rev210

basic services are very easy to do yourself once you know how. This saves some money and gives you a growing amount of confidence as you go when it comes to thing mechanical. You may be able pursade a friendly south of the river SAU person to change oil , check plugs etc. for a beer wage . Watch and learn. Then give it a go the next time with a bit of supervision. As it was once said. What I hear I forget , What I see I remember and What I do I understand.

I'm not sure you got the point I initially was making. I don't think we disagree about the ideas you mention either but, I 'can' tell you a chev impala is the perfect car to base a drag car on. I'm sure someone through drag history has had great fun piloting an impala for impala's sake as a drag car. For that matter why not a bus? It's all about enjoyment. Hence I was suggesting the JZ engine swap in the spirit of going faster was not really the point of racing a GTR for many. But then again if someone wants to poke a bit of fun why not? People in the GM and Ford camp have done it for years to get a rise out of the opposition, it's good for a laugh. I think if I could ignor third world poverty and had the unlimited cash I would have a great deal of fun in the process of destroying a $30k on the odd occasion and burning $4k worth of fuel a meet in a top fuel car.Life styles of the rich and fearless. Big or small we all break stuff, thats racing as they say. Every form of racing is a way of setting fire to cash. Unless you make a business proposition out of it

ha ha neutral dump lol nothing like the smell of burning atf in the morning.

I had stock suspension on mine.

the ageement is that low 14's / 14 flat is pretty much stock territory, if it's nicely tuned. If you have a full exhaust things go better and into 13's. Just go drag racing anyway. It's easier to learn with a car that has a little less power, you will find wheelspin is enough of an obsticle even stock. The more practice you have the better you get anyway. Learning how to best get your car to do the 1/4 takes time, oh.. and breakages.

Kwinana is the place to do it. It's turned out to be a very fast track in general.

Sainty Engineering, at Wentworthville in Sydney's west might build you a billet block for enough money.

damn those creased tyres! Better get the iron out.

Learn to do it yourself and save money. There is however something to be said for being able to afford get others to do it for you. The right copper plug correctly gapped will last along time. It will produce no less power. However if you are paying someone to do the changing for you and factor that into the overall cost the platinum /Irridiums end up cheaper in the long term. Steve, lots of people including myself have used the copper plugs in RB's making more than 400rwhp. Might have been a dodgy plug or two? No argument about the irridiums doing the job for you, if it aint broke don't fix it as they say.

Munro, everyone seems to end up that way in drag racing. I notice there are quite a few old blokes racing the nitro equiped buggies ,perhaps it's what awaits you in retirement, sitting in front of a top fueler?

so good to see no one posted a picture of the obvious for a change...

like I said in the other one 98 mph is good for a high 13 with a better 60ft and a few decent shifts. If you are holding consistant revs to stall you might find that you can't get positive boost. To hold the rpm at that level there isn't engough load to have the throttle opening enough for boost. So perhaps just stomping the accellerator down is a better approach and forgetting the handbrake thing for now since you don't have a enough stall speed. having a snick of wheel spin off the line will get the turbo into boost otherwise you are bogging down.

the mph is good enough, the 0.4 and perhaps a better shift or two will do wonders.

Ahhh.. now I see. Niki 650 powAH !

I don't know if these things will work for you but... 1)a: S-AFC to sort out the top end AFR's a tad. b: R32 ROM reprogram or other ecu to sort out the ignition maps that aren't going to suit the cams you now have. This is probably the biggest probelm the motor has at the moment. 2) Do the trans. Stall and shift kit it. 3) Have you gutted the standard R32 box of that air baffle thingo they have? If not probably do that and make sure there is a nice clean air feed (not familiar with r32 gtst's tho') The MPH is better than the E.T, 2.5 sec 60ft even with over reving shifts means you got a 13 second car at the moment if you can knock it down to a 2.1 or so.

What the hell is this topic about? Drag car engines? The rb26 Vs the jz. Both these motors are the wrong weapon of choice to build an outright drag car around for the sake of drag racing, doing low times and nothing else. I'll have one of those sainty 3 valve topfuel engines thanks. There are plenty of different categories in drag racing and to each his own. Each type offers a different experience and cost. People who try to drag race 4wd skylines in the pure sense of drag racing are up against it. Clearly these people enjoy the challenge to see how fast they can get a a rather difficult drivetrain config to go in a drag racing environment. It would be far easier to just ditch the IRS, full chasis and tub a GTR to go much faster but, thats not what these people are about. I think perhaps they enjoy the added thrill of having the front driven wheels trying to pull them into the concrete barriers. Now for the same wierd reasons people in these GTR's with Rb26's might like to retain that particular motor in the spirit of all things nissan. Hence they tend not to take them out to put JZ series engines in, which to be honest isn't the best choice for a power upgrade if that was the aim.

A car can accelerate faster without more engine power through other means, like dropping the cars weight , reducing weight on rotational parts, changing the final drive ratio etc.. You could measure accelleration changes to ratios and rotational weight by plotting a time taken against the rpm on a power run. This can be overlayed on the power curve too. I am not sure if dyno software has this function built in, it would be very sensible to have it included. Anyone know if dyno dynamics software does this?

rev to 10k? Hmmm... I think the racing 1200 coupes motors got pretty close in their day. This ones probably able to go to 8,500rpm or so regularly but, the engine setup is designed to make peak power a tad lower. Dsturbd, What sort of struts are you bolting those to? At least your diff isn't going to die anytime soon. I have two spare diffs and one spare 4 speed in expectation of the carnage.

Dsturbd, I reckon the guy offering $4k was dreaming, if yours hasn't any rust. Where do you get new panels for them? And the LSD? Mine runs 120 struts and the bigger 200B girlock alloy calipers.

they aren't real cheap unfortunately. This ones a tad rough and I've got a fair tidy up on my hands. For something like my bunky you can expect to pay around $5k (rust, needs a gerneral tidy up etc..) , I got mine cheaper so it was a bargain. Mind you I have to tune the ecu up and other things to make it right.

alpha, no was there one for sale there too?

It's almost a given. In time of course.

I could do with GTR seats in this one just because they would give me another inch or two of space. What has your 1200 got in it Dsturbd?

Old R32 GTR has gone and in the resulting down grade to a point 'a' to point 'b' car I now drive this...... Datsun 1200 ute! with bits... Built A14 with upgraded cam / pistons etc. Garret t25 turbo Silvia intercooler. EMS Stinger ECU, multi coil setup. 3inch turbo back exhaust bigger brakes and front struts etc.. goes reasonably, no gtr but, handles like a kart'. The best part is watching me try an get into it or out of it Give us a wave if you see me around and spare a thought for someone who has taken a step down in the world of performance cars

unless those bolts are new I don't think you want to re-use them.