rev210

Hello. You have no boost control at all now? I would be reconnecting the factory one or the turbodumb controller you disconnected and turning it down to 10psi (it will only spike to 12psi at the most which should be fine). Green lights in the footwell is not standard. Someone has put some in for you for 'rice effect'. The factory suspension is 'firm' when compared to a new family car. If your kidneys are not getting bruised then it's unlikely that you have anything more than some slightly uprated springs. going too low on a GTST is a sure way to root up the handling and alignement becomes an issue. Defectable mods? The pod filter (if you have one) is easy. Just get rid of it or make a cold air box for it. have fun mate.

THE most offensive movie to a true car nut ever....Fast and the Furious.I believe people who know a thing or two about motor bikes think the same about the bike movie made in the same formula. I had to turn the sound off and skip through it in fast forward. It's like running fingernails down a chalk board for me. The only way you could watch this movie is to adhere to the old line 'ignorance is bliss'. It's like listening to those guys who you meet who tell you that they own a stock V6 commodore that does 10 second 1/4 miles because it was a factory special blah blah.....when you know better why would you endure or even enjoy being patronised? I am pleased for those people who enjoy this movie however.Those who are ignorant enough about modified cars not to feel offended. Theirs is the joy of childhood innocense

The best way to go is to have a 'balance' in your life. A supportive partner is a great thing to have in your life but, at the same time it helps you curb what is a fatal addiction by giving you a healthy alternative focus for your thoughts and attention.

I make mine out of wooden dowl and electrical tape.

I have had to upgrade the family car for seating capacity reasons so I am selling the beloved Volvo. I have a 7 seater 4wd now so there must be room made in the shed. I am asking $7,500 ono to sell it off quickly. Open to offers as it really has to get sold. This is the original 'Sleeper'. And is an absolute blast to drive. The V8 is loud and proud and gives the people around you fair warning that something is drastically wrong in the land of the Abba. 1977 Volvo Station Wagon ; Ferrari red. Electric windows/ power steering/ Sports Streering wheel & Dash with tacho also including center guages for oil pressure, volts etc. The Car sits lowered and has heavy duty front coils to cope with the V8. It has Volvo factory alloys with Pirelli Drago P5000 tyres. One thing about this car is it is so insanely easy to park it! I have driven all manner of power steering equiped small cars and nothing compares to this. It's like the tardis of power steering. Engine: Holden V8 - 308cui Red motor With the usual bits...... L34 Pistons High Volume Oil pump Ken Waggott Con rods SPS rod bolts Roller Rockers High Volume Oil pump L34 Valves Edelbrock Manifold Mild camshaft Gilmer Drive K&N Filter Davies Craig Thermo Fan Extractors Single mandrel bent 3 inch exhaust. Induction: Duel Fuel Sprint Gas LPG system. Modified Rochester carby. Trans: Turbo 350 High volume pan Stage 1 shift kit Standard stall B&M Quick Shifter (mega shifter). Heavy duty Trans cooler Diff: Dana LSD This car is fully engineered and licenced with the V8. The Gas conversion included a custom modification to the chassis to fit the tank under the car so as to leave the boot space free. Considering the power this car has and the amount of fun you can have with it, the LPG makes it as cheap to run as a 4 cylinder. Not to mention the safety of the Flying brick design. I have quite a number of spare parts to go with the car and I also have a big Speed Pro cam that will drop straight in should anyone like a bit more...sorry a lot more power. pm me for more info ***************** PRICE DROP $6000 ono!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

email sent

yep who cares. If your car goes well it doesn't matter.

Quite possibly it is pinging. The knock reading and the noise you describe would normally point towards this. My advice is NOT to try and make this rattle for anyone else to listen to but, rather get it over to Mazfix for them to 'look at'.

I assume by sports filter you mean a 'pod filter'? If thats the case and you have no heat sheild it will cause power to drop off due to sucking in hot engine bay air. The BOV isn't doing you any favours with a standard ecu either. The good news is there a few things you can do to up the power without breaking the bank. That should see you up another 40rwkw+. There is a sticky thread in the forced induction section on the most commonly asked questions to help you out.

The Aussie ecu's were re-programed as the maps given to the factory jap GTR's (this is where the australian ones were built and where the ecu's actually come from too) ran too much ignition advance for the lower octane fuels here (back then only 96 octane max), the jap fuels are also higher in benzene based additives that act as octane boosters and require a richer air to fuel ratio. Oh and while they were at it they removed the speed restrictor.

There are plenty of threads on this topic, so info is easy to get.

bump'o thanks for the info mate, good luck with the sale

yep. I have a power fc. I run big turbos,cams and 700cc injectors, so I outgrew the factory ecu.

what 1,000 hp cars are using the oil cooler of this design at the moment? did you ask Garret about whether their core is going to cope with the hydrolic pressure? (you can't compress liquids at all unlike air). also the piping pictured on that oil cooler kit isnt going to last very long either, try braided or at the very least teflon reinforced high pressure hose. The temperature and pressure will eventually blow that type of hose appart.

Price Drop....

By the way the fuel map on a factory ecu more often than not is way too rich in the top end. And don't get me started on the ignition maps for australian fuels. 20-30rwkw is not uncommon to gain with the power FC. The gains are throughout the rev range too.

I'd get yourself a Power FC. You can tune the fuel and ignition maps to provide better power and response and you can keep it as you upgrade the power bits. From my experience unless you are very carefull not to get an intercooler that is too big (read 600x300x75 is too big) for the factory turbo your performance in terms of acceleration could well go backwards. Peak horsepower means nothing and even horsepower increases can be negated by a loss of engine response due to the far larger volume of air that must be moved through.. Or to put it another way; my old R33 ran low 13's without a front mount intercooler on little 205 tyres and there have been quite a few guys since who have done the same. Put your money back in your pocket whislt you have the factory turbo. Wait until you are ready to plan for the total package you want for your car. Pick the intercooler, turbo, cams and upgrade bits so they all match perfectly for the horsepower and performance goals you have. Do it this way and you avoid the 'bolt on boy' approach that costs more money and can often end up in a car that is slower than a factory stock one. Note however, there are some good and cheap upgrades of intercoolers in the form of sidemount trust/ARC or even R34 GTT factory units. And don't forget to remove the panel behind your stock intercooler (through to the wheel arch) to increase the cooling airflow. To sum up. Buy a Power FC and get more go. Buy a cheap mismatched front mount intercooler and cars like my old R33 gtst will hand you your ass in a race and return better fuel ecconomy.

(perth)R32 GTR ECU --- From Australian R32 GTR, tuned for australian fuel and conditions (unlike aftermarket jap ecu's). Speed cut removed also. Keep it as a spare or use for a cheap and quick upgrade to your stock jap ecu. $100!!!

I'm running 700cc sard injectors, cams are tomei 260's and standard airflow meters. The Standard airflow meters run out of resolution over 400rwhp and it's easier to tune with something bigger like the Rb20/25's and they are a straight plug in. If you are shooting for more than 500 then Z32's are the shot. If you have the 0.6AR front N1's you should be able to get more out of it with bigger cams.

The larger 0.6 AR front N1's are good for more top end power. I have the plain bearing group A's and at only 13.8 psi they can make around 400hp at the treads easy with cams (I have detuned my engine for a safe 370rwhp). If you wack the boost up to 20 psi with a better intercooler you could see as much as 500+rwhp. At those levels your engine needs to be made stronger and even before that an oil cooler is nice to have.

Turbo's sold!

Hi Mike, I think basically you are not making the 181rwkw at the strip for some reason. I suggest the 'hot' air your pod is drinking in when you run. Did you dyno with the bonnet down? Get a cold air partition made and it should be fine mate.

If it is set correctly and is a plumb back it will be fine.

The Following items are presently spoken for ; Turbos Cams Injectors Pending transactions. That leaves the poor old ecu. How about I drop that to $100 not going any lower, an absolute bargain!

As above... You spill oil everywhere. If it's on too tight then spear it with a screw driver to turn it, you don't have much room to do this but I don't think you have a hope in hell of getting a filter wrench on. I went a remote filter almost only for this reason