rev210

definately * get adjustable cam gears. * degree wheel check the cams initial timing. * alter timing and fuel maps for every adjustment made to the cams at the dyno. * unless you have a 'clone motor', cam timing seldom ends up exactly the same as another engine. * you can alter the shape of the power graph massively with adjustments to cam timing and appropriate alterations to timing and fuel maps, this is a good thing to have access to exploit it! * a good cam install and setup can take plenty of time to do right the first time (again if your motor isn't a clone of someones that has already done the hard work).

Changing the cam timing is not a simple thing. Saying this cam timing for x motor and so on is misguided. There are lots of variables. It isn't somthing you can approach with a 'bolt on boy' attitude and expect to always have a win.

I think if you ask SK, he's going to tell you the same thing. His comment reffered to a particular cars setup ,one totally different to yours. It was a Neo motor for a start. Even if I owned a neo engine I certainly wouldn't assume that 0 and 0 are right for an application where turbo selection and high stalls are involved. Engine loads on the new stall will play a part in changing the game. Always explore cam timing changes no matter what engine, you can do so much to the power delivery by altering it. Having said that if you didn't alter the timing map significantly for the new cams then there is no question you have a massive issue right there. It is critical to good power with the larger duration,lift and overlap cams you have especially up top in the rpm. My guess is you are going to end up with quite a bit of adjustment on the cam timing given the airflow target is above 300rwkw. I'd expect to see as much as 100hp+ peak power or so improvement over the stock units at the same boost once they are setup right.

The cams 'will' require adjustment and when you do adjust them you need to alter timing and fuel maps to suit. The timing map you had of the stock cams will not work well at all for example if applied to the new ones. You 'must' invest in adjustable cam gears if you have not already, at least on the exhaust side. The cams will increase the engines airflow capacity without question if setup correctly, that is the good news.

one of these will drop a few kgs off the rotational mass and it's cheap too. http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/General...cetailshaft.jpg

post the vid of ice being beat up by Willis (what you talkin about...) from different strokes, celebrity boxing.

The Tb48's are excellent engines for a turbo. Better than the baby RB's Go the 5.15L straight six stroker! http://www.briancrower.com/makes/nissan/tb48.shtml

Not going to happen unless the GTR is un well. Not hard to have a fairly stock R32 GTR running low 12's. As for smashing the GTR off the lights... well we all know that only happens on the drag strip with slicks on. Having owned both the GTR and R33 gtst I can say the former offers a different driving experience... a far better one. However $6k is about 3 years of a regular GTR maintence budget, thats just to keep it running. Having a GTST makes for cheaper long term ownership. It just isn't a GTR at the end of the day but, neither is the monthly bill. Plenty of people buy GTR's and soon find out that they can't actually afford to run them. Don't let people suck you in just on how great GTR's are without looking at the real money they cost you. I now drive an R32 GTST for the record, I like what it does for the budget.

It depends on whether you have the headroom in timing and AFR maps. If you already have a good tune in place with AFR's in the 12's then I'd leave it till you get to a dyno. The change in cam timing can alter the AFR's at some point in the rev range. If you had something to measure the AFR and knock you'd be ok to give it a red hot go.

satanic, I tried to look up the specs on the F-con Pro and it doesn't seem to have anything that stands out over the ultimate version of the emanage? It seems to be quite decent as an ecu. But, it also seems to cost more and since you don't get to own the tuning software you can't data log at home and your stuck with a tuner who has. I'm interested in the claim that it is the most favoured ecu in japan. What data do you have to support that claim? It's just I don't seem many imports coming in with F-con aftermarket ecus vs other types, granted a couple but not the majority.

The emanage ultimate can be used with a wideband O2 sensor and has an AFR target map function for it. It also has 8 data logging channels using it's own on board memory and 30 when hooked up to a PC. and maps for individual cylinder adjustment of ignition and fuel. Looks like they added a fair bit of fruit to it. http://www.trust-power.com/overseas/produc...n_ultimate.html

The shape of the curve looks pretty normal to me for those mods. Who cares about the peak power value. Wait......a dyno princess would, seems we still have plenty about on these forums these days ... My car is so tough on the dyno....drive it?...oh no why would I care about that?

you don't 'need' a lightweight balancer. It will however give you faster accelleration, 2.1kg or so is nothing to sneeze at for a reduction in rotational mass off the front of the crank. You get performance and accelleration without a fuel or wear penalty. These sorts of mods do eventually pay for themselves by comparison to the blunt approach to power only for the same accelleration gain. No big deal if you don't do it, pretty much most people ever give it any thought.

Just to add also that if your fluid clutch fan fails or cracks and falls appart you will find it harder to get a replacement in the middle of nowhere. If you have a generic thermo fan, you find every auto shop flogs them in every town.

No. There is only a crap install/ crap products not poor concept. You save power because they are not 'on' when there is enough airflow being pushed through the radiator, usually this is when you want extra power. The alternator is quite large on RB engines, unless you have a doof doof stereo its fine. If you have a doof doof stereo then you probably already have a bigger alternator. The wiring doesn't get hot, the relays don't fail, neither do the temp sensors. Had plenty of thermo fans on various cars and none ever gave me the woops. If you have had a bad experience I can only suggest that if you associate them (thermo fans) with being on all the time that meant whoever set it up did so incorrectly.

Didn't say that. The benifits are quite worthwhile since they directly effect the accelleration of the car. Every little bit helps and with the balancer you get reliabilltiy and bling to boot. Have a look at the budget and see what they cost. The balancer will net a decent gain, the smaller pulleys less so. While your at it lose the belt driven fan and go electric.

The Ross balancer is 2 or 3 kg lighter than stock unit. The reduced inertia on top of a better balancer for high po applications is better than a poke in the eye. By going billet alloy for the alternator , water pump and power steering pulleys you drop a kg or so there too, and it looks 'bling'. Trust/greddy do a kit alternatively for the same money I'm sure you could get a local machine shop to make a set based on a stock set.

Up until recently I thought the special-ness of the Nissan coolant came from the 10mg/kg dentatonium benzoate, like Castrol. Until I found this is only a bittering agent used to prevent people ingesting antifreeze. By law this chemical has to be present in certain countries in any anti freeze sold, though not in Australia. You need to achieve the Nissan Glycol levels reccomended at any rate, going el-cheapo can mean issues with concentrations. The glycol levels drop when exposed to sunlight which is why I buy Castrol 350 concentrate, to ensure the levels haven't dropped while sitting around in some freight yard for a week.

Noticed UAS are now doing one piece tailshafts; http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/priceli...ylineclutch.htm Saves a good 5.5kg over stock. Anyone tried it yet?

The rear cradle nuts can be taken off and using a big bar you can wedge a setcion at a time open to pop the bushes in before doing it all back up. If you have two people it works easier and requires less muscle.

Al, good to hear you have the whiteline kit. It's an excellent balance for multipurpose use. For drag racing it's a lot better than stock suspension ,which isn't completely hopeless. Where people go belly up in street/drag setup is going too hard with shocks/springs, ironically the same people who have these 'circuit style' coilovers can end up with something that handles worse than stock in every environment. Takes only 15min to change the pinapples to 'drag' setting for a day at the track. Swap them back when you go home.

No my friend theres not a lot. Simple instruction is all thats needed and a bit of practice. The guys that launch at 8,000rpm and have too much wheel spin, like most, have never bothered to get advice or even experiment. Thats got nothing to do with driver skill but, rather just plain simple process applied to a small amount of practice. Thats really quite an encouraging thing because it's got nothing to do with your gene's. Al, Robo's car has IRS like yours, so basically the suspension setup is the same. To help you get more traction you can't look past what is one of the most overlooked and yet most effective mods : PINEAPPLES ! --- these little $100 beauties will give you a big improvement in grip, so slap them on if you haven't already. Drag racing is always lots of fun even when you don't get the greatest times. Having a 'fun' attitude to it usually sees you do better times since you aren't all uptight about it.

M's Pods Alloy extension adaptors , funnel style for better air flow. Stainless mesh filters giving maximum flow. Easy to clean $200 Perth. email [email protected] or PM

I think people need to move past 'driver skill' and take a good hard look at how poor the setup they run is for drag racing. The 'driver skill' argument is used by people the world over when they don't want to see something wrong with the car setup. Like I said though wheel spin can be fun too, and drag racing is just plain good fun no matter what.

Set your car up and it's easy to run 12's with 200rwkw odd, hell my old bunky was capable at only 170rwkw odd (and it wasn't well setup really). One method is to throw power at it and nothing else. This is lots of fun even though you don't get the most out of the car from a time perspective. It requires progressively more skill as the power goes up as the car becomes harder to control. Remember this is lots of fun But the driver skill becomes more of an issue to stay off the barrier. This is the case with big power cars that teeter on the line of having a setup to cope with the power. And all the fun of the fair for drag GTR owners who are trying to stop the car from kissing the concrete. The other method is to set the car up better in terms of suspension and things to make the most of the power you have. The interesting thing is you then don't need as much driver skill. The skill comes back in when you play bracket racing and you are trying to get the timing right. Overall a well setup car with 200rwkw is going to romp a 12 in consistantly. With simple instruction a new driver can step in and do the same. Thats a good sign you have it right.