rev210

Q1) NO Q2)Machine shop + Money + Stupidity.

www.realultimatepower.net

heres another option; sell the gtst ----and buy a gtst with the work done. this option and the buy the gtr one are good options. avoid the loan thing if you can. Save instead.

Ha ha. The stock turbo can be removed and installed by yourself in the garage. Get a second hand R33 turbo and you can use that to do you mod while you drive about. The turbo change can be done using basic tools in your driveway. It's a stock turbo afterall so no customer bits at all

If looking at a budget bolton you could also go a stock turbo TO4 V-trim mod. Will give you about 240-250rwkw at fairly low boost. Take the stock R34 RB25 turbo. Machine out the exhaust tubine 'snout' to about 52mm and fit a TO4V trim compressor wheel on (machine compressor housing). You can leave the cermaic turbine in place as the shaft speed is much lower to produce airflow and the machined tubine snout offers plenty of clearence. I'm guessing around $400 worth including V-trim wheel & machine work, ask the turbo place for a quote.

Nothing wrong with thinking about it The good news is that by the looks you may have started from scratch but, you still aren't very far from it ecconomically speaking. Something interesting to consider, believe it or not it will still cost you alot less to go buy a car with all the power fruit you could want (dare I say even an R33 GTR) and then transform it cosmetically into this car you have now if the look you have is somehow unique. By the time you are finished with getting the 280rwkw on this one (including all the necessary bits like an engine build /brakes/suspension etc.) you could have bought that very nice White HKS demo R33 GTR for sale and painted it black etc. We are maybe talking $40k over time but, there are plenty of punters around in GTST's who when totaling up bills that they will find they spent more than that and to end up with alot less. Remember power is addictive and more power means everything needs to be upgraded eventually. It's the cheap way to get everything you want in the car 'including' the looks. Lets face it you haven't exactly fabricated anything on your car by hand have you? If not you can replicate the look on any R33 pretty easy and compared with the turbo spend, very cheaply too. Nothing wrong with keeping the car you love but, ask yourself if it's just this car or is it the type of car?

So $7,500 to maybe $9k on a loan bolted to a fairly standard GTST worth maybe $13k? I know people fall in love with thier cars and thats fair enough. But, consider what a budget of $20k+ will buy you in terms of an already modified car to the level you are seeking. I suggest you can buy something that goes better and has more money spent on it and be miles in front on the spend....then again we all do it the wrong way so others can buy our mega dollar heart ache for a bargain price You still have about 'another' $12k on top of this turbo setup to spend before your car is going to be worth $18k, if that makes sense. Having said that. I would say that if you don't have the money to build this lying around you actually need to evaluate whether you 'can' afford to run a 300rwkw vehicle whilst paying off a loan? More power when used wears everything out real fast. Unless you want to pose in front of your car with a dyno sheet you will need to think about this aspect to cover yourself. If you can consider that the best position to be in is one where you have the coin ready for a rebuild in your back pocket. Also, does it matter if the car is off the road for a very long period of time? On the question of the turbo selection others have mentioned the 0.64 housing on that turbo and I would agree it has all the legs you need. You might consider the actual average power as a goal rather than the peak (unless you are the dyno queen type), it is possible to configure the selection of parts around a wider midrange goal rather than peak output. Depends on your ultimate reason for wanting 300rwkw and what you are intending to do with the car. So what do you want to do with the car? If you just want to slap a big turbo on a car to say " I once slapped a big turbo on a stock RB25 " then no problem'o it's very strange but, what ever you like is fine. If you are actually thinking about some sort performance goal then there might be some better suggestions to go your way. Don't want to see you do the usual merry go round alot get caught on with cars.

It's way to add extra kgs to the car for sure.

option 1 is best.

14.0 @ 98 mph

Some light reading... inside how to drive. Summary is ; Respect your GTR Warm up Drop the clutch every gear change (yep Aussie GTR's have a nismo twin plate from factory) My old one still did (rattle rattle rattle).

these ones.

theres at least a 14.0 @ 98mph in it yet

pineapples & tyres.

The neo has a larger AR turbine housing and a nylon compressor wheel. * It's not an upgrade * It can't boost higher, the same. * It makes basically the same power. However plonk a TO4 Vtrim wheel into the compressor housing and machine out the rear turbine snout to 52mm and you have a 240rwkw turbo without the expense of a rebuild. Machining and wheel will cost a few hundred. Due to the much lower shaft speed required by the TO4 compressor wheel to move greater volume of air and the extra clearence around the ceramic turbine you have a very reliable and responsive turbo.

This sort of question I would normally reffer to www.realultimatepower.net Seriously, with that car and you driving who knows. Why don't you go to the drag stip and find out? That way you can eliminate yourself from the group of tossers who sit around and theorise about what times thier cars will run with no intention of ever going to a track to find out. After going and getting a few runs people can break down the mph and other variables and give you a better picture. In the 'motorsport section' of the forums. Hope that helps.

Noticed this titanium front pipe for sale on ebay. Wondering if anyone has had experience with them seems expensive for something from knock off land. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Titan-Exhaust-Front...oQQcmdZViewItem

JZ conversion is a waste of money if what you want is 'actual' performance for your dollar. If you want to be different then go a TB48 conversion. 4.8L straight six (nissan) and brian cower makes a 5.1L kit for it too.

595's are rock and roll value tyres! I have a set of 255/17 on the GTR and I can say they are punching above their weight in terms of price. $146 each! thats a bargain and a half

destroy weakness!

I missed no point at all. The V8's have some restricions applied that are specific and different to group A. The V8 supercar is designed to beat other V8 supercars in the class it races. They are dedicated race cars. They happen to be very fast for their size and category restrictions. A meaningful comparison is not there to be had with a road going Mines R34. It would kill it but, you can't drive one to the shops. We have to be carefull of taking up straw man arguments in the pursuit of being a fan boi. The original question was answered.

You'd think that but, actually the high octane (mark/russ) gtr is alot slower than a V8supercar, the difference is more than the M-speed on tracks where the guys have lap experience. So again the answer to the original question " Mines R34 Vs V8 supercar " is the V8 Supercar is much faster.

Poita

I voted for the Rb30DE because it's the crap choice.

Yep, thats exactly why project starting points are so important. don't buy a gts to build a gtst or a gtst to build a gtr. On the other hand buying an expensive collection of performance parts off someone for next to nix when you buy them bolted to a car is very cool.