rev210

As a matter of fact the factory of 'Autech' is not a real factory but, more of a workshop and they are not 'Nissan' or a division of that company. They are also a rare breed because they are crap compared to the R33 GTR, in fact I seem to recall a number of them 'rusting away' somewhere because people didn't want to buy them.

Like moths to the flame. Clearly 4 doors is not enough for some, these same 4 door people secretly lament that there is no 5 door skyline (ie: 4 doors + hatchback). This 5th door is reffered to as a 'backdoor', that is what these people clearly are after. It's like they NEED doors on a car, when we all know they are nothing but a hinderence placed there by our nanny state for people ,who like little children, are frightened easily and usually can't drive. They wreck it for the rest of us who have the common sense not to fall out of a moving car by holding on. You have a seat belt what else do you need? Perhaps thats why Nissan didn't release any 4 door RB26 powered sedans. They knew their market for the 4 doors was wimps who would be afraid of the extra power. I say start with burning 4 door skylines, then the rear seats in 2 door skylines and finish by throwing away all car doors!

Never use the words 'cheap' and 'conversion' together ever. Save for the 'real' car, it is far cheaper and wastes less of your time.

I used the 16 inch davies craig thermo. It is easily as good as the factory fan and fits in the shroud with very little modification. The key is to retain the fan shroud or make up a new one, otherwise the fans aren't as efficient at drawing air through the radiator.

I'm afraid the only places quoting mid 14's are 'guessing' there is no actual 'test' that I've been able to find as yet. The 6.5 second claim is a factory one too. same weight and 70kw not to mention 130nm of torque shy of the basic V8 comodore on offer, it would keep up in someones dreams. I would gladly take money on a bet on how much quicker the new commo' would be if I were to take both over the standing 1/4mile. It's simple math. This car is a 1639kg 'barge' it needs lots more than 190kw and a gay amount of torque to make it quick. OR take 200kgs out of it.

I would have thought that a very high km 'well seasoned' Rb26 block would be the best for strength as opposed to a newish N1 block?

As a guide for oil changing in the future once run in; * discard the 5,000km rule of thumb. It doesn't really make sense to follow a rule that applys to a stock motor and normal driving conditions. If you are going to 'use' the power consider how much faster your increased output is going to kill the oil than a stock motor. * Discard oil and filter after any strangle session on the dyno (lots of full power runs hurt the oil). * Discard the oil sooner in relation to how often youare using maximum power. * Discard engine oil /filter , diff and trans oils straight after a day at the races. Put new stuff in before you even go there. Consider it cheap insurance. Nothing like the people who do a good 4,900kms on exsisting oil think a day at the track or drags is worth the risk becasue they are under this 5,000km interval (think about that one and you realise how profoundly dumb it is). * Discard the oil sooner if you are drivning in hot weather. * Discard the oil sooner if you are drivning in dusty envrionments I would be rather suprised if you should go much past 2,000kms an oil change as an average if you motor is seeing that power on even the rare occasion. Bearing and ring replacement might be once a year or sooner, depending on how much power gets used , how often and in what environment.Hopefully someone has already prepared you for that one.

inark, Mazda MPS --- 190kw 380nm engine 1639KG Entry Level Holden Commodore V8 ---- 260kw 510nm engine 1639KG You sure about it being faster over the 1/4 mile now? The only info regarding a 'specualtive' 14.3 comes from the reveiw of the Mazdaspeed 6' version (not sold here). It wasn't proven it was a guess (and for my money a very bad one) and that car has more power and torque. It's still far less powerfull than the holden and still weighs the same. Mazda retirement vehicle.

Easy to come by? Yes maybe it is but, then it needs a hell of alot more power than standard to make it even keep up with a stock commodore LS1. By the time is goes even that quick the standard motor and drivetrain will probably have broken.

That torque is needed to pull it's own weight to start with, 1600kg+. A vehicle as sporty as a saab or volvo turbo. Not fast.

Blitz is a 'girls brand' thats why their D1 car is a 4 door.

at 1600+ kgs why would you? The weight of an XR6 and the power of....well not really much power at all for the fat arse weight of it. This car is a performance poo barge. Zoom Zoom....pffft!

R32 GTR is a very expensive daily driver. I've used one for almost three years probably covering more kms than you will. You must understand that since the car has so many extra working parts the maintenence is going to be multiplied. eg: 2 Diff's, 2 turbos + transfer case

too many doors only hold you back from gaining 'real-ultimate-power'! http://www.realultimatepower.net/

Ahh yes I too now respect that car.. like I do for the sick and elderly. Poor old no performance volvo-esque multi door cars. I say make doors out of lead!

What about no doors? What are you afraid of you door huggers! I suppose you even use a seat belt...pffft!

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thanks for the info free bump

$12k for a built Rb26 is pretty easy to do , there are plenty of guys who can tell you from experience. The cost can spiral very quickly. Best to go in over estimating rather than having to bail out when you run out of money.

300km to a tank! My GTR has cams ,big turbos and a stuffed No3 piston and it manages better than that (all city driving), thats 400km. NA skyline should be round 9L/100km or better. As for the Rb26 transplant..... $12k willt get the motor in that you want, add another $12k and then the car will be able to handle the power, add that to your $8k and you get a car without 4wd that cost you over $30k. I can point you in the direction of some very mean 'built' GTR's for that money. Then again if you like to 'do it yourself' why not start with a base that is going to work without money offerings being burnt for the sake of burning money?

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Drive it around stock. Save for a GTST, it will cost you less in the long term, you even save money on fuel.

Wow I'm now totally converted to this idea with the powerfull and well reasoned arguments put forward by the brighter stars amongst us on the forum. Lets judge people by what car they drive, it makes so much sense to me now. Lets start every conversation with " do you drive a commodore?" followed by " does any blood relative drive one?"(you never know they might be genetically infected with stupidity). I know I'm infected since I have driven commodores, stupid is my new middle name!.....But, hang on I'm driving a skyline...... Wait a minute thats how it all works then a skyline driver is the progression of the commodore driver and hence is even more stupid since the disease has had greater time to effect them, it even seems to add denial to the symptoms!

do these have the aircon pulley on them?