are doing a good enough job of defending them. To get the point across some actual data might help the -5's case.

Well, a stock turbo'd auto gtst without a highstall would be a thing to see running low 13's. See how you go then and let us know.

If you are happy with the idea of 350rwkw then the GT-SS would be a pretty good idea.

low 13's are easy enough in a manual gtst without the use of extensive modifications @ 170rwkw.

Go down to the strip and find out. Talk is cheap when it comes to 1/4 mile times and certainly no fun at all for you. 15 seconds. See how you go. You might be faster than that or you might not?

It's slow but relatively straight forward. About the only slightly unusual tools are the pipe spanners for the metal lines, $10 for a set of cheap ones will do.

15 seconds

nismo unit is spot on. Just $$$$$

here's the stat's you come up with from reading through the Rb26 results thread Standard stroke only comparison, includes budget and built motors on 98'; The average for the 2530's is; 388rwkw The average for the GT-SS is; 335.4 rwkw The average power made by the -5's is; 313rwkw Of the same data the best power of the -5's was 388rwkw Best of the 2530's was ; 451rwkw. Best of the GT-SS was 364rwkw Now if we are going purely of budget un-opened/ non-built motors maybe with just some drop in cams it looks like this; -5's average ; 298rwkw 2530's average ; 358rwkw GT-SS average ; 332rwkw

400+ easy.

Roy, I'll admit I was being harsh but and I basically take your point about backing up the statement. Here on this forum we can have a go at looking objectively at this, with our collective experiences noted down for all to see and share. I think -5's are a good 'budget' turbo, there's nothing wrong with that. Based on the only few examples I know of where an owner has gone to them from 2530's (usually because they broke a turbo) the performance/power is lower. One off this forum which comes to mind is Boostd, from memory the 2530's were stronger power wise on the same built motor with a little less boost. The power was still good regardless so no doubt you could be happy about it still. Results wise I've had a good look over our sticky thread and the HKS gear comes up better from a stats point of view on basically apples for apples setups. We are lucky to have those threads really, they help you weigh up the rubbish you often hear. I think however calling the 2530's shit makes people look a bit stupid, given the information we sit on here. We don't even need to do the fanboi mine's / hks / 'insert hero car here' refferences to give the 2530's some well earned respect.

Find a new mechanic. If he said that, it's possible he doesn't have much of a clue. You don't want someone like that touching your car ever. The top end on HKS 2530's ? well over 400rwkw good enough for you? GT-SS will get you the better part of 350rwkw or more setup right. You will find that the average power made by the people with HKS turbo variants is higher than the garrett, when looking through the RB26 turbo upgrade sticky. Apples for apples they seem to work better. The HKS tweaks are worth the extra.

The gt-ss make for a better street turbo than the larger -5's. If you really want the extra top end long term then the 2530's are the best pick.

If you want to push 'big power' build a motor to handle it or .... you will be forced to later. You may also like to consider the other components that will die as the power level increases, it's all money. So far the evidence is that the HKS turbo range out performs the so-called garrett equivalents by averages of peoples experiences. The GT-SS is about the ultimate for the standard engine in terms of power limits and performance. The power made by these will slot under the breaking point of reliabillity for the gearbox and other bits. However, when pushed will exceed the safe/reliable power limit of an unopened old stock engine. You will want a bunch of other supporting modifications as usual like injectors/fuel pump/ecu and cams are good too. Tot up the dollars and even without a rebuild it's a little bit of money. Your old motor still might pop shortly afterwards and even if it doesn't the more power you have the sooner you are going to need to rebuild it. Hope that helps

12psi is fine. read these; General info: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...ick-t66556.html How easy it is to make the car go decently fast without much effort: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/13...h-R3-t9292.html hope that helps