rev210

The factory GTR twin BOV's are about the best setup you will ever get in terms of performance. They are not fussed with extreme amounts of horsepower. Of course if you like pachoo --- pachoooo sounds then you might want to change them. $600 to change them? keep the money for something you will really enjoy. Like $600 worth of beer.

How to read plugs, still need to know this one even if you can tune efi with a wideband. http://www.4secondsflat.com/plug_chart.html

The efi forum is here; http://www.efi101.com/forum/

I noticed you reffer to cam timing postition in the first post. Setting the cam timing is a bit of a bugger. The cam timing itself has a relationship to timing and fuel and as a result it's influence on other things makes it a tad tricky to setup. Start another thread on the cam turbo setup you have in performance, or PM me and I'd be happy to give you my 2c. I had tomei cams setup on both standard GTR turbos and group A

No, even if you are a multi millionaire and say own a formula 1 team with the worlds best mechanical engineers and pit mechanics (thats experience and knowledge for you) you get burnt. Because the second law of thermo dynamics is something you can't get away from among other things. Formula 1 engines get 'lunched' among everything else that often breaks, why would you think a car with far less behind it would be any different even better in terms of doing things perfectly? When you eventually learn how to tune your car yourself (years from now) and are just swiping the credit card for parts and not service you will tell me how right I was. Over the years I've rebuilt engines ( including ported rotories - thats asking for it ) and pretty much had a go at most mechanical areas on my cars over the years. And like anyone who has done the same you get shafted by some bastard unforseen gremlin because you chose to increase the factory power output 20+% over standard and try to drive it in the enjoyment zone. If you can accept the facts , you allow for them stategically so to speak and learn phrases like "...well thats racing ". Put aside some of the car budget to buy some emergency beer and have a few mates with the same disease who can offer consolation over an emergency beer. Places like these forums are good resources to get info you need to start breaking...errr I mean tuning and upgrading your own fast car.

Before people even get to the soap box of performance car tuning and the workshops I usually hit them with 1001 reasons why owning a performance car is a mental illness. Things go bang on formula 1 cars and all manner of very expensive motorsport pursuits have a very sizable share of bad tune days and 5km down the road breakage. All this not for the lack of money or people who work thier ass off to have a car perform. If you really like performance cars a DIY approach will cost you time and money (mistakes) but, will over time replace much of the work required by a 3rd party. However contrary to popular belief there is no 'cheap' when it comes to fast cars). Yep it's painfull, quit the whole thing with cars till it's too late.

Learn to road tune with a good wideband as a starting point.

use the reccomended amounts. octane boosters can cause issues with the O2 sensors if you use too much.

Sorry disagree about the poncams not benifiting 'greatly' from being able to alter the cam timing with adjustable gears.Along with many others I have experienced the benifit of doing so on both stock and group A turbos on the RB26. In partnership with adjustments to the timing and fuel maps changes can be made to the power curve and boost response.

designed to run on stock ecu map ------> no gain power on stock ecu? -------> no will plugs foul very quickly using standard ecu and these cams ------> yes will fuel ecconomy be crap using standard ecu -------> yes Should I get a power FC first ---------> yes Also on the HKS cam gear wearing out myth. How many worn out HKS cam gears has anyone seen, can we count 30? if not its not even statistically valid. I say nothing wrong with them in fact they are alot easier to adjust than the tomie ones too, I've had both I'd personally buy the HKS ones or something similar next time round (2c)

batteries plus in osborne park. I got a very small big amp one from them a while ago.

those of us with serious performance car disease will need a run about that is either quick or indestructable or a $100 burnout car (so you have the budget to keep buying them every 3 months). Sensible daily driver thy name is FRUSTRATION !

datsun 1200 ute, worked a14 turbo, intercooler etc. Still pretty cheap to run except for maybe occasionally blowing up a little $50 gearbox that you can carry in one hand, and destruction to tyres. The old other car was the V8 Volvo station wagon, I still miss it , so much fun...

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you probably don't have a leak. But if you do you will be able to smell the leak at idle in the driveway when you check under the bonnet or under the car.

leave the smic for now. Take the inner wheel well plastic off behind the exsisting factory intercooler, it helps air flow through it. As others have suggested a good exhaust is a nice first mod. It might even increase fuel efficiency.

keep your money, maybe invest it. You don't just slap a big turbo on, other things are going to cost you. Work out a plan for the car. then save and work towards a total solution. You avoid 'bolt on boy' syndrome this way.

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Hmmm.... you are starting to sound reasonable. Stop it at once ! But, really taking some time to think it through is worth alot of time and money in the long term. There are plenty of quite slow R33's out there mainly due to owners being 'bolt on boys'.

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I used the penrite 'sin' fully synthetic in an old GTR and it's not great. Stick to castrol/mobil 1/motul etc. synthetic

20 bottles? Sell them all and never ever use them in your skyline.

Maybe done a few extra kms on top of the 23,000 kms only because; * that sort of corrosion build up takes a little while. * that corrosion indicates water/moisture presence. * Your first set of factory platinums from nissan would still be installed. * The spark plug cover would be installed still. Why take it off if it's only 23,000km new? The plugs look like they have been subjected to a lean burn, maybe even a ping or three. Has the enigne been dyno'd with AFR's read? Wait....untuned Power FC and fanging the car to the level of a destroyed clutch. Go directly and get the Power FC tuned. And 'nanna' the car around instead of giving it stick till you do.

MrBlonde doesn't have to go anywhere for emmissions testing to be classified 'street legal'. And because the government isn't interested in finding his car to be illegal, it's present state of registration is one of validation. I don't see any proof that it doesn't comply with emmissions, so I guess it's legally emiting copious amounts of noxious fumes. Shame on the goverment for not testing his car and putting right the injustice! Mind you this is Australia and we did tell the kyoto agreement to stick it. What a country! how about those tyre wrinkles!

Hmmm.... It's a drag strip not the street isn't it? So a street car when driven on the drag strip is then treated as a race car for that purpose. The governing bodies change with the environment change from road to track. RTA to ANDRA. Last I checked all street tyres bar purpose made drag radials (that aren't very safe in normal wet weather road conditions) are not designed for drag strip use. The manufaturers might even go as far as to say they are not the 'safe' choice. It starts to become a silly argument. Why not add... "It's not a true street 1/4 mile because there aren't green bins on the side of the road and it doens't have pot holes". care factor = 0