rev210

RB25det out of r33 gtst 95'. ran but, had some blow by (ringland). excellent for a starting point for a motor on a stand build up while you drive around. $500. I'm not posting pics up , if you want to know what a bare Rb25 looks like then do a search.

RB26 coil pack set (stock) $300ono Perth

someone comes up with $15k before the weekend and it's thiers, afterthat back up to $16k

here's my tip; Dont fill up. partial fills FTW. Run around with less fuel = less weight = better fuel ecconomy Also I run the tank right down to almost empty every time. This keeps sludge from building up in the bottom of the tank making the fuel filter do it's job and keeping the fuel pump working at it's best.

I like the castrol R 10w-60.

new pics added

cold air partition for the pods. Ecu upgrade. Cam gears. Cams. Are a few

smidy, I'm in the process of fixing the same issue in an R33 gtst for a friend. I have changed the plugs and also checked the cat. The issue is most likely still a coil pack, hairline cracks can result in a lesser breakdown issue. larger cracks give a much worse problem. The solution is in a tube of silastic. I'm done for the day on this car so we will glue the coils in the next few days.

I hate this moment but, alas the R32 GTR is slated for removal to make way for something newer thumbsup.gif $16k !!! Thats right it's a cheap GTR, cheap only because I'd like to move it along for my intended replacement. Details; 1993 R32 GTR Midnight purple Power FC w/hand controller Conservative 'nanna' tune to 214rwkw, easy to tune more but, you know it's not been remotely hammered to death. HKS Pods 600HP fuel pump rev210's custom foam airbox Uprated clutch Cat Back exhaust Nismo 320kmh dash Momo steering wheel. Volk GT-P racing rims 17 x 9.5 on each corner (super light forged rims, hard to find a lighter racing rim) 255 federal 595's all round N1 Water pump Upgraded suspension. greddy boost guage timing belt (gates race) /water pump changed at 66,000km (speedo) and the car is now on just under 74,000km. * Mechanically this car is great, gearbox shifts are smooth and are not masked by the evil blue smurf blood. Engine runs strong. * Body wise it has some rust in the rear wheel arches. The expense isn't great to get the car tip top in this area however. The price reflects this aspect. * I'll get some new pics with the Volks up soon. The main differences is that the rust around the rear wheel arches has been exposed and I have sealed it with some etch primer. Contact via PM for more info banana.gif Here's some older pics of the car with the weds on it. I rather like the midnight purple paint, it's pretty mean. Gives you an idea of what the cleaned up car can look like. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/19...ur-t217014.html

I hate this moment but, alas the R32 GTR is slated for removal to make way for something newer thumbsup.gif $17k : Thats right it's a cheap GTR, cheap only because I'd like to move it along for my intended replacement. Details; 1993 R32 GTR Midnight purple Power FC w/hand controller Conservative 'nanna' tune to 214rwkw, easy to tune more but, you know it's not been remotely hammered to death. HKS Pods 600HP fuel pump rev210's custom foam airbox Uprated clutch Cat Back exhaust Nismo 320kmh dash Momo steering wheel. Volk GT-P racing rims 17 x 9.5 on each corner (super light forged rims, hard to find a lighter racing rim) 255 federal 595's all round N1 Water pump Upgraded suspension. greddy boost guage timing belt (gates race) /water pump changed at 66,000km (speedo) and the car is now on just under 74,000km. * Mechanically this car is great, gearbox shifts are smooth and are not masked by the evil blue smurf blood. Engine runs strong. * Body wise it has some rust in the rear wheel arches. The expense isn't great to get the car tip top in this area however. The price reflects this aspect. * I'll get some new pics with the Volks up soon. The main differences is that the rust around the rear wheel arches has been exposed and I have sealed it with some etch primer. Contact via PM for more info Here's some older pics of the car with the weds on it. I rather like the midnight purple paint, it's pretty mean. Gives you an idea of what the cleaned up car can look like. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/19...ur-t217014.html

I'm really keen to see some 'stock cams' graphs with the benifits. It's certainly a different way of looking at the traditional and I'd love to know how it's supposed to work.

GTR body powered by a 1.6 diesel.

Perhaps a few things might be worth a look. Was the Mines remap done with the modifications you now have or prior to them (turbos etc)? If you got the car from japan with the Mines ecu and later added the turbos and other bits then you have your answer. A tune that is too lean for the new higher airflow and a missmatch for the mixture changes brought about by the cam timing. If the ecu is tuned for jap fuel then the ignition curve might be a shade to aggressive for the 98 stuff. Platinum plugs are lame. They cost too much and yours are perhaps now rooted. get some copper NGK BCPR's and gap them to 0.8mm, cost is small for testing in any case. Have a look at the plugs in there. Make a note of any differences between cylinders too in colour and marks. Bung a wide band o2 in and check the AFR's. other ideas include a partially blocked injector or two, a fuel pump on the way out, fuel filter issue. Also, don't go demonstrating the 'pings' at 6,000rpm again, it's detonating long before you hear it and we don't want you to lose the motor.

yep. you can set it up to run. The injector and AFM inputs as already mentioned. You will be prefferably running on the rich side so have a new set of NGK copper plugs ready to bung in.

1) R32gtr fuel pump could be 'made' to fit but, given the inexpensive high volume better fit pumps about it's not worth the hassle. 2) No they don't fit. GTR injectors are 440cc 'top feed' as opposed to 370cc 'side feed' on the R33 gtst.

If you are making serious power a 'freshen up' style rebuild occurs often. The more power the more frequent the rebuild. Race motors are rated in hours. A freshen up isn't much dosh compared to what you have blown on replacement brakes/tyres by the time it comes around. No big deal.

HKS sand sucker FTW !

Read in here as a good start ; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...ick-t66556.html Then use the search function, as most of the answers have been discussed many times.

from memory there is no reported gain on Neo motors for some reason. Never tried it myself.

Ha yeah, He's got it all wrong. F ull O ff R ust & D ents Now thats the right answer.

But I want my passengers to hit thier heads on metal.

Bill, thats 4 degrees retarded on an R33 exhaust cam. The standard ecu is ok, there is gain to be had.

Nothing wrong with the K&N actually. It's because people over oil them, contrary to instructions. So only avoid them if you can't read.

A good chrome molly flywheel is the go. It's stronger than cast iron and light. I had an excellent experience with the Ogura 4.8kg unit on the Rb25. The Ogura units are very well balanced. As they are fairly light the type of clutch also comes into the equation for drivabillity. A big mistake I see plenty of Skyline owners make is going for a pressure plate with too much clamping force. If you get one of those ceramic/metal sprung 9 puck units, then a standard pressure plate will have them hooking up very well. Even on a fairly grunty motor by virtue of the clutch plate being far more bitey than the organic stocker. Multi-plate clutch kits often come with a light weight flywheel too.

Copper plugs FTW! Standard coils are great when in working order. Leave them alone.