rev210

no. no and no.

If you just want a car to run low 13's / high 12's then you can spend less on another make for $15k. You just don't get the overall package that a skyline offers.

This is what people should be aiming for. 108mph terminals is what a real 200rwkw gives you provided your car is setup correctly.

I like the stinger myself , I had one not long ago running a turbo efi converted A14 in a datsun 1200 ute. Power numbers themselves aren't a measure of how good an ecu is, the setup is a complete pain in the ass compared to things on the market that have plug in abillity to suit the RB nissans. But If you like mucking around then why not? hows the fuel ecconomy on yours?

stinger is a great little ecu for a basic setup converting a car on a carby to an efi setup. For a nissan it's not a good move.

Go directly to jail. Do not pass go. Do not collect SAU respect.

If you go front mount you won't need a 600 x 300 x 75mm core for the stock turbo , it's alot larger than is needed. The sidemount R34 is great but, if you can't get one a smaller fmic core would be a better move than the 'bolt on boy favourite' 600x300 unit. www.are.com.au have various flow ratings on their intercoolers and some info to read. might help.

no you can't.

First off: There is no 'drop in cam/s' for the Rb26. If you mean doing it right. You need a new set of cam retaining studs and clearences will no doubt need a few extra shims. Along with the usual gaskets. As for lift without machining; 10mm lift requires removal of a little head material. I'd say a new set of heavier duty valve springs wouldn't be a bad move either. 9mm lift is about it. eg Tomei poncams. hope that helps

The cops will sticker you even with the CO2 setup, no doubt. Lot of trouble to go through to make your car look ricey. Pedestrians aren't that much trouble.

A 'well designed' split dump is superior to a bellmouth on an internal gate turbo like the stock R25 unit. Don't go buying a cheap ass one anf you will do well out of it. A long split section is the ideal.

Get caught with your nitrous kit attached on the road here in WA and recieve a fine and a red sticker. I can't see a purge kit scaring many people. Have you seen one activate it's definately not the 4th of july. Try a set of truck air horns or a starter pistol plumbed into a solenoid if you want to be a weirdo.

The design of a good cold air box has a few more complicated elements to it. As mentioned the positive pressure to feed the intake is important and makes a big difference at speed. Also the volume and internal design of the box is important. Other things too like bell mouths. Notice on the stock unit there is a bell mouth. In testing (although this isn't a very good bellmouth) removing it decreases power and fitting a better one yeilds a little more. The factory box isn't a shabby design at all. It can be improved on but, a pod in a cardboard cutout designed airbox is going to have a hard time matching it's power under speed unless there is some substancial thought gone into the design. Most of the average joes & julies who frequent thier local dyno , tune with the bonnet up and don't usually do any kind of road tune afterwards. If you really want a good tune for the last run do the final tweaks 'bonnet down'. It goes without saying a before and after is best done this way too for comparison. The typical claim of increased 'pod power' comes from this very common 'error'. Dyno's do struggle a little in replicating the airflow of a moving vehicle but, those big ass fans do a reasonable job with the bonnet down on even a mega beast, so give it a shot.

The GTR is an awfull lot of fun to own. At 300rwkw the 4wd makes it standout. Drive a good one and you will find yourself saying " this is what I want.." However all performance cars need $$$ to keep them going. The 'value for money' part is left behind once 300rwkw entered the mix. I owned an R32 GTR as a work vehicle and found it practical enough with the right amount of money budgeted for it's up keep. You need to chat to long term GTR owners and get a feel for the yearly budget required. PM me and I will give you my figures. Good luck with the search but, remember if you don't like it you can always sell it and start again. This is what we all do.

You know getting a fairly stock R33 manual running mid to low 13's on its 'factory' sized rubber is very easy. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=66556 here are a few things to look at. * replace the wastegate actuator with a factory one to test. * Check everywhere for air leaks, including all vacume hoses and the cheap ass intercooler core you bought. This is a pain is an ass but, in your case necessary. * Check your base timing settings, add a little timing. hope that helps

A before and after is what dyno's are good for. Now the car has a new turbo and more power than before it's time to see how much quicker it is. Thats the fun part and the bit that really tells you how well setup the car is. Unless you are a dyno queen of course

I fitted R34 Tomei cams to my old R32 GTR motor. You cut a slot in the R32 GTR CAS to fit the protruding ridge on the R34 exhaust cam. If you are handy with machining it's very easy.

Just put the turbine housing on your gas bbq and heat it up, takes 15min and it can be tapped off gently, if you don't have an oxy handy.

Interesting... is there any real data to support that? I always thought it was 5,00000000 to one in toyotas favour. This thread has real ultimate power ; www.realultimatepower.net

The heating of that pipe doesn't do much to inlet temps.

Last time I fitted that kit it came with two washers/spacers for the pulley from memory (R33 Kit) . I bolted mine to an R32 GTR motor but, swapped the alternator with an R33 one. worked mint.

I finally found the thread I was looking for about the DIY hiflow, saves me explaining it. Worth a sticky I think? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;hl=vq30+turbo

PM me.

There can be a massive difference between the car you love to drive now and one with 230rwkw in terms of how the car drives and comfort levels. For example lets take traction. At 230rwkw you are going to have an ice skating car on the factory tyres and suspension. You have 230rwkw and a car thats not easy to control under power. You are better off listing the things you like about the stock car and then the things you would like to improve. 230rwkw is nothing more than a number. 'Doing things' to your car ought to have a point. For example the adding of that Apexi pod you mentioned will see your car go backwards in power if you don't have a cold air box. After you spend the time and money on those two items you have got bugger all power gain for cash that would be better spent eslewhere. Then again if your goal is to have underbonnet 'bling' and/or you like to give police a reason to defect your car then why not? As suggested there are plenty of threads on this sort of thing so use the 'search' feature?

I am about to hiflow my RB25 turbo along the lines of a mod that has been done since almost the begining of this forum. It costs about $400. Retains the factory ball bearing cartridge. Gives you around 250rwkw with an aggressive mid range (more if you do some further mods). And at low boost. Retains the ceramic wheel keeping the rapid response but, modifications you carry out prevent the failure of it. Dyno graph of the original R33 GTST with this turbo on page 1.