rev210

so your saying you ran 100,000kms on 1 bar?

And by that you mean using the stock one at factory boost, right? My boost control was as good as you get. 14psi on stock 'old' ceramic GTR turbos = gambling with your motor. I seem to recall this sort of thread coming up in the distant past with a large number of examples of turbo failure experience poping up in it.

I had one go at 12psi, it hurt the rings on piston 3 too. Leave them the hell alone, sure there are people who punt about with 14 psi but, there are lots of people who did that and had to rebuild an Rb26 (not a cheap experience). Consider low boost a cost saving measure so you can save for replacement GT-SS/N1/'insert steel wheel turbo type here'

A stock cat! There's your problem, no doubt it's a second hand one too.

cool.

I rather have a hennessy viper than either of those two. The SSC and Ultima's have poo interiors for the mega dollar price tag. And they are powered by a chev

Thats the 353kw unit doing the 7:38. It might go faster on a completely dry track, 7:38 was with some wet areas of the track. Thats fast enough at any rate to give it some cred.

Nah they should pile in 4 guys and load the boot with beer and try to replicate it again. Or maybe beat the Cayman S time towing a caravan?

http://www.nissan.co.jp/MS/TOKYO2007/E/index.html click gtr detail to watch the video of it.

Maybe not. There could be other issues, like a blocked cat. Do you have a dyno with AFR's to post up at all?

Slow=fun? you can still bash the gear selector up and down like a sequential, no clutch pedal. from the GTR website; Fully automatic shifting or full sequential manual control via gearshift or steering wheel-mounted paddle shifters.

Some answers; Was the dyno run for power done with the bonnet up? Do you have a pod filter without a heat sheild? If the answer is yes to both I think you are experiencing less power on the road/track then you see on the dyno. Also the KKr turbo's tend to suffer a little from lag, resulting in lower average power. Average power is king not peak power. Robo's HKS equiped car with 300rwhp would have had a notably fatter power band than your KKR making the average power higher and the car faster over the 1/4 mile (with a higher terminal). For comparison my 175rwkw r33gtst ran 13.3 @106mph on a fairly hot day with a 2.3 60ft. Stock intercooler/turbo(10psi) and ecu with S-afc. With a stock ecu and that turbo you might be asking for trouble given the timing map would be unsuited to the KKR curve. Probably worth getting a S-AFC or an ecu upgrade soon.

I think an alloy indy maxx mopar block is more respectfull, twin turbo'd one of those in street trim does low 8's in a 69 dodge charger / sherman tank. Drives to and from the track for good measure. I am trying to convince my brother to lean this way with the 69 charger we are restoring at the moment, admittedly it's a few dollars to do. At least the alloy V8's like the LS1 and above are lighter than an RB block.

the R34 N1 is about the size of the GTSS.

cause really good turbos are the cheap ones... A turbo failure can root up your engine as well. Still want to take the risk?

slow is GAY. DSG is faster than a conventional manual so the conventional manual is the new GAY.

heat soak of a side mount is a dyno booth symptom, it doesn't occur on the road to this extent. The dyno fans whislt powerfull don't simulate the airflow of higher speeds and are usually pointed directly at the radiator, hence a fmic suffers less issues. Intake temps take a while to climb on a standard turb/standard smic o in road going conditions, a fmic takes much longer to see increases of course but, unless you are circuit bound a fmic upgrade is not going to help if you already have an R34 smic. as always final tune & power runs are best 'bonnet down', then it's time for a road tune to finish off. I'd be keeping the R34 unit myself till turbo upgrade time or your car is ready to go circuit racing.

is your glass half empty then?

Seems the top speed claim is just shy of 200mph based on the latest info floating about. the 11.7 1/4 mile isn't shabby either, makes for a good modification platform in terms of a starting point. I wonder if they are using the variable vane turbo technology on this one?

As mentioned the sustained high rpm/power/ drivetrain load and heat of track racing means everything gets worn out much faster. Race motors longevity are often rated in 'hours' not kms. Another RB issue which will always get a mention is oil surge, particularly running good brakes and tyres. You can't easily escape it and if you asking what needs addressing on your motor then this issue is top of the list for track work. There is a thread on this with a 'how to' aspect, written by sydneykid The idea of bunging in a breather tank is a very good one with high rpm use as if you aren't running an N1 pump and/or an underdrive water pump pulley you are at risk of cavitation, which has the potential to lunch your motor in fairly quick time once it starts. You will still need to keep the rpm down if you don't have the N1 pump or pulley prefferably. Airguides and ducting for all coolers is a must do. Don't be tempted to throw away fan shrouds when you upgrade the radiator and fabricate a shroud for your intercooler as well and you will pick up a fair whack of efficiency. The bottom end at sustained high rpm experiences increased harmonic issues that effect things like cap walk for main and rod bearings so a good set of fasteners are the go regardless of forged or preped stock rods are used. I'm sure there are a few more guys kicking around who campaign Rb25's in circuit or drift that can add a few more specifics.

the ARE guys will make you a custom sized core, thats whats really good about them. (www.are.com.au)

The standard GTR intercooler isn't shabby at all, pretty good core design and pretty much perfect end tanks. I invested in a custom ARE built intercooler after changing to group a turbos and it certainly was significantly better than the stock unit with the bigger turbos. www.are.com.au If you throw away the idea that the cars purpose has anything to do with intercooler selection then you lower your odds of getting the best.

it's a restrictor

I don't know if you remember the old $350 turbo 250rwkw thread but, it works when you have a compressor that sits right on the surgeline with a certain amount of boost. It works well to a point. The $350 turbo had a very impressive power curve for what it was, it's not the best way to build a turbo however.

If the compressor wheels are upgraded this mod helps to eliminate surge. Probably the case.