rev210

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Yeah! NOS is for stupid cheater idiots! So you NOS people think you have a fast car? Well it's not fast all the time like a real fast cars is! I always drive my fast car fast all the time cause I'm a real hero. Not like those NOS pretenders who only go fast when they are drag racing. They don't even fill their boot with cement and they don't replace their bonnets with lead ones like us real modifiers. Cheap performance pffft! cheap! Bastards!

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Well you may have upgraded cams, if the turbos have been upgraded to something bigger then it's probably the case. I don't think there is any marking on the factory cam at all from memory. Even if you know you have cams you still don't know what size they are until you measure the lift and duration. You can do that though and then you really know what you have regardless of brand.

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Do you have an aftermarket ecu fitted? Do the cams have adjustable aftermarket cam wheels? If the answer to both these questions is no, then it is likely you have stock cams.

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yo!

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Have some time up your sleave to play with the jets on the dyno, the NOS reccomended ones are only a guide and a very blunt one at that. The topracing dyno and wideband will take out the guess work. Just remember to have plenty of extra fuel supply on the fuel pump side of things.

Given up on getting the stock turbo to tens? Nitrous fixes everything...breathe deeply and again, o n e....m o r e.......t i m e...

The compression on my old R32 GTR was 160psi just about dead on with all cylinders except one at 100psi. To check out a piston with lowish compression pour a few cc's (mls) of oil into the cylinder via a small funnel (you only need a little oil, too much is very very bad and may damage things). Let it sit for a few minutes. If the compression on that cylinder shows marked improvement once re-tested to the order of 25psi or greater you probably have worn rings. That motor was 250,000kms old or so. And the bang on compression between cylinders is perhaps testimony to the fact that the aussie engines were blueprinted from the factory, unlike the jap domestic ones.

No Roy, You are right about over-caming the motor ,the main issue is going over the top on the inlet side with such a small turbo. The R34 Neo motors have a better profile set of solid cams than the hydro- R33 ones. I used step 1 HKS 264deg 9mm lift exhaust cam and the factory inlet.

Hi Steve, I too have used redline shockproof for many years. On shagged syncro gearboxes. When the syncros are worn badly the shift quality sucks, it's still sucks after adding redline it just doesn't make crunching sounds. I find on draining the oil after the regular interval there is plenty of metal content to confirm wear is still occuring at higher than normal levels. The problem is that when you have a car that has this many untidy issues, it's likely the syncros crunch because the gear oil wasn't changed at regular intervals, like alot of skyline owners are guilty of. That means not only are the syncros worn but probably the shift forks and everything else. Like I said $100 doesn't solve the problem, being worn gearbox. What it does do is take away a symptom ,which is a good thing but, like a cold tablet it's only masking the problem.

I used to have a before and after graph, it was about 15-20hp up in the mid range. The top end was improved also but, without access to the timing maps (S-AFC II) the top end had to be left alone. I picked the HKS exhaust cam as it was spec wise pretty close to some advice I got from someone in the cam making game.

A mild set of cams allow the same power to be produced earlier in the rev range, with less boost required to achieve it.

I did the exhaust cam upgrade (HKS grind) only on an old gtst I had and it worked quite well even with only a S-afc II on a factory turbo. It resulted in a fat mid range, with a power FC and more tuning it would have produced even more.

The fuel and ignition maps need a rework, so you need a power FC or something similar. They do not work like standard in the low rpm and idle area in terms of mixture. Gaskets/seals for the top where the cams live. You will also need a set of new retaining studs as the old ones may break either down the track of when re-torquing them. You would do well to obtain cam gears at the same time as mentioned too. What tomei cams do you plan to buy and why?

heat shield the pod filter (you are sucking in hot air) or revert back to factory airbox with K&N / pipercross filter etc. If it's not an auto , a better clutch than factory is going to be needed. Pineapples - diff cradle bushes. A good set of tyres is also worth a thought if you have crappy ones. Leave the fmic alone till you are ready to decide what sort of engine package you want to develop.

you don't really notice at all if you just crawling through traffic or sitting still. The current draw on the big fans is under 30amp. It's only on when the airflow isn't sufficient at low speed, once underway it cuts out. I found the 16 inch on the GTR got me a degree or two under the clutch fan temps as an average.

Ha ha ,I don't think I ever really raced any skyline at the drag strip, in the sense that the car I drove at any time was actually remotely fast (although the old nitrous'd gtst ran into kangaroos before getting there even once before adrian ended up with the cursed equipment). In the recent years of skyline ownership I have tried my best to avoid the place lest it suck me back into it's evils as it did many years ago. My time will soon come, the 4 small children in my house need to grow up and I have resolved to do it properly once the time arrives. In the mean time I get to watch from the sidelines and make stupid comments

Wow! A thread full of people with dreams of racing purification? Racing is (as far as the car used) all about getting dirty. It's all about loop holes ,not getting caught , looking good,bad or ugly and most importantly for some being a shite-stirrer (ala holden powered fords etc.) Street and racing are two words in an unhappy marriage, full of infidelity. The street racer , usually has that one vehicle acting as both the race car and the transport. It's a class born out of natural frustration. If asked the question most of the guys worth talking to would trade the regular road/drag car for a spot on a topfuel team as a driver. They kind of realise where the end point is. Lots of them retire the road/drag car and get a dedicated one at some stage down the track (once the light bulb goes on). Or they just pack it all in. These are the sort of truths to understand before you can get anywhere. I won't get started on nitrous use, I can't stop once I do. It's all good. I look forward to the kind of 'real' street car racing that california is sure to have running soon....electric and hybrid drag cars are it man! Nothing like the furious rumble of an electric car smoking the tyres........ action plus! At the end of the day some people are obsessed with the " How fast can you go in a slow car " Because in drag racing categories street car classes are the slowest...ok maybe the peewee dragsters are but, they are only little kids and they have an excuse. I don't want to see slower cars. So if you are talking to me with the idea of slowing someones car down for the sake of ideals then you are clearly not part of the racing family, you might be a bastard son tho'.

get a leak down test done. Those last compression figures aren't flash at all. This is more so if it's an RB25det. This motor is in need of a future rebuild for sure but, like everything it's how soon. It's important not to lean on this engine for big power increases given it's pretty tired. The mechanics are correct in saying that the motor might last a while longer, if you don't thrash it. 4th gear is syncros, an easy fix by either buying a new gearbox or fixing that one. $1.5k Don't listen to the old 'just slap redline in it...' thats not a fix it's a mask. The description you have given paints the picture of a bunky. If its a bunky price then you know what you are in for. If it's not mega cheap then don't fool yourself. Put the onus of fixing those things on the owner. $2k doesn't buy a rebuild installed and tuned.