rev210

your regular fuel return line can be plumbed into. You might just look at a bigger fuel pump again to replace the 044. Activating nitrous at lower revs means massive torque increases. This is ok if the levels of torque are not beyond the rods.The rods will have a limit, just keep under that. The fact is that the nitrous is only engaged when you are flat to the floor. redline wise you tend to lower the shift point about 500rpm or so. This also helps with 'run on' that you get when you come off the gas, tiny bit of fuel and gas still flow into the motor when the solenoid is off.

350rwkw is another pump for the nitrous to be safe. The nitrous will give a very large increase in torque so you might be looking at a new gearbox if your going to bung in 150+hp on top of 350rwkw. Direct port is a better way to go for bigger shots. The single fogger is fine for up to 200hp however and dead simple to plumb in. If you are using an RB25 plenum then I don't think there is any issue with a single fogger. I used one on mine and then 2rimso took mine off me (as ratty as it was) and has just won the Andra S/RWD for Season '05/'06 with the thing (or should I say dispite it).

oh yes the other reason for testing flow rates on the fuel side of things is because NOS standard brass flare jets are often not accurate in flow rating. Thats why they market the NOS 'Saphire' range, because they are actually flow tested.

The nitrous activation is a 'full throttle' affair in standard setups. You put a microswitch/momentary switch on the Throttle arm so it is only on at full throttle. The micro switch and soloinds need to be wired via relays othwise the high current draw of the solenoids will cook things. Obviously you need an arming swtich to engage the 'nitrous active' mode. The 044 flows enough to cope with say 600hp worth of fuel total. You have therefore 600hp - 150hp (worth of extra nitrous fuel requirement) = 450hp worth of fuel flow remaining. If you configure the motor to have under 450hp (at the engine) then the 044 will satisfy the total fuel load without needing another pump. With an NA Rb30 you are sound as a pound for fuel supply. This leads me to the next question. How big can you go with the nitrous shot? I think if the standard RB30E internals can cope with say 400hp (some one may know) and without the gas the engine makes 200hp? then thats a 200hp shot you could end up running.(With a 10lb gas tank that would last about 50 seconds total). The advantage with the nitrous power up wil be lower rpm requirements for the engine to make the power total as well. Typically 500rpm. SirRacer, Thats not a low pressure carby style kit is it? That holley reg looks like it is.

1) and most of the others.... If this motor is not run in properly and it sounds like it isn't yet. That would explain alot. The piston rings need to bed in to 'seal'. If they haven't the compression will be crappy like yours is.

A quick tip while I think of it.. When sizing things up jets wise you don't just slap in the ones off the chart that relate to 150hp and expect that outcome. That chart you will notice has a fuel pressure rating. If you are going to have a variation to that pressure you need to measure the actual fuel flow of the fuel jets (good idea anyway) and then size thematch to a nitrous jet.If you have a static pressure regualtor and gauge you can use these to isolate the fuel supply pressure levels in the nitrous system, you definately need to measure them. If you take the time to do this you end up with a better result every time. A cooler set of plugs isn't a bad idea for nitrous use, as mentioned a few degrees of timing taken out. Platinums and others with small grounding straps aren't a good choice plug wise either. It's a pretty crappy photo you have but, I can see a a static fuel pressure reg , it looks like a low pressure one though (a holley?) The other bits I'm not sure what you have circled as I can't make out the detail.

buy cheap buy twice

No forged stuff might be a problem depending on tune. More so will be the bearings at 450rwhp (clearance and type). The low km R33 GTR motor is a pot luck deal with factory bearings and 450rwhp. It's quite alot of power really. get some more money. Do it properly. and then get some more money , break more drivetrain parts, then get some more money. Do the drivetrain bits properly, then get some more money.

rev210's pesonal rule for car life: " you can be happy but, never satisfied "

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didn't use nissan coolant did you? You should never buy the cheap stuff with this sort of motor.Cooling system service ought to ALWAYS include the thermostat as well. My 2c is you need to have the block pressure flushed and the tanks on the radiator removed to pressure clean when properly servicing, ie: take it to a radiator place and fork out the extra dollars next time. You may have just an airpocket if your lucky, re-bleed it and do the rest the right way. Hopefully it works out buddy.

kwinanna motorplex is a good 1/4 mile calculator. These calculators are quite useless.....wait..... they are good for starting useless debates and arguments. If you are serious about drag racing the information needs to be collected at the track, the actual track you want to race on and do well.

112mph (180kmh) terminal is fricken huge. I don't think I've ever heard a stock turbo go that quick. That cars alot quicker than 13 flat if thats the case. Good on the bloke for having a sleeper whether it has an upgrade turbo or not..

but the raw power of a dyno printout is awesome!!!!!! ....then the x-man spun round and with his mighty hand he shoved the dyno printout in the face of his enemy! Stuck by the awesome power of it's reflex paper cheapness the enemy was blown backwards through the air to land 10 feet away in a crumpled heap. AMAZING!

this is the greatest thread of all time! Mods, Sticky this thread at once!

learn to gap the plugs yourself is a better way to go, the 'pre-gapped' plugs out of the box are not always exactly 0.8mm.

the first question to ask is what do you want to do with the car? from there you may have an idea about what sort of accelleration, handling and braking you want to aim for in a compromise with driving in traffic. Power is only one aspect.

as others have suggested NGK BCPR6ES works for what you have. You will find them as BCPR6ES-11's (the 11 part reffers to the fact that they are pre-gapped to 1.1mm). gap them down to 0.8mm Should work well.

and you have a 1.7 second 60ft as you said it's possible but, I was giving the guy something more realistic to aim for with a modest improvement in his launch.

NGK copper plugs are the way to go. As people have suggested the BCPR6ES. ross80, those plugs are shite. get the NGK coppers. And for the record....... Irridium and platinum are a WASTE OF MONEY

my bunky had stock dump pipes and when I removed the dead turbo's I noticed how badly they and the factory cast iron manifolds are port matched. I can see how aftermarket dump pipes are able to deliver significant gains. I expect even though I ported my cast iron dumps there is more power and better spool to be had yet. When the new motor goes in that will be sorted. I suspect the lost compression on piston 3 was as a result of the ceramic dust too.