rev210

yeah look probably just save the money on the mechanic having another look, your rings in 5 & 6 are damaged end of story I'm afraid (leak down test shows you this) You have the basic data so really I'd say just stick to nursing the motor along till you are ready to upgrade the motor. The RB's are tough and will often hang in there for some time when treated well. This buys you some time to save.

The rear turbo went so that accounts for the rear pots 20% leakage. That is a fair whack more ithan acceptable especially if the other pots aren't even. It tells you that they have been ceramic dust 'sanded'. The bore and rings aren't going to be happy at all. Not to mention anything down in the friction parts of the oil galleries the ceramic particles have managed to work themselves into. Long story short is that Slapping some bigger turbos on this motor will basically kill it pretty fast. I would be getting yourself a rebuilder motor onto a stand and just build it up as you go till the day comes. In the mean time give the motor a seriously good flush and tune it to 'nanna spec' till the new motor is ready to go in. If your lucky the engine may kick along for quite some time with fairly normal driving.

-9's are also now an option. They are the closest match to the GT-SS. The compressor map is very nice indeed. Has the very close efficiency island at the 30+ airflow to the -5's , where the -7's are going to be pumping that sort of air with alot more heat. They appear to be a newer style? With the best of both worlds for those wanting to make the airflow over 250rwkw + with less effort than the -7's.

It might start and run but, you might find there is a drop in compression/increase in leak in one or more pots. It's nice to know about it so you don't cop any more rude shocks later. Only takes a little bit of time to check.

(Impersonation of Gestapo officer) LIES LIES LIES! NOZING CAN DEFEAT ZE MASTER RACE!!!!

Sorry to hear that dude. Do a compression check and leak down test when you get the chance to work out if the motor copped a dusting from ceramic particles.

My mate's stock V6 commo did 400kms/hr . It's a factory freak you know....

As posted at the begining these are great little budget performers for modest power levels. Bond, You will find that if you aren't doing sustained amounts oth thrashing the smic will be fine for road duties and even a little track time at the drags. The location of the smic is good for static traffic situations and helps with heat soak. A quality front mount intercooler will start to offer some value on this turbo as the power starts climbing over 230rwkw. This turbo has the legs to do it so keep it in mind.

Hi James, The bid deal is that the forum keeps record of the threads so you can find them wih the search button. In two years time you will be able to find and reffer to old threads you may have started that are of value to new guys and gals. The fact is that the guys with experience can't be stuffed repeating themselves. So you are left with the pool of ignorance to bleat on and take up archive space woth dribble. If the storage wasn't an issue we could create a 'day care thread' for noobs to do this sort of running off at the mouth. What pisses people off here is that some noobs left to thier own devices will populate a forum in seconds with eleventy billion questions that are all the same. Most of what you should take time to konw about your skyline is stickied along with the key threads. If that isn't good enough for you and you just have to type things, go to some other forum that wll let you clog it up and just 'read' this one. The forum is something we are priveledged to have and it's costs some dedicated blokes time and money to keep running, give that some respect

ooh. that sounds like a dead turbine wheel I hate to say. If you have a hose off then the car usually won't want to idle well or at all. Dead turbine is my bet, but I hope I am wrong. If so, fingers crossed you haven't ceramic dusted the motor. Sadly this happens alot. You will find a pot or two down on compression on a test or losing compression on leak down. If it's the turbine make sure you get rid of the oil too.

We have a few threads already called the RB20/25/26 turbo upgrade, that give you the answers you need. MODS reckon we close this one up now it's done it's work.

You might notice that like a few blokes I was one of the first to start on this forum, 2002. That's how long I have been around skylines and like lots of guys have owned and modified a few. Also,You did notice I have had experience with the 'cheap ass turbo' ? These are actually as old as the hills. It's called getting some budget machining done to your turbo and DIY backyard building a turbo and skimping on the balancing part by not visiting a turbo specialist except to buy some wheels to fit to (In the days I was around it) sometimes old diesel turbos. Back then you could get the bits you needed for sometimes under $100. It's just being made popular now buy the chinese doing it in their backyard for you. Look , I hear what you are trying to say. I also understand that you 'want' to hear something. Everyone loves a bargain it's true. And there are good examples of saving a few quid on where and what you buy from experiences on this forum thoughtfully added to sticky sections. Not just turbo's mind you. I'm not blowing my own trumpet here but, I have come up with a couple of bargain mods that I have shared on the forum. Take for instance possibly one of the cheapest being the 'rev210's $5 intake' mod. The MASSIVE difference as to why people don't cop a flaming is that there is at least some decent reasoning behind 'why' it works. Take this $150 turbo though. Knowing that you only have $150 from which you have to make a turbo and make some money so you can keep making turbos and keep advertising the fact. Just how good do you think you can make one? Do you think it's rational to expect it to be as reliable as a factory or aftermarket turbo or greater value? IF so tell us why? - what differences do you think there are in manufacture? Perhaps you think there is none? Do you want to believe that? Do you think it's rational to expect it to perform as well as a factory or aftermarket turbo (considering the thought that goes into matching components)? If you provide the answers to those sorts of questions positively then you are on the right track to starting a 'good' thread. On the other hand we can handle you wanting to say x turbo worked on my car and made more power than stock but, it's a laggy peice of crap. There is a sticky thread or two for you called " RB25/20/26/30...turbo upgrade.." I honestly don't know if you have read them all but, the question being asked here is answered very well by someone listing the mods to thier car (including E-bay turbo) and posting up performance numbers for people to compare. As the thread question itself doesn't want negative comments it really is a waste of space becuase those threads give you the best answer in figures from real experience. Your last parragraph is the most revealing of all. If you want to save some money on running the car I strongly suggest you keep the stock turbo on till you can actually afford to run a bigger one. If the $150 turbo were capable of a very laggy 230rwkw there is a nice expensive list of supporting mods you are going to need not to mention the addtional wear and tear on everything from drivetrain to tyres you will need to budget for. The motto is in for a penny in for a pound. Performance cars do not equal saving money or concepts like cheap. When there isn't a moron behind a cars setup, money wins. Want a mod for $150 that will help you save for the next 3 yrs is a great title for a new thread though. My first post will be a suggestion that you buy a bicycle I do actually care about my fellow skyline community members and particularly for the guys who are trying to do things on a budget. The last thing they need is to have someone piss in their pocket about some magical dream turbo for $150 that will only deliver dissapointing performance and maybe even kill thier abillity to own a skyline when the motor gets lunched. So I will continue to be a prick about it for the sake of those guys. For the blokes who have a few quid and don't give a crap if the china turbo kills thier bunky hack you don't need to spell anything out to them. They have the money and it's usually a good source of entertainment. My experiences around cheap turbos heralds from days of turbo charging peice of crap cars and in some cases the sole objective was to thrash them to a miserable end anyway. We even used PVC piping for intercooler plumbing we were that cheap. How about I start a thread about the PVC pipe alternative to metal intercooler pipes? Same concept. If you do a search on the forum you will actually find something in a thread about it too (I've posted about it at least twice from memory). take it in good humour and move on

Basically, you ought to have proper facilities to do the measurements needed to justify any adjustments hence people telling you to take it to a shop. No one who has any experience is going to say different, there isn't the kind of consensus about RB20 cam timing settings as per the RB26 with stock turbos and cams. Timing adjustments are dependent on a range of factors. You ideally need to retune the fuel and timing to optimise adjustments. I notice you have no aftermarket ecu? If this is the case then you need to be careful with adjustments and basically a wideband sensor is very good idea. So you understand 'why' you are moving the cam timing. You should do a little research but, failing that here is my intitial 2c to get you started. * Advancing the intake cam moves the valve closer to the piston (be careful- not too far) and as a result you get increased cranking compression. You aim to end up with better bottom end power. The peak magnitude of power changes is centred around really the peak of the hill (one spot) but, kind of moves the whole hill under it. You advance and generally the power peak moves down the rpm range, to a point. I think you find due to the relation to cranking compression , things like turbos airflow/boost/ engine breathing characteristics make it slightly more tricky and effect which way you go from 0 -or+ and how far. * Retarding the exhaust cam moves the valve closer to the piston (be careful not too far) it tends to effect power more generally over the entire curve. But to less magnitude than the intake changes do. The exhaust cam setting is more of a engine specific/characteritics thing. Sometimes advanced sometimes retard. * Tune at an initial boost a little lower than you want to end up at. Tune for increased boost later. * Dial in and advance/ retard intake cam first , then the exhaust cam.

grab a second hand VG30 turbo is you want more power. They bolt on and will make the same power with less lag as a cheap ass china turbo. On top of the fact they are a few dollars cheaper they are not unbalanced hand grenades

You overlooked the main reason we don't like it...... can't afford one Lets be honest here. all the skylines/GTR's are bashed with an ugly stick compared to the true beauties of the car design world. Z-tune is a good car to drive no doubt but when it comes to it's looks.. what is it they keep saying at the moment ? Lipstick on a pig I've owned a few GTR's GTST's of differing types and I've also owned a 1977 Volvo station wagon with a V8 in it at the same time. So I am afraid with tastes like mine the skyline/gtr is guilty by association.

buy a second hand unit $400 and bung it on, turn down the boost if you are running more than 12 psi as well.

Do a search and you will find instructions on the wire cut as mentioned. the moral of this thread is " use the search function ".

Welcome. Make some good use of your time by 'reading' the sticky sections in the various sections and when thinking about a question to ask use the search button first and remember to have a good read. Have fun mate

35

Bannana's ftw!

buy another dump pipe as suggested . I've bought a couple of JJR units and all of them were cheap but, basically the build quality was crap. They all needed work done to fit properly and all of them I hav seen have flange missalignments that lead to at best poor flow and at worst stop the wastegate flap. You are going to keep a stainless dump pipe for a vey long time so save up a couple of extra months and do it right once.

Hi Ian, Have a read through the sticky 'forced induction guide' Also, think about what you want the car to do now and in the future. Do you have some benchmarks for performance you want to acheive?

Cheap , fast , reliable. Pick two. That is the law for performance cars. I'm not sorry but, you need to go read the sticky threads. You will then realise why these threads are arse. When starting a thread like this; You are not suddenly revealing a new and exciting world the skyline/perfromance car community has no idea about. You are not a technology pioneer. You are a in fact a Noob. Actually, I made a suggestion about turbo options for your gtst that are just as cheap but, far better than the S&*T on ebay. These options have been around for a long time too. It's people who advocate non-balanced turbos who make money for engine rebuilders. Whats going to cost you more? A $2000 turbo that treated well should outlast the motor or a $500 turbo solution from dodge'o china that lunches your engine and gets you a $3,000 - $6,000 engine repair bill. Oh and sees you get toasted by a vanilla standard turbo gtst on the track. The moral of this story is use the search button and ask the right questions. Plenty of info already here, please take the time to read it.