rev210

The JJ ones are shite. And will be worse than stock if you aren't bothered to check the matching of the flange to the turbos and get rid of the overlaps. When they do bolt on they have rather crappy flange alignment so unless you like poor flow you get the die grinder out for a few hours. I've now seen enough of these to know quality control is an afterthought.

The standard clutch may just let go all at once on you with no warning. When you exceed the power it can cope with (read not much of an increase) you are in for hassles.

The bell mouth is less problematic. To do a 'good' split involves a relatively long sepparation in order to caputre the turbulence benifit. 5 puck non-sprung clutches are rubbish to drive by comparison to the 9 puck sprung units availible. Why budget for the clutch first? *if you are making good power the factory clutch will die fast. *banking on old parts not designed for the power increase, lasting is the dumber way of doing things with performance cars. The 'my mate had one that went for 10yrs' advice is sometimes dispensed by people with the disease of false hope. Get rid of that when you understand you have an addiction to cars, it saves you pain. *when it dies you have the massive hassle of it potentially letting go somewhere you would rather not be stranded. * If you have upgraded the clutch the odds of this hassle are pretty much nill.

1.34hp to 1kw.

First cab off the rank is to get the clutch and flywheel lined up. The stock clutch friction plate will die. If you want a good clutch setup for anything up to 400rwhp, Ross from Autoclutch in Osborne park can sort you out for one of his versions of a 9 puck ceramic 'sprung' clutch plate and I would consider going to a chrome molly flywheel ( more response and accelleration) while you are at it. Stick to the factory pressure plate pressure. You do not need more until really you are ready to bite the bullet for a twin plate. It's a mistake to get more pressure than you need and takes away from the driving experience. The exhaust (front & dump pipe) can be done by a local exhaust place. My pick is Mettams Morley (ask for Pat) 21 Rudloc Rd, Morley, WA 6062 - (08) 9275 7034‎. The guy does amazing work and the prices are very low considering how good the quality is. Along with lots of other performance nuts I have utilised Pat's skill for many years on lots of cars.

Not a fan of the aftermarket FPR bandaid. If you had to get one then the nismo unit bolts straight in but, there is no substitute for larger injectors when you need them. Sards are good injectors, as good as any.

Here's a big tip ; Don't drive your car (if you can't not put your foot down). You have unlimited boost and not only is that bad for the turbo it will also be potentially bad for your engine. Fuel and timing requirements for 1bar will be different to 1.8 bar+ Have you had the tune on the car checked since buying it? If it's come from Japan with a tune that hasn't been sorted for Australian fuel you could be in a worse position too. So if it hasn't go get a tune ASAP. You may have the original solenoid in the engine bay if you are lucky. Plug it back in if you do otherwise you ought to get even a cheap ass bleeder or something to restrict boost.

too easy Good call R31Nismoid, modifed stock gears would be the pick for the budget minded

What do you want to do with the car (daily/track/drag etc) and what sort of driver experience are you looking for? What aspects (accelleration/braking/handling) are you looking to improve and whats most important? Answering these can help get the money spent where it's going to give you the biggest buzz.

They are certainly cheap. But they aren't well made at all.

Hi James, Looking at the gears they may appear ok but, If you have ever machined something for yourself on a lathe you will know that you can get it spot on or miss the mark. Part of it is how skilled the operator is and part of it is how good the equipment is. I've made a few pulleys before and a balanced one of even measurement requires a tiny bit of care. Care you find little of out of the factory these come from. I mean if they gave a damn, why are you getting bolts that are unsuitable? Maybe they don't know what they are doing? I've chucked a few of those cheap gears away for people, after showing them the gears are of a poor measured quality. The faults that I have seen include (but, I'm sure aren't limited to); * Crap bolts (we have a fix for) * Incorrect thickness * Un-even thickness * Incorrect tooth pitch and hieght for belt * Incorrect markings I picked up the issues both before installing and another due to a friend having some noise on operation, unlike stock gear (due to above issues) a guarenteed issue down the track. It also machined off some material from the Cas/mounting. Great having little metal filings on your timing belt. If anyone has had that on one of these gears and still has it on thier motor my advice is to throw it away quick smart. So take out some measuring tools and check these things if you must be cheap ass about it. Your eyes aren't good enough and like I said this little cog can root up your engine if it causes failure. Cheap insurance = quality control. For the extra $100 I'll let some band name factory do my quality control. I can't be stuffed for the time it takes to check properly. So here HKS have my $100 The old HKS gear issues are not proven by the way. I have had a couple and they don't have a problem. I consider it an old wives tale.

no aftermartket cams are different.

As suggested they are not useless. Ugrading them at any point (stock turbos or otherwise) will net you some power.

WARNING ____ Anything that is a part of that timing belt setup can foobar your engine if it causes failure of that system. For sweet FA you can get a quality product. Trying to save $100 on cam gears if so stupid when you think about how much fuel you use in a month. Having to modify something because it comes out of the packet shite?

race it and see.

there are plenty of choices. The stock dump pipes are restrictive and the exhaust housing of the turbo often has overlap on the dump flange making it really need a good port matching. Hard to go wrong except for the el'cheapo china units. They often need work to align the flanges and as a result may bolt on and actually perform worse than stock.

Use it properly and you don't have any dramas at all.

I've been looking at the -9's and they almost look like they are a newer design. They seem to enjoy the best of the -7 early spool action and yet have the efficiency in the bigger airflow regions akin to the -5's. For a road car I reckon the -9 is the new black.

If you haven't changed your diff oil do that now too. Diff = Castrol SAF-XA

Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 or Castrol Syntrax 75W-90

The -9's will get the 350rwkw is my bet.

Hi Race32, welcome. That question can be answered on another section of our forums. So lets not start here to keep you on the right track. If it's a car you are looking to buy or already have you can look at the thread titled 'VINs you want FASTed..." Some of the forum Members can look up the VIN on the Nissan FAST database sofware.

castrol fully synthetic.

sorry I think I read the 20 as leak down percentage? Compression tests alone arn't enough really to have confidence. I had my old GTR engine lose a rear turbo, compression tested within a few percent of perfect across every pot ---- yay! , leak down in the rears was a different story 20+% --- doh! Hopefully it tests well for the leak down too. If so then the motor is cool for now. All the same having another one ready to go is a smart move if there are bigger turbo's planned.

I might know someone. Whats the damage? Geez this looks painful. I remember passing the details on for ACPT for this ages ago , can't believe how it's turned into mud. The previous dealings with ACPT were always really good, nice bunch of blokes, no doubt there are some behind the scenes reasons.