rev210

NissanFreak, Good starter. Do you have any pics of the sump issue?

I know we have our lovely and very huge thread on the RB30 conversion already. However the Rb26/30 GTR conversion has a few more bits and peices to make this process work. How about we have a thread specific to the GTR conversion that covers: * the Rb26dett head build up to suit * Forged piston selection Vs compression * Sump adaption and oil pick up. A step by step pics based guide for DIY would be great to eventually have too, for anyone thinking of doing this in the near future to consider adding to this. Saves wading through the hundreds of posts.

Roy, You can tune torque in or out of the motor very easy, hell you can make a power curve to any shape that suits your traction issue fancy. The fact is the Rb25 may not ever get the kind of torque you would really like where you want it the way an RB30 can. You tell a good tuner what power you want and when and they will most often do it for you, it's not that hard. Most people unfortunately just walk in and say 'power'. Think about this next time you get a dyno tune, the easy way is with a 2 stage boost setting or even better a dial that operates between two settings seamlessly.

The GTR stays 80 deg or less with the 16inch thermo with factory fan shroud.

I have used a single 16 inch davies craig fan on the GTR. Unfortunately they draw an enourmous amount of current so you must rig them up to a thermo switch otherwise you lose the power benifit if they are on all the time. They also work within the factory shroud and reduce rotational mass to boot.

On the other hand why not forget about the rpm that the turbo kicks in at and go for decreasing the physical 'time' in seconds that you wait for the turbo to kick in or the engine to acheive rpm. To do this you can aim at droppping the rotational mass of the engine/drivetrain. Lightweight flywheel / lightweight pulleys / Electric thermofan with thermo switch / carbon fibre tail shaft / light weight forged alloy wheels etc...

Cams help. If you don't have upgraded injectors get some and a fuel pump too.

Having owned both cars the GTR is a better experience driving wise.

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Dude. Tell me what oil has 'ash' as an additive? The 'ash' in the 4wd oil is due to diesel combustion. Diesel oils are designed however to cope with suspended ash (part of the combustion by product) and diesel oil filters do the rest. Diesel oil is almost always black as soot even after new oil has only been run for a few kms. As you mention not running a 5w-50 oil (mobil 1?) for this reason I can only say someone has not properly explained oil to you and confused you quite alot. Hey it happens all the time.

More fun for all concerned if you do though (on the appropriate track). Why else would you buy a skyline?

When too much torque is never enough....... You can always de-tune a motor. It's a far better way to go than having to tune harder to get the same power. Rb30 would be quite easy, just pull some timing in the right spots hey presto you have the curve you can live with. I so far have not seen any posts in years about how easy it is to tune power 'out' of a motor on purpose. So many people tune the hell out of their engine first and then struggle to get the thing to stay on the road under throttle. Your right foot is also a wonderfull power and torque controller, I call it the first line of traction control.

can't beat that for a sloution.

Thats alot of kms. However, the shear amount of oil going in to the catch can, the fact that the fuel pump is smallish, there wasn't a gradual increase in oil catch and it showers everyone in oil if you floor it means busted piston. It's all over my friend. A compression test will show you the money very quickly. If you don't have a guage a cheap one can be bought for $30 from somewhere like supercheap auto.

Broke a bolt you say? I think it's probably the bolt that gave out then. The old bolts are a bit of a lottery when putting them back in, I broke one on mine on putting the cams back in. Next time I do a set of cams I will use new ones or ARP's, it makes sense really.

The Aussie delivered R32 GTR is the 'Godzilla' by name.

I think the price on these is going to keep rising as the 'rare' nature of them comes out. There is also nothing wrong with doing the usual mods to them, considering returning it to standard is very easy and very cheap to do. The parts you change/upgrade aren't exclusive to the australian version. Consider that there were only ever 50 of these made/sold. I remember hearing there was 100 and then I came across a dealer listing of all the 50 chassis numbers (which I have posted on my for sale thread on my sig below). Its a PDF doc, that every good skyline owner should keep so go ahead and download There are quite alot of parts that are different on the Australian ones.That Document mentions only some and its quite a list. It would be very easy to tell if its a genuine Aussie one just by cross refference to that PDF doc. The ariel in the roof is a giveaway as are the indicators on the sides of the fron guards and the nissan hamburger badge on the bonnet. I have still got the leather bound manual and 'how to drive your GTR' booklet by richards and skaife. I am selling mine for $28,000 ono and it's not real tidy to be honest and done almost 250,000kms.

Put an idiot behind the wheel of a skyline and he is still an idiot.

Tensioning up the the bolts must be precise. If your torque wrench cost you less than $100 you need to be carefull. If it cost less than $50 maybe thats your problem. When I did my cams in the shed I took the factory reccomendations and added a step in between at the last torque to be sure. The cams are very easy to snap and even bend enough to weaken them so they let go 6,000kms down the track.

oh when I say ringlands I don't mean rings, I mean the actual part of the piston area the rings sit in (ie: your piston/s are dead).

Ringlands of the piston will most likely be cactus I'm afraid. Unless your motor has lots and lots of kms on it the factory nissan rings will last quite alot longer without losing compression. You say the engine has been 'tuned' to 300rwkw. Do you have a dyno readout with the AFR's, RB25's need to run on the rich side of 12 to be save at higher boost due to having some decent compression ? The other thing is that a 550hp fuel pump (I'm guessing walbro) is a tad small for 300rwkw given drivetrain losses. That sails very close to the wind. If you had a partially blocked fuel filter you could lean the motor out. At 412rwhp or 307rwkw figure that pump maxes out assuming it's going to even get 550hp worth of fuel in at the fuel pressure you are running. Sorry mate. Sounds like rebuild time. At least you can put some forgies in there to handle the power better next time.

Not trying to be picky here but, both the dyno printout of 302rwkw and the shiny rims fall into the 'show' category. Both are displayed by ways of a picture. A dyno is only a tuning tool afterall to enable you to 'go' better. Having said that you might have a timeslip or two to shut up the performance critics ( I'm not one by the way). Nothing wrong with liking your car to look good the way you see it. Rim weight is one area you can pick up a fair whack of extra performance. The right wheel offset is also worth thinking about to optimise handling. A good forged rim of the right offset can really transform the way your car drives. Also a good set of unusual rims like your 20 inch chromies can transform the look of your car to something unique. People have to decide on what they like more. To some exent there is alot of choice in the forged wheel market , but the large diameter chrome finish is usually associated with rather heavy castings ,poor offsets and compromised tyre performance (perhaps to extents that don't matter if your not driving your car anywhere near 10 tenths.

The problem is that the japanese like the english language so much they write 'brand' name using it. If they want it read in the english language they must suffer the frustration of hearing it come out according to pronunciation in english. They could just use japanese kanji to brand things and then the 'words' become part of the japanese language domain.

PRICE DROP $4500 ono !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pics and an actual PDF of the Nissan dealer chassis list for Aussie GTR's here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=105516