rev210

From what I know the ATTESSA system on the GTiR is only different to the R32 GTR in terms of the FWD normal drive Vs RWD normal drive modes.

The oil filter you choose should always be the correct spec for your car and it's application. The construction of the valvoline and ryco filters doesn't differ from factory and it's reflected in the price. Nissan $8.80 and ryco <$10 Valvoline normally the same. Buy a turbo diesel filter for a Pajero and they cost upwards of $50 no matter if it's mitsubishi or ryco. Why? Because Diesel filters have to work far harder than petrol ones. The materials to meet factory spec. (as per the ryco) cost just the same. So do you want to use a diesel filter on your car if it will fit? No. The filter in the diesel does filter far better than the skyline one from nissan but, does so at the cost of oil flow. The diesel's oil system is designed with this in mind the skylines engine is not. I would be greatly concerned however if the nissan factory filter cost $50 and the ryco was $8. This indicates missing bit's or cheaper materials used. I did see some time ago a fairly comprehensive test of various filters offered including aftermarket so-called performance ones. Some times ones used just for 'track' or performance will not have the return valve or use a less fine filter material as it limits flow potential. You throw oil and filter away after the meet anyway. The very fine material that does get through may wear slightly more on the bearings over a longer time but, on a race engine that gets new bearings and rings often they don't really care. Ditto with filtration of the air, often they just use a foam sock if they even use anything at all. While I'm on this point, it's not a bad idea if you have a serious horsepower car to change your diff, gearbox and engine oil straight after a night of drag racing or circuit day. You would not believe how quickly this sort of abuse 'ages' the oil. Under these circumstances throw away the 'change @ 5,000km' idea. Sadly people don't know any better, dispite being fussy about good oil and regular changes.

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The GTiR is very close to the R32gtr in straight line (1/4mile). Increase boost and do not pass go and go directly to 12's. Attessa system is there just like the GTR and on a shorter wheel base, they don't have oiling issues. If you know how to drive an R32 GTR you know that the understeer is what the uneducated feel because they don't plant the right foot enough at the right time in the cornering.

I put this series right up with police academy, although like that series it should be veiwed as a comedy. No Vin diesel! Oh what a disaster! If we are all lucky maybe he's vowed never to try and act again?

Price Drop!!!! $5000 ono !!!!!!!!!

112mph is hello mid to low 12's with the right traction, keep at it

when things leak they usually do so almost randomly. If you haven't tried to check the tension on ALL of the intercooler pipes then I suggest you do so, if not only because you should do this on a regular basis as part of maintenence.

you have a heat related leak (both of you). As the heat increases the rubber softens and allows some air to leak out. Sad to say but put a scewdriver to each and every one of your hose clamps might fix it

Axle tramp is not your flywheels fault. If you have fitted pineapples I suggest you retension the mounts. also how much is the terminal speed up by? you might be losing some of the 50rwkw under track conditions.

Dude! What the is going on there? You have to be shifting pretty darn slow for that to happen. I never had that problem.And I had the same flywheel as well?

Hi Pete, Hows the accelleration improvement, should go a little better now.

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Unfortunately if the ecu in the car has jap chip in it, the actual timing map is going to remain even if you retard the base timing. The S-AFC in that case might be one step forward two steps back. Dropping the boost down to 0.6 bar gives you some head room to adjust the AFR's using a S-AFC however. The S-AFC II can also monitor knock levels.

Cubes, I reckon he needs to ditch the jap chipped ecu before he goes and gets a S-afc. Why touch the AFRs if you are running a mickeys hair away from detonation on the timing map? Swap/sell the ECU and get a stockie + SAFC is a solution but, the adjustable timing map is a top thing to have. Re-map the ecu locally is a very good idea if thats something he can do.

I would lose the ecu mate. I reckon the timing map would look pretty nasty, it would be sailing pretty close to the wind. Thats something a SAFC is not going to fix either. 3 things you should always have tuned with a margin for error; 1) AFR 2) Boost 3) Timing Each one yeilds more power as it approaches the danger zone. In your case the lowish boost and rich AFR's are probably helping things, I wouldn't be in a hurry to go leaning things out with a S-AFC.

I've got a GTR work car now that is more fun to drive, I had to sell the GTST to get the GTR simple logic. The GTR will bolt in a mid 11 pretty easy. I also had fitted a nitrous kit just before selling it and would have liked to have made a few passes with that on as well. 2rismo ended up with my old nitrous kit parts and after he added a few thing to it he got a stock turbo'd GTST into the 11's with a shot of the gas. Thats a good effort in anyones books.

Sold it before I got to the track again to try. The last run it ever did was 13.3@106mph and a 2.3 60ft (205 tyres), so in a nut shell with wider rear tyres a high 12 would have been pretty easy, the 60ft just needed to be about 2.1. There are now quite a few r33's with stock turbo's that can lay claim to the 12 second title. I'm not sure if any of them did it with the stock intercooler though?

keithblack engines do a street alloy hemi engine that would be perfect as a twin turbo setup, 500+ cubic inches with various crank stroke options. Lighter than the cast iron RB motors too. You just need to shoe horn it in and fit a strong gearbox to it.

Here's a usefull peice of info that's based in age old reality; 1) You increase power = you wear things out faster = money and time * As far as this concerns your search for a workshop I suggest you remember that anyone one stupid enough to give you a warranty for work aimed at enabling you to thrash your car with every greater joy is probably a bit too silly to do the work properly.Think about it... 'hi there I want to increase the power on my car so I can thrash my car can you give me a warranty?'. Bottom line is race cars don't come with warranties. A GTR is already very close to a race car so tipping it over the line means get ready for the enevitable. This means after you up the power one day, drive it out of the workshop (or your shed if you do things yourself) and the day after it just might break, thats life. 2) A personal project is a ball and chain, where the ball is time & money is the chain. You are going to be tied down for a while to get the car to the point where your happy with it and don't want to change another thing. As far as workshops are concerned.If you rely on people to do work on your car (including yourself), there are always the unpredictable things in life to slow everything down. Ask anyone who has spent their lives restoring or hot rodding cars how many years a car can take to 'finish'. I know of plenty that have taken 3+years to finish without a lack of money to slow them down. 3) Spend a long time planning the whole car before you hand over cash. If you are new to the game you will make mistakes anyway with ideas you thought would be good but turn out to be a dissapointment. Turbo size comes to mind as an example. research is good experience is better. There are a number of great people about who are happy to show off their rides at cruises, even take you for a drive. There's 2c worth of my advice. Sounds like cars aren't as much fun as people keep telling you? Well they still are if you aren't in a daydream about it. C-Red, you are quite right ,sometimes the Rb26's don't even last that long. Mine is still alive and healthy at 250,000kms but there are good reasons for that, the biggest is that it hasn't had a great deal of power put through it , even now.

I get a car allowance for work. Hmmm hire purchase a falcon or commodore or hire purchase an original Nissan australia delivered R32 GTR? The R32 has been a good work car as was the R33 GTST for 3 years before it (complete with nitrous setup that one). Most modifications (including group A turbos) and all quality oils, fuel and repairs are tax deductions too

obviously the tailshaft has nothing to do with the drivable nature of the car other than the fact that the carbon units actually eliminate more harmonics, therfore making things much smoother potentially. I think we should have the 'flywheel' debate on a different thread althogether.

did you dial the cams in at all? Adjustments to camshaft timing is critical to make them work right. Just putting them in at 0 is silly

It's not just the 10kw gain, it's the fact that the gain is across the power band. Very good comparison indeed. Such an increase in average power delivery would make the car alot quicker.

You must have had a dodgy one. It's a shame because a good one has absolutely NO downsides as far as driving around town is concerned. Next time try a better brand. I found the Ogura chromemolly units (4.8kg) work mint for RB's. Excellent ballance. Always sad to hear when someone gets something substandard. On topic again.... Group buy wise I shall make inquiries now for something that will end in late Jan early Feb? We will see if we can get a target price just below the $2k mark delivered if that is possible. Its already a bargain I think as it is but, if we can get a few more guys on board we might get it a little keener on the price.