Color_Of_Green

I have them installed in my RB25DET SI. Not exactly sure but think they are 264 duration with 9mm lift. Excellent mid range. Gave me a nice fat curve.

Electrically assisting the turbo is probably the best solution. The challenge is feeding the necessary current to drive it which wouldnt really be feasable from the standard 12v car battery. A completely separate system would be needed. Like you said, when turbo is spooled and operated by exhuast turbine, the electric motor acts as a generator. You could assist recharge from standard alternator aswell. I wouldnt use a belt / pully do drive the turbine shaft from the electric motor as this would be fraught with problems ( some mentioned above ) plus probably wear the bearing from extra tension of the belt pulling down in one direction. With an electric motor sitting between the compressor and turbine directly driving the shaft you would eliminate any premature bearing wear, etc. The motor would need a special heat shield + cooling system to protect it from high temps. Definately Possible.

Thats seriously good consumption considering I'm around the 14-15L / 100Km for my RB25DET... ... but then I dont drive like a granny ;-) * runs away *

Good stuff. And yes, my concern is the fact that a certain volume of air gets measured, fuel added, then BOV vents so running rich. I would really like to eliminate this and tell the PFC exactly how much air is going into the engine... Re the scan time question before, I would not like to delay the AFM reading to the PFC if its input scan latency exceeds the time it takes for air to travel past the AFM and actually into the engine. I have seen some throttle bodies where each half of the butterfly rotates back in the direction of the air flow and is supposed to reduce turbulence... Also, all of this stuff assumes a single throttle body setup. So, based on this discussion its seems like a worthwhile exercise.

I have a PowerFC and pretty happy with it... seems to be more common and well known. I keep wondering about the Haltech, as it seems to have more features, software/firmware is kept up-to-date and can drive more external things like NOS, wide-band O2 sensor support, etc. Plus manuals are in English. Would be worth getting more opinions.

Dont get Venolia... Get CP or ACL pistons. Is that's the kit from hi-octane?

That function is there only to offer a basic starting point for your next tune. Back to the dyno my friend.

hmm good responses. What if it was positioned between two synchronized throttle bodies - would protect the AFM from reverse air flow. Anyone know the latency of the Power FC input scan?

I've always been curious as to why an air flow meter is positioned so far away from the intake manifold?

HKS or Tomei poncams and full 3" system + race cat dude

Twin oil coolers * Yum *

me also

Personally I dont like that setup, sorry. Having it sit behind the intercooler would be much better IMHO, but if you werent getting enough air you could have tried some ducting + thermofan. Cheers

And what was it before the hi-flow?

Stick with BP Ultimate

I have a K&N Pod + CAI

Hi there I recently experienced my engine cut out after driving for a while in the rain. When I got to work I checked for water under the bonnet - coil packs, inlet, connectors, etc but all was good & dry. Thought it would be ok if I left the car under cover during work but turned out my nice new nismo fuel pump stuffed its release valve and so had no fuel pressure. I have had the release valve removed/blocked and a Sard fuel pressure reg installed. Its all been great the last couple of days except today again during heavy rain I was experiencing momentary engine cuts around 4000rpm and 30% load. My PFC knock value does _not_ increase when this happens so I am gathering its not a fuel blockage / pressure drop issue. I am leaning towards an electrical fault somewhere... but how to trace? I mean, what else would have stuffed the release valve in the fuel pump like that? Or could a faulty fuel pump cause this type of thing? Just wondering if anyone has experienced something similar or may understand what is happening? Cheers

Hey good work. If your car is now tuned for water/meth then what happens when you run out?

.. just looked at the product mentioned, and not a "Supercharger" as we know it but more a brand name that represents Voltage stabilizer kit. I dont how people can charge (no pun intended) $999 your for what is basically a few capacitors and larger guage earth wire. f*cking tossers. You may as well go buy some cheap magnets and stick 'em up your arse.

.. yeah I was just being polite about it

From what I understand about electric superchargers & turbos is that the majority of them are aimed at smaller NA vehicles that want a little kick for a short amount of time by increasing intake by 1 or 2 psi. They also require a lot of current to drive them and so having any more than short bursts will quickly deplete your battery. Some of them have an auxillary battery, but then it only increases the amount of time you can have the motor on. I.e. no good for track work. Other people have tried taking current directly from the alternator but what gains you make through increase air you lose through additional load on the engine due to the load on the alternator. What people should look at is using an electric motor to assist the spooling up of large turbos, but then let the exhuast drive the turbine normally.

laggy, RB30 bottom end should fix that

Tomei have a 2.8 ltr kit for RB25DET, uses a custom forged GTR full counter balanced crank. is about 620,000 Yen. I was considering an RB25/30 conversion but that crank has really got me considering the tomei kit instead.

The main thing is the FMIC, dont skimp on that one. The plazmaman has nice swept back end tanks and good core. ARC I believe make the best cores. Should be able to make close to 220 with stock air box (with good K&N filter) and stock plenum. Need a good 3" dump + 3" cat back. Yes stock fuel system at that point. Needed a fuel cut defender on the stock ECU though. Cheers

Back on topic though, he's got a GTS already and 7k to spend ... like I said before you could sell what you;ve got and buy a pre-modded GTS or add a bit more and buy a stock R33 GTR, or follow my path and implement StageI as described above. If you do what I did then you'll end up spending over 20k but you end up with a 280rwkw daily driver. Granted, I now have traction problems - is why i;m doing StageIV outlined above. But my plans are to do a little drag and circuit for fun.. truth is I'll be getting a "family car" soonish so my wife can drive the bubba around at that point I may sell my current setup and drop in a 26/30 'nuff said