rev210

I didn't go for the dyno queen title. tuned and dyno'd with the bonnet down. I guess your asking for a dyno queen peak power number in this thread so I'll delete my post.

irrelevant post.

Ah yes my mistake you wouldn't be racing GTR's. You would be racing hyundai's and lancers.

The ninja will not drive a 4 door..... www.realultimatepower.net

If by 'burns' you mean like piles, yes on woop-ass wednesday thats what your going to feel like when you are having your ass handed to you by almost stock 2 door gtr's. You should get a fully sik carbon fibre donut cushion to sit on in anticipation of your 4 door piles purchase. that and some genuine HKS rectinol cream.

nothing like spending $500 for basically bugger all horsepower. You would be lucky to get 5 'real' horsepower over the stock airbox and a highflow element, perhaps even 'no gain'. Thats $100 per horsepower , one of the worst perfomance value mods ever. go spend it on a dump pipe or something.

the airflow target (ie: horsepower) + desired power band + driving application should be the basis of your selection. X brand and y brand is not the right question. Sadly most people will advise you according to this, most people have no idea. the very best way to go is to get an idea of the kind of power curve you would like, considering the application. Find someone's dyno pic that has a similar curve and work out the average horsepower of the power band. Provide this info along with the peak power value to someone who custom builds intercoolers like ARE. They will then design a custom sized intercooler matched for the application. I did this recently with a replacement intercooler for my GTR.

No. you need a few more mph. Around 13.4 or so if you have say a 2.1 60ft all else being equal.

Much more comfortable for old people with piles.

irridium and platinum plugs are also a 'waste of money' in your situation.

get the plugs out of there. go and buy some NGK BCPR6ES or BCPR6ES-11 and gap them to 0.8mm bung them in and then check the base timing. The poor idle is most probably related to the base timing, My guess is the bolts on the CAS are probably loose, and has let the timing slip. Once the timing is set go place a mark on the CAS and the front timing cover for refference in the future. You have a FMIC and no way of adjusting the fuel and ignition map? I don't know who gives you such crap advice on what has been done to your car but, you need to do more time looking through here to save yourself totally unnecessary pain; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=66556 good luck mate

teejay, I think he mean't 'like' an N1, a turbo that is of higher output than the garden variety. I don't think so myself.

Miller the Hoon, my old R33 gtst with just the exhaust got about 200rwhp at some dyno day thing but, basically ran a 13.8 so who the hell cares? Comparing dyno peak values is like comparing used toilet paper....it's all crap. Can I put it any stronger than that?

I have a broken record to play for you. Peak values mean nothing...peak values mean nothing...peak values mean nothing... Now you can certainly have a look at the shape of the graph you have and compare it to others and this can very often give a few clues to an issue you may have. Start a new thread and post a graph or two on the forced induction bit maybe? Perhaps sucking in hot air with your unsheilded pod is not doing you favours?

the tuning costs the same over here, so you are in front. even if people charge more elsewhere you make that money back pretty quick on a road car thanks to far better fuel ecconomy. Even Need4speed gets better fuel ecconomy than mine when driven in a tame manner I never thought I'd say it but, the d-jetro spanks the afm version and I have no clue as to why?

I keep telling you wimps I have NO DOORS on my car! As an aside it keeps people from claiming they 'blew your doors off' since I have no doors to start with. Seriously that prince car has got to be one of the ugliest 57 chev wanna-be's ever. And it being a prince it's probably got an electric motor. I for one GTR owner am completely ashamed of the family history, best not bring it up in polite conversation let alone show people photo's. Geez you could blackmail people with that sort of thing.

All I can say is that 'on the night' if that was your best run you didn't have the 244rwkw, I mean you were a very very very long way off. That mph isn't even 180rwkw. So unless that night your car 'felt' amazingly low on power it's best not to trust the peak dyno reading. Hell never pay any mind to them anyway. It's the peak values that aren't worth bothering with, as such comparing one car with anothers peak power reading as per a dyno day where only the peak horsepower is written up. So in this most common of 'same day' dyno comparisons most people are wasting thier time.

If your keeping the stock turbo for this attempt you don't need a fmic at all to do the time. Power FC is a good bet though.

Here's my 2c. When you go to a dyno, go to tune the car and completely ignor the peak power values. That way you can appreciate the difference from when you drive in to when you drive out. 105 mph does not relate to a real 244rwkw. I'd just forget about that figure and understand that comparing dyno graphs peak values is really like comparing used toilet paper.... its all crap.

Looks like the car hooked up ok off the line, you got another tenth or so there with that terminal. What diff ratio and gearbox did you have?

It has big cams , injectors and a ported head. Not exactly a fuel miser setup.

Like lots of people with R33's your car had money spent on various mods that made it actually slightly slower or didn't improve anything. I would have left the intercooler alone (it's a silly mod for a stock turbo anyway) and done the dump pipe. I still maintain that you can take a pretty stock R33 gtst and make it generally faster with the factory intercooler than 99% of the fmic equiped cars going around. Give me an good aftermarket core for the side mount and the remaining 1% won't keep up over the 1/4mile either. the good news is you can get it down to 13.6 or so pretty easy if you can drop 0.1 or so off the 60ft I ran 13.8's with : Stock turbo. Stock intercooler Turbo back exhaust. pineapples 205 tyres. consistant 13.4's with: above + lightweight flywheel

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Hi james, By way of encouragement if you consider that the 170rwkw 13.3 pass had a 60ft of 2.3 seconds it leaves room for those of us who are still learning to launch the car, in that case I was hardly making a good case for my drag racing skill. The area of greatest improvement is to optimise the power average and response of the engine. More attention to what the curve looks like on a dyno graph and less on what the peak value is. If you stop comparing power outputs and start looking at the shapes and values of these graphs on similar motors you get a better understanding of things.