rev210

five pages and still not closed? I vote for the tardis, it's got V-tec YO!

Is that like that Packer boy?

You are rebuilding the engine then with the oil restrictors etc? Because thats the fix you ultimately want to have piece of mind.

The oil control issue can put a damper on things, it's nice to have a motor with that sorted out. If you do a search there are a few threads on it regarding track use. The band-aid is to run extra oil. An oil cooler is a good idea. The tien suspension is ok, there are better options.

I appreciate that the Delvac 1 is fully synthetic. The reason for the discrepancy in price is most likely the ratio of detergent to synthetic oil content.Diesel fuel isn't too shabby as a combustion chamber / bore lubricant compared to petrol which isn't.The additional difference on a motor that runs high sustained rpm (unlike a diesel) is bearing life (mains and big end). I would suggest that spending $10 more to better protect an engine worth many thousands is always a good move. . The diesel oil is quite simply a very bad choice for a motor like the reving RB sixes in my opinion.All of the race engine builders I know (not that I know all that many) favour the petrol intended products bar none, this includes pushrod v8 guys. Proceed with caution, it hasn't taken the world by storm and there is a good reason for it.

I have used diesel oil in a petrol engine in the past to clean it out between oil changes, engine run at idle (V8 pushrod motors with lots of kms on them). With a motor thats run synthetic all it's life you would never require this. Because of the soot you need a high amount of detergent in a diesel oil but, there is a sacrifice in the percentage of this vs the actual lubricant in the mixture. That sacrifice is lubrication protection. Not to mention the additional wash down reaction between the petrol and the higher levels of lubricant in the diesel oil. Diesel puts alot of soot everywhere including the bores, so the diesel oil to suit washes it off better. Those same detergents help a little to pull fuel into the oil as a down side. This happens with any oil and it's one of the reasons to change oil regularly. If you have an engine that has large cams / poor mixtures off idle etc this by itself effects oil change intervals, rich mixtures mean shorter intervals. To put it another way; How much does your engine need cleaning Vs how much lubrication protection. Mobil 1 won't do a better job of performing in an RB if you bung in more detergents. My understanding is that Delvac will therfore need more frequent changes to remain effective in a petrol motor and I'm quite sure the level of lubrication protection is significantly down on it compared to fully synthetic oils designed for petrol engines. At basically the same cost as a fully synthetic oil actually designed for high performance petrol engines I think getting some delvac into the motor is a nice big step backwards and terrible value for money.

before it even sucks closed a decent rigid intake pipe will net you much less restriction. It's 5-7hp worth changing it without the sucking closed issue due to the crappy restrictive ribbed design. There has been testing with manometer and dyno to verify this some time back on the VL turbo stock intake, which looks pretty much identical.

You ought to be able to make more power from the Vortex 98, if the number is brought up by toluene. As for the fuel line perishing in a 1989+ skyline, I think thats rubbish. Toluene has no such effect. Ethanol in higher levels will cause some issues but, I'd say there would be less than 5%. Someone with a Power FC could easily take a look at knock readings and if tuned for BP 98 there should be a reduction in the readings with Vortex. You may even be able to add a degree or two of timing in the corrections setting without a change in knock levels , which of course means more power, if the balance of the octane number is boosted by tolunene. I have no issue with using either fuel, I have used both regularly without any concern.

Ahh... I see. I just found new evidence that supports 'conspiracy' , you were right! Also as some have argued for diesel oil to be used in petrol engines, I would like to add using premix two stroke oil into the 'arguably' a better choice bracket too as a replacement :laughing-smiley-014:

Errr.. no . Don't go putting diesel oil in your skyline is my advice and also that of the oil manufacturers. It's really not a consipracy.

Copper plugs even on large power engines.

Shame this thread doesn't have a poll to guess how many pages it gets to before being locked

This car IS the genuine article. You could buy a peice of crap condition R34 GTR for the same money. It would not go as fast, handle as well and by the time you did mod the thing to perform as well you have spent more than double the price. The car is for someone who wants to buy a peice of history.

My 2c ..... lock this thread.

big end bearings aka 'death knock'. The engine will not be running for too much longer if it is. Rebuild time.

The whole lag issue is missunderstood. Even without going into the realm of it, if you spend money on something that doesn't make your car go faster then we call that a waste of money? I would certainly look at the blitz/ARC or whatever once you decide you need a bigger turbo. Then you have an idea of the power goals and use for the car which will help you pick out the right brand/core type/size of intercooler.

Leave the stock intercooler there for now. Until you are ready to go large power upgrades (bigger turbo), then work out what you are aiming at purpose wise. The factory R34 intercooler offers better response over larger upgrade variants, the efficiency at your power levels can't really be improved on.

You understand when you rebuild one...properly.

They (GT-SS) ought to be the better choice compared to the 2530 when only aiming for 300rwkw as a peak. I think I've said before that i think an unopened R32 motor ought to stay around 280rwkw and do the rest of the tuning on getting the power up earlier. The less rpm / boost and peak power the better for your old engine. I know what you're thinking did he tune that unopened old engine to 280rwkw or 300rwkw? You know in all this confusion I can't remember myself....But seeing how this is an RB26 one of the most expensive rebuilds in the world, you gotta ask yourself a question....do I feel lucky? ...Well do you PUNK?

If the R32 GTR has an old motor , keep it under 280rwkw and prefferably make that under 7500rpm. Pick a turbo setup to suit.

I've seen the car in the flesh and it is stunning, drives excellent. Lag then the pooing of the pants experience. The asking price is reasonable for someone who is an enthusiast. Sure you can buy a bunky stocker R34 GTR for that money but, this thing is immaculate and it's taken the meanest looking GTR and made it look even meaner. I hope this thing stays in Perth once its sold, stationary it looks great but, going down the road is something else.

Power FC --- good idea. Sard 700cc injectors do bolt in, it's easy enough. A factory GTR pump direct wired does the job but, a new one isn't a bad idea. CAMS... If you are going to do cams, budget for some dyno time to get them right. Also buy new cam bolts , necessary gaskets, AND be ready to buy shims. Tomei cams are as bolt in as you get for a GTR but, worn shims on an old motor mean clearences might not be within factory range. You can get lucky, I was and so have a few others (then again I'm not sure if they checked the clearences) but, don't count on it. Shims can cost you a few bob if you end up needing them. Only down side to solid cams. Those cam gears will work with the tomei cams. I would consider the 260/256 setup for your goals and try and tune the power to reach the 300rwkw with the least amount of rpm and boost. The twin 260's will give you extra in the higher rpm but, you don't want an old motor working up in those rpm ranges to make more power than the old bearings are going to be happy with. Go the 'Poncam Type A' The 256 with the same lift will grant you enough overlap range to play with for really strong power under 7,000rpm (this is the area to spend your money on).For the first tune, I'd tell your tuner to lop off the power at 280rwkw and focus the tune on squeezing power out of the mid range , bringing it in earlier and trying to reach it with as little boost and rpm possible. It takes a strong will but, make it clear you don't want more power than ' x' but, more mid range and earlier power 'on'. The tuner will be most likely happy not to tune another hand grenade and you will probably drive off with a faster and more reliable car. Getting the extra 20rwkw is a walk in the park by comparison , usually a very small amount of tuning time. I'd drive the car with the 280rwkw for a little while and then go back when you have money to rebuild your old engine. Don't forget to do your suspension. It makes traction and a lower ET easier too.

Some real world info for you. the stock intercooler handles efficiently more boost than the factory turbo can safely put out. It flows reasonably and an R34 variant upto around 230rwkw. Do a search under Sydneykid and stock intercooler, to find his test data. It won't get even remotely 'heat soaked' if driven on a street / track senario at those power levels (ie: over 200rwkw). You can fit a better design of intercooler having said that, but like someone has already said get something thats the correct size for the job. My advice is to swap coolers once you have a turbo upgrade/ power plan worked out. Hope that helps.

Looks like a BOOSTD style Hiflow, low boost and cliff like power curve. VG30 rear housing and a highflow front wheel on the stock RB25 turbo.

If you can hear a ping there is a ping, using a knock sensor or mic or otherwise, it's pretty much the same thing / sound and if you keep sustaining it your motor blows up. Pretty simple. Toluene does not disguise the sound or action.