rev210

Run's 8.3's and drives to the drag strip and home. I like the big cube mopar sound over a zonda etc... (they sound too much like motor bikes). The sound for the people..... (save as) http://www.moparts.org/moparts/picture/bur.../pic5/patch.mpg If a zonda goes past in the morning you think...was that a motor bike? OR (save as) http://www.moparts.org/moparts/picture/bur...urnoutsteve.wmv Thats an Aussie vid too. Then again some people like classical music and others like heavy metal.

this one sounds ok. 4.5L V8 twin turbo.

540 cubic inches of mopar twin turbo. 8.4 sec road car. sounds er ok I think... download from this link(SAVE AS) ; http://www.moparts.org/moparts/picture/bur.../pic3/chad.mpeg

.Y

cheaper to convert to one of these.

the interpolation is better when you need less of it. Hence the extra map points are more important than a knock sensor from a tuning perspective. The S-AFC is a fairly blunt tool to begin with without ignition mapping so if you have the choice take more tuning resolution. I could have got got either but, went the Neo. It's a short term thing anyway.

neo has no knock sensor. It's nice to have but, not necessary.

What I know about camshaft timing agrees with the quoted parragraph Tomei has at the begining which I think you didn't understand properly. The last sentence is 'not' an instruction for timing the cams perfectly on any RB engine they make a cam for. The preceeding parragraph says more about that. Although I can see how it mislead you. It's a Jap --- english translation and as usual not as clear as it could be. Now as for small gains.. .I've seen more than 100+rwhp on one occassion from moving the Tomei 260 9mm poncams from the 0 to something more suitable. My old GTR picked up power everywhere both with factory turbos and Group A's over and above the 0 setting. Slapping cams in without making adjustments is a 'bolt on boy' approach I have seen go wrong for people even back when I was runnning about with pushrod V8's. I always invested in adjustable timing gears then just like now. You won't see a big dollar RB motor without them if the engine builder is serious. The best cam timing is something for your engine setup and application (both count). So it's not a silly thing to get cam gears afterall. You aren't wasting money. You are getting full value out of the cams. Just trying to help with what little 'real' experience I have as opposed to opinion. If it doesn't make sense ask your engine builder what he thinks.

I have the Neo. The interface is more friendly and a couple of extra map points is a good thing. Knock and the little 30 second log playback is nice to have if you know what to do with it though.

Tomei don't say that and it's not true either. Plenty of people with the poncams testify to that not being the case. Including myself.

always.

it seems it goes easy or it doesn't. When I did the Tomei cams in mine I was so impressed at how easy it was compared to the push rod setups I'd done in the past. I did double the number of steps in torquing the bolts off and on that nissan had in the manual, as I initially didn't have access to the manual at the time and used my intuition (usually a bad move).

using new bolts?

reliable horsepower package = factory showroom floor and warranty. People with 'reliable horsepower' in mind need to really start and end the search there. People who live with modified cars are bi-polar depressed types like me. Sky high one minute and in tears the next.

the fact they tried different caps says ' oops forgot to which one goes where...' thats where the problem starts.

cam caps as suggested sounds like the issue.

peak power figures aren't worth much. A dyno isn't a 1/4mile and visa versa. One place tunes the motor the other is the place you test / tune the whole car and it's driver?

Since I bought the new house it has no garage. However.......my plan, my five year plan; * 6m deep underground garage * 10m x 8m * Hoist * dyno * bar * usual sound system and 60 inch plasma TV * secret underground mono-rail tunnel to the house with secret trapdoor entrance, so I can sneek off.

thats the stock plenum with a cut and shut so the thottle body faces forward.

They didnt go back to 2WD technology for the GTT the GTT is the newer version of the Gtst NOT a GTR which has always been 2WD. The 4wd attessa technology is newer than the 2wd tech found on the GTT. It's older tech. No one has ever said they are better than GTR shocks but these springs and shocks are 15+ years old if still factory. a 7+ year old would be in better condition then the later. *You assume too much. My 1991 R32 GTR original shocks and springs , having traveled 240,000kms + handled better than a low km GTT. And when I mean condition im talking bout things being weathered and falling apart from age not just the way the car has been driven. * You again assume too much. My old car was very well maintained something you find is more common with GTRs as they were $110k brand new, and the people who bought them initially had the money to ensure the kms they put on didn't cost the cars condition. The first few owners were well off meaning the service work is more likely to be done in accordance with the factory reccomendations. No one would even dream of saying the same of the GTT /GTST's, they were cheap versions for the average joe public. Wrong again the Rb25 didnt come out till the R33 the RB26 was sold along side the RB20 in R32 guise so there for the production life of the motor is longer than the 25. * No mate. You are wrong again. The RB25 was offered in the R32 GTS as a Povo RB25NA. Im not talking about when the were designed as there were probably designed round the same time and the RB25 is just an RB20 with increased capacity and a few little extras etc but the motor is still younger in a production point of view. * No it isn't. for the above reason. The RB25 has it's heady origins as a budget NA option. * On top of all that the fact is the Rb26 was designed as a Group A motor. The RB25 was not.

adrians car is special in the same way as the 'special bus' is special I think low 12s on the factory turbo is do-able for the R33 if you get very serious.

Newer car = newer tech? * WRONG In areas you don't care about in the GTT. It lacks a great deal of technology compared to the R32GTR and basically is well down on tech features the GTR has that make the car good to drive. Newer suspension bits = good? *WRONG: The factory R32GTR springs and shocks offer much better for performance than the stocker GTT. Newer paint? * WRONG Thats a statement about condition. I have seen plenty of R32 original paint work that even today would be considered mint. GTR owners are more likely to care for the vehicle I find. Newer engine? * WRONG Again a statement about condition. The RB25 is as old as the RB26 but, is so much less of a motor. Thats whats attractive about new cars? * Invalid. The GTT is NOT a NEW car it's a second hand one that is at least 7 almost 8 years old. 99.9% of GTR's not in factory condition? * Due to GTT's being at least 7 to 8 years old neither are they, it's a second hand market. Assuming more GTTs are closer to factory condition is just that, an assumption not a fact. Nissan engineers never going backwards? * They went back to 2WD technology on the GTT model as one example, heavy steel guards and bonnet, single turbo, single throttle body etc.... 350rwhp GTT? * can't get the power to the ground on the road in the dry * can't get half of the power to the ground on the road in the wet * You need a 'Built' Rb25 to live at that power level for any long period of time * You need to upgrade everything from fuel pump / injectors / turbo and the list goes on to even achieve it 350rwhp GTR * With very little mods you can make this power on a stock engine/ turbos /injectors. * The engine will happily live with the power * You can actually put the power to the ground in the dry * You can actually put the power to the ground in the wet That makes the 350rwhp R32 GTR a more comfortable , faster and more enjoyable car to drive. If you wanted more than that an R32 GTR is more suitable too.

daily car for nerds = hyundai daily car for people who love cars = R32 GTR * I drove one as a work car for 3 years, Group A turbos, cams etc.. very tractible and easy going. * Better than a GTT as you don't have to worry about spirited driving during winter. Unlike the GTT that makes an R32 GTR a car for 'All Seasons' * I got 450+kms to a tank of fuel, A few friends running the d-jetro power FC's have got as many as 600kms. * for those questioning the longevity my old R32 GTR had covered almost 250,000kms before it need a freshen up. Seen plenty of rooted RB25's at much lower kms and far lower power levels. The Rb25 is a glass jaw engine when compared to the RB26. So really a Daily car for people who love cars with not much cash = R34 GTT. The newer car thing is bollocks, it's all about condition, there isn't anything in new attractive technology in the povo'pack GTT. By that theory alone a 2007 hyundai excel is better than an R34 GTR. The comparison is less extreme but, basically the same.

Good idea to start with a stockish car, prefferable is totally stock. how much power will that make?? GTR's can be a mixed bag in terms of the power they make in that form, if the boost restrictor is taken out they make enough power to go low 12's over the 1/4 driven well. what is standard boost?? 7-8psi what after market computers are good for this car and is micro tech a chance? Power FC. And yes but, no. Not unless you are stuck with a tuner who only knows microtech. how much does it cost to but and then install and how much is the tune?? Less than $1500 for the Power FC and $300 a tune, they are a plug in so sweet bugger all installing them, 10 min job. what are other relitivlly inexpensive way's of making power out of these cars after the computer is changed?? Relative to what? and what boost can i safely run on the standard turbo's 14psi and any other information you can give me will be great. Searching is your friend. And i tried to search GTR but nothing useful came up Your kidding aren't you? The plenum paint thing isn't worth looking at too hard, it's not going to tell you anything meaningfull. My old GTR had no paint missing , not a scratch. 240,000kms into it's life, people were just carefull about brake fluid no doubt. Like any car have it checked out all over by an experienced GTR mechanic/workshop prior to handing over cash. It may save you many times the checkup amount in hidden issues discovered early. Big tip: ***** Performance cars cost money to own****** - anyone telling you different is a dumb-ass, we were all one of those once. - the more it performs the money it costs to own. A GTR has a lovely driving experience to offer, and the ride costs what it should. It's expensive but, really you get a bargain for what it does.

I had a R32 GTR as a daily driver. In fact it was a work car. I say that after driving a good example of both you will never entertain the notion that the R34 GTT is anything but a very slow puss bucket in comparison. The rest is all down to taste in looks, both interior and exterior.