rev210

cams need running in. The last set of tomei cams I put in I used some pentrite cam run in gunk as usual

Drops the engine bay temps on an R32 GTR by removing the rubber strip as evidenced by a few degrees drop in intake temp when I last measured it. The down side is fumes. The raising of the rear of the bonnet is well documented to assist in cooling on many vehicles, I have done it to a number of cars I have owned in the past. It doesn't fix overheating issues however and if thats the reason for doing it then it's not going to help, there is an issue with the cooling system that needs fixing.

I seem to recall going from one of those china cores to an ARE custom core a local circuit S14 (from memory, one of Hyperdrives customers) picked up 80+rwhp and dropped lap times (the ARE core was actually the same size or a tiny bit smaller). the horsepower was around 450rwhp or so. A good core makes a difference.

performance cars are money pits... many times quoted; cheap / fast / reliable ---------- pick two. If you are budget minded avoid a GTR or any car of similar performance.

I had some RS581's or group A turbo's on my old Aussie R32 GTR. with a set of 260 cams and the usual supporting mods you can get alot of power out of them, over 500hp at the tyres would not be out of the question. My graph is on the first page http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t93880.html This is a very de-tuned setup as the motor I was running was very very old. During the tune we had the power heading to 400rwhp at well under 6,000rpm at the same boost with a more agressive timing and fuel setup. We lopped the head of the power curve for reliabillity.

as per the original question, the retune may be benificial. The front mount will be of limited value if any to the stock turbo but, will help once you step up to a bigger unit as planned. Further to what sydneykid stated, a dyno is a bit lacking when it comes to high speed indications of both intake air draw /cold air feed and the intercooler performance. Thats what makes data logging and your own O2 wideband such a cool thing to have. I've always asked for my final tweaks done with the bonnet down on the rare trip to the dyno to try and help this out. Always results in a lower power figure but, I have found my cars always run more consistantly.

leave the intercooler in the shed for now, till you really need it or at least are close to the date you are going to the upgraded turbos etc..

300rwkw VY ? or 300kw HSV factory version? If its the factory 300kw motor version then you need about 175rwkw (in the real world*) to keep up maybe beat it by a nose, both cars driven reasonably well. 300rwkw VY is probably around 230rwkw-ish. Depends on a few other things as well like gearing. * by real world I mean that the car is making this power on the road as well as the dyno, bonnet 'down' dyno numbers.

Based on my 'real experience' I doubt he will hate going from an S15 to the R32 GTR if he's interested in how it drives. There are peice of crap examples of both cars to be found just as there are excellent ones. I have owned a few cars in my time and I'm on the second R32 GTR, I am ruined for life they are just a fantastic experience. Ownership does require some financial maturity, so you made a good call not getting one if you were a student at the time and it was going to be a daily driver.

I used to travel there fequently over a 6 year period for work. Kal has a great pub scene and err.............................. it's got good pubs, lots of them all of them one after the other on the same street. Warning liver and kidney damage There are some very nice street machines getting around the town and I believe there are a few imports now too. The locals are a good bunch generally, you will like it or hate it so hopefully you have a pay rise just in case

lots of money spent on that conversion but, sadly very bad value for money. Interesting all the same. Anyone have a conversion of the article from Thai?

Alloy blocks are used on 6,000hp+ engines. Alloy blocks are not an issue. This new engine block will be stronger than the Rb26.

Err...no. Although it appears that does work for some people I don't know that I'd give that one a crack unless you had a few spare stock BOV's. The mod involves little bit of a drilling, you should use a vice however to hold things while you drill though. Someone did post the instructions up some time ago. Will go for a search for you.

The stock BOV is very good. Modification to it costs less that an aftermarket one, basically free if you DIY. On a stcok turbo there is absolutely no performance point to the excersise, unless you like 'pa-chooo' sounds.

actually they are screwed and must provide the components at the stated price if they did not have any disclaimer (even then the disclaimer needs to be obvious otherwise the accc take you to town). Also if you are mis-charged on a bar code scan you get the item for free, it is the trade off for the obligation to price ticket every single item in a store. Supermarkets are the most common offenders.

SOLD to me!

As mentioned you want to go into a controlled environment and work it out from there. Getting out of trouble ,once in it, with the R32 Attessa is a little different to a normal drive car as well. The best thing in your favour right now is the fact that fear of it's unpredictable nature keeps you out of a coffin.

Billet cams are stronger. reground stock cams often have addtional material welded on introducing further weakness.

I doubt you are going to see much benifit, if any at all, from the phenolic gasket in the GTR application. Heat soak of all components underbonnet after shut down is a fact of life. The 80 degree temp reading on the inlet sensor is initially from static air inside the plenum that has been very slowly heated up, once the engine is started the air temp falls immediately and rapidly drops down to where it normally is when the engine is warm and the car stationary. The speed at which the temp drops is effected by the air temp the intake is sucking in so if you have unsheilded pods this will be slower than a sealed and cold air fed enclosure. This I checked again after reading Blue32's post today. The heat transfer to rapidly moving air of the relatively small surface area in the plenum isn't significant. However , phenolic gaskets work great on carby based applications where the fuel is carried in a fuel bowl and transfered heat can boil fuel causing vapour lock. Cooler fuel is a good thing.Unfortunately the liquid fuel transfers heat very well compared to air. It's up for debate as to whether insulating the fuel rail and lines in the engine bay would be of benifit, don't know about that one.

If you have unshielded pods / turbo's etc. those 'around town' temps are going to be 20deg + over ambient. I noticed a significant intake temp difference between pods and the stock airbox (after the intercooler). I also saw a few extra degress drop by removing the rubber strip at the windscreen side of the underbonnet, a mod similar to raising the rear of the bonnet (without the hassle).

in the right side in front of the front wheel well as suggested, you can easily make a duct for it and cut a few holes behind it in the wheel well dust guard to allow air flow.

They aren't a waste of money actually. You basically gain no power at all with intertia reduction, you do gain very substancial accelleration however and in the case of lightweight rims better handling and stopping abillity. If you want to inform yourself better about lightwieght tailshafts for GTR's , particularly for drag racing (as mr centre bearing gets quite upset on launches), then there are a few guys on the forum who can clue you in on whether they are a waste of money. Justinfox has one from memory. If money is your hang up (better sell your GTR if it is - joke) just for you there is a cheap'o option with the single peice tailshaft offered by UAS, $495 exchange and drops 5.5kg's off the weight. The response gained by dropping the weight from these items makes the car more enjoyable to drive and doesn't add to wear like extra horsepower so it's hardly a waste on a road car.

I think it's encouraging to look at the increasing oppertunities for young people to get into inexpensive motor sport events these days. Drift , track, drag, AHG , MC etc. events are more accessible. I am all for encouragment and re-directing youthful energy into the right place (race track) just as we have seen a large number of skate parks being built. As much as I can understand what drives a very small minority of the young and occasionally more mature drivers to want to 'cut sick' (I used to be a young %#$@ doing many of the same stupid things once), I would rather see your ass locked in jail and/or with your car crushed given the choice between that and one of my family members injured or worse dead. There is also no " only hurt yourself " senario either. You cost the tax payer for the mess and worse people who may care about you. There is also no 'safe public road-race' except for the 'safer' official races ,on roads that are temporarily no longer 'public', like the Gold Coast Indy car/ Clipsal 500 etc... The mere fact that it's a 'public road' means that if you are unlucky in some back road in the hills you may just hit a local drivng home from shift work. You might say " what are the odds of that happening? " , well they are improved by taking yourself out of the numbers.

If the goal is mid 11's then you won't really need any more than 280rwkw on a tune that is focused on a wide power band. On a stock motor the less rpm / boost and power you need to throw it at the better, it just makes the odds of the un thinkable that much lower. Think of it as more peice of mind when you ring it's neck, makes things more fun. Lets not forget good tyres. * The smaller frame SS/ -7's would do the job being capable of over 300rwkw. * A set of tomei cams, adjustable cam gear. Some extra dyno time to set cam timing to bring the power curve down. Lop off the top end peak as a trade for mid range. * Full exhaust Then I would be spending a few bucks on response mods, these are not 'power gaining' although these increase accelleration; * lightweight rims * lightweight flywheel /clutch assembly * Carbonfibre tail shaft * Lightweight ATI/Ross balancer * Electric thermo fan * Greddy pully kit

Compare a supra to a gtst ? Why yes...yes I am. Both are RWD and both are about the same accelleration wise from the factory. A similar amount of money gets you pretty much the same performance in a straight line. For a balanced sumary; Corners? Gtst > Supra Stopping? Gtst > Supra Reverse parking? Gtst > Supra Looks? Supra > Gtst Cheaper to fix a broken motor? Supra > Gtst (at least if you are not talking Rb20) It appears you agree he should test drive the cars anyway.Thats something we agree on. Bias wise I notice 99% of all your posts on this forum are stating toyota superiority as opposed to unbiased contributions.making this forum more........biased?