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HA HA HA HA! WELCOME CHILDREN OF FIRE! I grow chilli, about 8 varieties in the backyard. I make fermented chilli sauce (in the shed or backyard as I'm banned from the house after tear gassing it a few years back), a 6 year old culture of yeast goes into every bottle to begin the process. The sauces are well.....hotish, you will not find anything as hot on the supermarket shelf and if you think nando's is spicy or you have a heart or respiratory condition it's best not to try it by the spoonfull. I make crazy mexican tequila aka fire water, using my special home grown 'red savina' habanero chillis. One shot of it is like an out of body experience of pain. Napalm down the throat and an intense burning pain in your stomache followed by a great high from the endorphins and a warm sensation in your stomache for 10min or so. I am working on less potent versions using milder thai chillis. I love red savina habanero chilli's! can you say half a million scoville units of heat? Yes! Thai chillis and the like are for little girls, they are childrens chilli. Whenver I get a macho mate telling me how too hot is not hot enough, I ready myself to say the words " welcome to mexico gringo chica" There is reportedly a chilli in India that has now the title of hottest chilli (naga jolokia) although it is disputed.

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is the spark being blown out? What power/boost/revs are you having spark issues at?

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the V-cam adjusts the cam timing on the intake cam alone. It doesn't morph the shape of your cam or do anything magic. You are still stuck with the 260 deg duration and 9mm lift. So if you want to see what benifit the V-cam can make it's easy enough to alter the intake cam timing on the dyno to see what bottom end you pull out of it by adjustment. At that particualr timing the top end power will be lower but, you can see what difference there is to be had. You 'might' get the boost on 500rpm lower if your lucky. The other thing is that the exhaust cam timing has a relationship to the intake cam timing so you need to set it according to the shape of the power curve you want. Going up in cam size will give some improvement. More cubic inches will do it too. If it's the 'time' you are waiting for the turbo/engine to hit the fun, then you can also focus on areas of 'response' like taking rotational weight away. Carbon fibre tail shaft, light weight clutch/flywheel, pulleys and balancer, electric fan, forged rims. If the engine takes the same 'time' to rev to 5200 after doing response mods that it used to take to get to 4200 rpm then the car will 'feel' like it would if you had done the same thing with something like big cams or V-cam alone. Thats feeling and accellerating just like getting airflow mods to bring the boost on at 4200rpm. Of course you can do both too.

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upgrading the cams in my opinion is a priority. You will increase the power band a great deal, decrease the rpm needed to get boost , decrease intake charge temps due to lower restriction at the valves and reduce the needed boost pressure to make the same power if you decide to limit/cap it at 400 or whatever. You have some very expensive supporting mods. You don't build motors around this sort of power target without changing them (cams), thats what I call a half assed approach.

oh forgot.. turbo beanie and thermal tape the dump pipe. If you have the coin then ceramic coat the turbo exhaust housing, dump pipe and x-force manifold and tape it as well. That will get the under bonnet temps down big time. The pod filter is in a nice cold air induction box too I hope, with a good air feed.

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Got ducting on the intercooler? What I mean is that air is directed into the 'core' of the intercooler and then ducted through to the core of the radiator. The idea is to 'seal off' the gaps around the edges of the intercooler so that the air hitting it has no where to go but through the core.Quite a bit of air will happily 'wash' around the intercooler over the end tanks etc. if there are lovely gaps there as they create a relative low pressure zone. It's best if you can direct the air into the core in a sort of a slightly 'angled in' way rather than just sealing it around the end tanks. The goal is to channel all the air into the core of the intercooler and through the radiator and then perhaps out a back facing bonnet scoop angled towards the radiator. Alternatively grabbing some washers and longer bolts for the bonet hinge you raise the rear of the bonnet so that you have a small gap at the back edge when its closed. Make sure you do the same thing for mounting an oil cooler and always remember to have a radiator shroud for any fans you have on it, electric or otherwise.

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25% mix of toluene (122) + 75% 91 is about 98 octane using blunt calculations. Whatever the number is a retune to suit is in order if you go that way. The AFR's need tweaking along with the timing to get the most out of it.

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