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rev210

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Everything posted by rev210

  1. Just a question for anyone who has got a winning formula for the indexing of the plugs on an Rb26dett to give their feedback. For those who don't know what indexing plugs is, it's basically lining the plugs grounding strap in a particular direction that achieves optimum spark characteristics under load. The 'gap' where the spark occurs has a directional charateristic and in most engines there is power and more reliable spark under load to be had by getting this direction right. You are able to adjust the postion of plugs by using wafer thin washers to achieve the right factory tension while getting the direction you want.
  2. The best plugs to use are the far cheaper 'copper' plugs, granted platinum and irridium plugs are better material but, for what you get the money is better in your bank. When tuning your car this is even more important. Getting those maps right can in the process rapidly age the plugs due to the initial incorrect mixtures and timing. It's not unheard of to waste a set of plugs or two as you go through the process of setting up a tune.Due this with irridiums or platinums and your looking at increasing your tuning bill a fair whack. On a side note; if you drop a plug on hard ground even if it looks ok throw it away, another reason to avoid these plugs as the pain is alot less when you do. Really Irridiums and platinums are a waste of money unless you fill the following conditions; * You race and can justify the replacement cost of these plugs over copper for the slight advantage they have in a more reliable spark under great sustained heat stress, not that you will even notice this in any performance terms they are just slightly less likely to give out before you finish the race. You are going to replace them every meet in any case. * You have left your low km engined car completely stock, will never run an octane booster or any other performance modification that may effect the tune state of the vehicle and hate having to change plugs. The irridium and platinum tend to stay cleaner for longer so you have less user intervention. Although for the cost you will be still out of pocket $$$ after traveling 100,000kms Vs copper plugs. From memory NGK BCP serices in a heat range of 6 the BCPR series (R for resistor) if you are not running big ass boost or nitrous, although I know not to use these resistor plugs for nitrous from experience I am making the assumption that if you have enough extra combustion temperature from higher boost this rule would apply also. Happy to be corrected by a tuner who knows about this though. ( the plugs that end in ES-11's are just gapped to 1.1mm out of the box but can be used too ,just regapped). Factory boost & rpm = factory gap Increase boost and or rpm = decrease gap Increase combustion heat ( eg power and rpm) = lower heat number (NGK for example going from BCP6 to BCP7) One other thing you might like to try is 'indexing' your plugs. Make a line mark down the top of the white ceramic of the plug inline with the direction of the grounding strap (bit of metal over the top of the plug electrode that you close up to gap the plug). When you put the plugs in you try to have the plugs turned so that the 'gap' faces in one uniform direction with the idea that there is an optimum position for the spark for best combustion. A few wafer thin washers is all you need to achieve the effect as you don't want the plugs too tight or loose to acheive the position. It is well documented that getting it right makes significantly more power as it helps improve spark performance under high load. I am going to post a thread on forced induction to see if there is any experience with the RB engines and indexing so we can save reinventing the wheel.
  3. Running this sort of fuel requires a re-tune, so unless your going to only run it every day or you have a couple of quick change maps, then avoid it. The slower burn of the ethanol means it usually increases the exhaust temps a tad and that gives a slight increase in spool for those of us with turbo's. The down side is that ethanol introduces issues with corrosion, being an alchohol it is water soluable. At 5% this may not be a huge issue having said that.
  4. Not a good idea. Solid cam profile in the RB26 Vs Hydro' in the RB25 means the ramps are not right for the lifters you are running. If you convert the whole thing to a solid cam/lifter and shim setup then great. Just go buy the right cams for your engine and save yourself the hassle.
  5. the PFC can handle that. Go into 'settings' and then 'inj/ign' menu add advance on the fly as you need it and monitor the knock levels. The addtional advance you plug in on this menu needs to be redone everytime you restart the engine as it's temporary. So there is no danger of you forgetting once you are back with normal fuel and running to much advance. This tool is a fairly blunt instrument by my experience. I tend to change the map itself after writing down the original values.
  6. I am sure most have tried octane boosters. I have tried most. Having tried the nitrous formula stuff it isn't bad for a bottle booster, but compared to a good mix of toluene it's a toy.
  7. Hi Steve, I am pretty sure you will find the timing maps in a stock ecu are fixed. If you can show me a timing 3D graph Vs load before and after then I would agree with you. A power curve isn't idicative of the timing map. Thats why the 'Lumpy ROM' for the R32's is really good as you can modify fully the timing Map in 3D. Perhaps a tuner would like to and 2c?
  8. reseting ecu only changes the 'closed loop' map. It does not effect the ignition or fuel maps for power, otherwise you could mod things and not need a PFC or other programable ecu. A manual advancing of the CAS will only 'shift' the timing map so to speak.
  9. Unless you guys missed I was being sarcastic about toluene doing things to your neigbours dog etc.. Anyone telling you that it rots fuel lines is misinformed at best and at worst an 'idiot' (one who is politically ignorant from ancient greek language). Plenty of myths about on this stuff touted by people who know nothing about the use and who most definately have never used the stuff. Every time I see a comparison between toluene and bottle based octane boosters it makes me laugh, they are so full of crap.
  10. You can use the 10-15% perhaps a little more and increase the base timing via the CAS a few degrees. I did use toluene at 20% mix on a stock ecu and found it to work very well, with a few degrees base timing put in.
  11. Toluene rotting fuel lines: ............actually yes it does and your whole car will start rotting shortly afterwards and then the neigbours dog too but, no one liked it barking at night anyway so we are all happy again. Although without fuel lines and a car. It also will cause you girlfriend to leave you and it will lose you your job.
  12. Hi everyone Dr dangerous here! Yes toluene is almost as dangerous as normal petrol, although petrol is far more volitile, has more toxic fumes and contains carcinogens. So if you must use it then do so with as much care as fueling up your lawn mower. If fact people should take more care with their lawn mowers for future refference. Toluene for the record is not carcinogenic. If someone wants to argue with me then I will respond with 'my dad can beat up your dad..' Toluene is ok with the O2 sensors if the mixture is right for the tune. Running higher mixtures will result in unburnt fuel, the toluene component helps to keep O2 sensors clean thanks to higher exhaust temps, it's also a good solvent to clean things with.
  13. I've used this stuff for years. Toluene is not used in modern off the shelf octane boosters and is used far less these days in basic fuels. There is a push to reduce the aromatic content of fuels such that BP98 doesn't contain very much by way of it at all, pick up a brouchure and it says the % from memory only about 7%?. Why you ask? because it's pollution and bad smell all the way oh and catylitic converters don't like it. up to 35-40% aromatic content in your fuel is fine if you tune for it. the F1 turbo cars ran 79psi of boost and made 1,000hp and the base fuel was pure toluene with n-heptane thrown in to actually reduce the octane number to comply with regs, developed for the Honda turbo's at the time (alan prosts favorite from memory) the term 'rocket fuel' was coined at this time.
  14. The Mixture is really dependent on how much you want to muck around with the engine tune. Toluene is less volitile and so tends to have cold start issues at low temps (after today it looks like theres no chance of that for a while). For a straight replacement of bp 98 to drop the 'ping' factor, run around with about 10- 15% with a 95/96 octane fuel. I run upto 30-35% for short periods. It cleans out your fuel system while its at it too. This requires a tune to suit. There are probably others with experience around who might like to share their prefferences too. The price for a tin is actually $32 now. Diggers brand. For a 20L drum it's $97. If people like to they can shop around for a hardware store willing to get it in regularly at a better price in my opinion the hardware store is charging abit much since they changed from being a Makit brand store.Even at $32 I preffer this over the 500ml octane bottle no brand comes even remotely close. appart from more power. Toluene will increase the exhaust temps a tad but, it's lower volitility means much increased tollerence to pre-ignition. You run it a little on the rich side of 11:1 to be safe if your a backyarder playing with timing. Oh and the catylitic converters don't like this additive for very long periods without appropriate tuning. here is an old extract I have about it; Toluene is a pure hydrocarbon (C7H8). i.e. it contains only hydrogen and carbon atoms. It belongs to a particular category of hydrocarbons called aromatic hydrocarbons. Complete combustion of toluene yields CO2 and H2O. This fact ensures that the entire emission control system such as the catalyst and oxygen sensor of your car is unaffected. There are no metallic compounds (lead, magnesium etc), no nitro compounds and no oxygen atoms in toluene. It is made up of exactly the same ingredients as ordinary gasoline. In fact it is one of the main ingredients of gasoline. Toluene has a RON octane rating of 121 and a MON rating of 107, leading to a (R+M)/2 rating of 114. (R+M)/2 is how ordinary fuels are rated. Note that toluene has a sensitivity rating of 121-107=14. This compares favorably with alcohols which have sensitivities in the 20-30 range. The more sensitive a fuel is the more its performance degrades under load. Toluene's low sensitivity means that it is an excellent fuel for a heavily loaded engine. Toluene is denser than ordinary gasoline (0.87 g/mL vs. 0.72-0.74) and contains more energy per unit volume. Thus combustion of toluene leads to more energy being liberated and thus more power generated. This is in contrast to oxygenated octane boosters like ethanol or MTBE which contain less energy per unit volume compared to gasoline. The higher heating value of toluene also means that the exhaust gases contain more kinetic energy, which in turn means that there is more energy to drive turbocharger vanes. In practical terms this is experienced as a faster onset of turbo boost. have fun... oh and it's deadly poison and you'll all die die die !!! HA HA HA!
  15. I just grabbed some toluene today and mixted it up with premium BP. Works better than ultimate ever does but, costs a little more sadly.
  16. Steve, I'd say go and get a total tune geared for the toluene, and consistantly run the same mixture if thats the case. If you have an ecu with provision for two maps then it's much easier I guess. Otherwise if it's a PFC then go into the Settings and tune using the adjustment so the entire map for ingnition and then fuel. It's less accurate but easy to remember and change on the fly afterwards. The best thing to do is to pre-mix the toluene in a larger sealed container (fuel can) with fuel before adding it to the tank. Investing in a good system to pump it into the tank is a good idea as well as the funnels tend to be messy.
  17. you need to richen up the fuel mixture and up the timing map a bit to make the most of it.
  18. tolunene 4L tins from Makit hardware in erindale rd. Balcatta next to super cheap auto. about $20 something.
  19. Rb26dett with 240,000+kms Tomei 260deg in/ex cams sard 700cc injectors Group A nismo turbos Only 13 psi and a very mild tune to keep the old girl alive for a while longer.
  20. There are a number of guys over here who can vouch for simon's TO4z setup as being a very attractive alternative to 2530's. The 'response' as people are starting to point out is to do with a stopwatch and how fast the engine spins up and boost/power happens, from this perspective the TO4z does infact seem to do this as well or perhaps even a tad better than the traditional 2530's with the added bonuses of more power, less moving parts, less parts in general and more room in the engine bay.Lets face it we are all looking for that pot of gold where we get fewer trade offs. A good friend of mine has been lucky enough to witness the road going comparison to 2530's and although there where some engine differences it's very obvious the turbo delivers the excellent response we expect from 2530's from purely a timed delivery perspective (from on the gas to go). At the end of the day I think the proof is in the pudding as they say, so Simon you just have to take a few more of us 2530 twin owners for a ride so we can back you up
  21. As others have said, upgrade the cams. 260's are large enough. You need dump pipes too. Maybe upgrade them to the trust units with front pipe.
  22. rev210

    Heyy

    Hi there! Well done on the new aquisition, the R32 GTR is a great car (I'm sure I don't need to tell you tho'). If you haven't had the advice already, I suggest that you leave the boost at factory until you are ready for a turbo upgrade/rebuild, the ceramic rear wheels let go pretty easy especially on the older GTR's. Mine let go at 11psi just due to old age. Keep the power levels down below 400rwhp once you do mod it or you will find the old grandad of a motor will die very quickly, leaving you with a rebuild bill of greater than $7k (stock). Having money in the bank for a car of this age is probably smarter than modding it to begin with as well (I'd put away about $5k as an emergency fund) and allow around $2k or so per year purely for mechanical up keep. There are plenty of great people on these forums if you ever need advice or more often than not sympathy when your car breaks down. lets face it that's performance car ownership. have fun!
  23. I also clock alot of kms on my GTR (it's my work car). LPG is an interesting consideration given the stupid fuel pricing. I suggest that people doing the 'sacrilidge' line need to go buy all the GTR's left if they are worried (start a new religion and get a fund together). Personally I think you all missed the point. What a life to spend endless kms in nothing but a great sports car. Instead of having some puss bucket nanna 4cyl to do 99% of your driving in with the GTR only for weekends. I tell you I can't go back. I seem to recall a few other guys I know in the same boat, notably Ant from X-speed's now 900rwhp daily driver. It's a good thing if you can afford to do it and if you need to go LPG to make it more affordable then I say good for you!....end of rant.
  24. The Attessa will activate. You might notice that under brisk accelleration the torque gauge will climb a bit without any wheel spin under normal circumstances. If you have a bucket load of power then it's going to be very hard to stop the rears spinning on a big launch. I believe that a torque split controller is going to be worth a look to get more from the front early and the abillity to put some heat in the rear tyres before you stage, unless you want to plumb in a switch to turn the attessa off for that. With slicks on you are going to load up the driveline, basically traction comes at a cost, wheelspin softens the blow so to speak but does slow you down. The shock is higher the more power you have and the more traction you get off the line. Have you had much to do with the drag strip with the car in it's old setup? With a large horspower upgrade I can imagine the learning curve will be big at any rate. hope that helps
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