rev210

Ah you have tried this setting too? I'm not 100% that's the setting I wound up with but, it was written down on a bit of paper that I was using for notes on the car at the dyno. The cams were R34 units in an R32 as well, with my rather dodgy looking standard R32 CAS modification

you can stick the larger 0.84 AR turbine housing on

bargain!

Hi, I found the scibblles in my pile o junk after a bit of a look. The exhaust timing was set to 8 degrees retard. Intake to 4 advanced.

Rebuild motor time. Bearings are rooted.

Yeah I've heard of a few more as well that have talked about poncams not getting the width of power like that. I wonder if it is to do with the setting of the cams as you mention or if there is also some overcamming / profile mismatch going on if these examples are ones being ported /rebuilt motors . I think regardless that the off the shelf limitations we have with the RB's puts all engine setups at some sort of compromise. We don't have access to the variety of profiles or custom grind's other motors have. It is possible that the off the shelf Tomei's are optimised for stock head dynamics. I've done the stocker dial in also and I'm a big fan of it as a great budget mod, you pick up power everywhere and the settings are pretty well established for the average motor. The experience I had with the Tomei units however, made me a convert. I gained more power from as low as 3,000 rpm up. From 3,000rpm onwards I had a better power band than the best stock cam cam gear adjusted car dyno I've seen and by alot down low. My brother who is a big block hemi fan , I let drive the car before and after, was shocked by the pull the car had from the cams final setup, such that he commented he may have to buy a GTR.

The cam gears alone are great value. Even on stock turbos. I understand the standard cams have a following with some reputable tuners. There are also a number of people who have upgraded and found better power delivery. Whether it's the -5's or even stock turbos, taking the tuner as your guide is the best bet. If they are sure of the stock cam optimum setup then go with that and you get the best value. Personally, on the unported head standard motor, I would take the pepsi challenge any day to get more power everywhere over well adjusted stock cams with a set of tomei poncams. However it took quite a bit of fiddling on the dyno last time to get the best out of them (mates rates dyno though). I'll be giving the tomei cam upgrade a go again shortly and this time I will get the settings down for others to draw from.

Morley - 21 Rudloc Rd, 9275 7034

My thoughts are that you need to sheild that pod filter. The pod filter if it has no cold air feed and heat shield, sucks in very hot engine bay air. Or just get a factory airbox and cold air feed from someone throwing thiers away. Perhaps you can even offer to swap. Keeps the cops out of your face too when you pop the bonnet. Mettams mufflers in Morely is where I have always gone for my cars. Pat there is a master and his quality work is very cheap indeed. Mild steel dump pipe to the cat in 3 inch. Shouldn't be too much. Go grab yourself some pineapples for the rear sub frame. they are only a tad over $100 and you can fit them in your driveway with 15min, a bit of effort and a crowbar. Easier if you have a mate to help out. The clutch is something to save for if you only have a standard one in there as drag racing and the modest power increase will see it on it's way quickly. When my car was dyno'd at 190rwhp I ran 13.8. It's pretty easy to do so. The thing about dyno's is that they are really only a tuning tool. Making car comparisons is not what they are good for.

my old r33 gtst ran low 13's consistantly with ; Standard ecu + SAFC2 205 tyres on stock rims turbo back exhaust (dump/front pipe custom made at Mettams mufflers in Morley, I thermal wrapped it) standard air box (K&N element) standard intercooler 10psi ( bleeder valve) Pineapples (rear cradle bushes) Light weight flywheel and upgraded clutch With just these items I can get any decent nik R33 gtst into low 13's or with bigger tyres on the back straight into high 12's. Low 13's without spectacular 60ft times. Notice the lack of Front mount intercooler.... Not needed to do this, get a good one when you upgrade the turbo and other kit. That cars dyno after at the time of the low 13 was 175rwkw. It looked stock and was quiet and comfortable. The JJR integrated split dump pipes are rubbish. They require machining to align the flange plate properly, the flange plates are sometimes not flat (warped). Just get something from an exhasut place made. Without the split design. And then thermal wrap it.

dosing ! Fully sik uleh ! I've taught my kids to say 'ricer' everytime they hear a car doing this. Become one of us or be one of 'them' applies to this area

If you say 1 bar we mean 1 bar do we not? If you go around telling people that stock turbos can hold 1 bar all day, then neglect to tell them you didn't mean " 1 bar all the way to redline". They may own a skyline with an ebc and then on your good advice will lead to a nice dead turbo and possible engine damage. Adding an ebc to 'hold 1 bar' is not "increasing boost" as far as this argument is concerned. It's 'holding boost'. The GT30 will be fun.

I had a few rotors in my time and actually, they are very reliable motors when treated as directed. No one reads or does so. We had an original poo brown RX4 coupe in the family back in the day that had 320,000+kms since new before it went smokey and we stripped it. Second point is very much on the money.

I hate that movie and it's sequels. They are preachers of rice.

The gtr's are more likely to get hurt but, the same risk is there.

The Volvo is a top 'sleeper' vehicle, as even people who are clueless about cars LOL at anyone who says that they were beaten in a race by one. Even if you do win against a sleeper Volvo you can't brag about it either or else you get more LOL's.

bolt on ebc so it actually holds 1bar till redline (big difference between getting to 1bar and then dropping boost as revs climb) and then take it to the local circuit on a sunny day. guarentee I'll get you 3 dead turbos before the end of the day. It's the same bleating you get from some GTR owners who don't know better and it's also actually really a stupid way of increasing performance given the risk. When the ceramic turbine lets go you can end up 'dusting/sanding' your piston bores with ceramic particles. There are again plenty of examples of 'damn I lost my turbo......wonder why my car is using more oil and compression is down?'. I had some very old GTR turbo's let go.No suprises, it did just that. I'm not being a kill joy. You can still run a high 12 or low 13 1/4 with just 10-12psi in an R33 or R32 with one of these turbos. I have. Want more power? Go and buy a buy a bigger turbo with a metal turbine easy fix.

Did it hold 1 bar to redline? With a bleeder it probably didn't. As mentioned before for your one Rb25 turbo I can name plenty more than 30 dead ones.

Some good bits. Power you are looking at that rpm? Motors that are regularly seeing 9,000rpm and have what you have also usually are bolted up with a decent size turbo or two. If taken to 9,000rpm they usually are pumping lots of horses worth of air and that just means everything becomes one big consumable in time. At least having a spare block and the rest doesn't hurt. If you are needing to take the motor to 9 for gearing reasons then obviously lopping off/limiting the power is helpfull for longevity. If the motor is clearenced well and built properly, that short list of parts should help you go there a few times.

fairly full house ? or full house? I'd say part of the way there is; * Jun/Trust oil pump + long snout crank + decent balancer * crank girdle and head stud upgrade * Oil gallery mods * Sump extension/ baffles + rear oild drain * decent balance of everything * valve train , titanium retainers / beefy springs etc. (with the right clearences) valve guides etc.. * pistons/ rods /bolts

The twin pumps should ideally not be going full tilt/ 100% all the time. Quite alot of the time only one 044 is needed, it has a stock pile of extra fuel in the surge tank. Ideally if it's a drag car you just flick the two pumps on for whatever seconds and who cares the fuel isn't going to get too hot. On a road car /track car it's a different story. Like a carby fuel bowl, the surge tank is there as a measure to ensure that should the lifter pump stumble at low tank levels in a corner you have fuel to keep the pumps fed. Also for non-efi cars that have no fuel tank baffles. If the fuel lives in that container for too long in hot weather or the 044's cooking time is too long you get something alot milder than carby vapour lock, namely heat load on everything. Hence why a fuel cooler might help. there are other ways to do this better though. Lots of ways to skin the cat here. But, the 100% use of the 044's all the time with one swirl pot and what looks like very little tank return (being very high on the pot) isn't doing favours for heat. Also, just check the voltage supply /grounding for the pumps too.

for your 3 , I will raise you well over 30 popped ones on R33's who thought it a good idea to run 1 bar based on shoddy advice. give it 1 bar of boost often enough and they let go. I am very confident I could pop each and every one of those 3 you have had on an Rb25 within a day , given a go at them The sheer number of popped R33 turbos in the history of this forum boggles the mind. And if I had a dollar for every guy who said they ran 1 bar for a year with no troubles only to have the turbo pop within the month I would also have a few bucks in the pocket. 1 bar on an RB25 with ceramic wheel stock turbo = hand grenade.

R33 Gtst , I had just got the nitrous kit into it. Was running approx 150rwhp shot. I stacked the car into some kangaroo's before I had a chance to have a crack at the drags. 2rismo used some of the bits of my old kit to run 11's on a stock turbo. Everything on it appart from the exhaust looked stock. Aussie R32 GTR with Nismo 700HP RS580 turbos / cams etc. stock look Volvo family wagon in this guise only 13.8@101mph (with two baby seats and a pram in the back). Forged built up 308, shift kitted turbo 350 (mild stall) B&M quickshifter. Dana 60 LSD 3.5 gears this one was fun to drive. I had a new cam, high stall & 250 shot nitrous kit lined up for it before I had to sell it

At 320rwkw you should be thrown back alot more than the stock turbo's. You could tune the bottom end power band with adjustable cam gears and lop off the top end power to keep the stock motor alive. It will be a nice suprise for your tuner to be one of the few people who walk in and say " up the boost to 20lbs we are aiming for the best mid range and I want to limit the top end to 300rwkw and 7000 rpm ".

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...ct-t250702.html link to pic and manual from WA for sale thread.