(OO_The4door_OO)

Hey I hope somebody can tell me where I can get one of these badges for my car. When my car was shipped over it had one, but the pr1ck who last owned the car stripped it off and slapped on a GTS-t badge just so he could save in insurance!! I'm pretty damn sure it did have this badge because you can see the impression behind the GTS-t badge on the boot lid, and the english translation on the original ECU said GTS-R. I saw them at Auto Salon at some stand, but that was before I even thought of buying the car, so I know they do exist.

Mad082 you are one hell of a hot head and I might add not very observant. In my original post I said "and know what some people on this forum mean when they say don't always point the finger at the driver.",that from reading other threads people like you critisize other people for what ever reason because you may think better of yourself. "So who are to point and say you are a terrible and unsafe driver? When we can't even prove how we would react in an emergency situation, the "speeding" driver could very well be the better." Point being, "He without sin cast the first stone". My thread was NOT to winge about the fact that I lost my licence, infact I'm loving it, I can't be designated driver untill I get my licence back so I get to drink every weekend, no petrol costs, I sleep in the car when ever I want!!! My thread was to voice my opinion over Australia's current transport infrastructure and to hear other peoples thoughts, not to get smart ar$e comments from w@nkers who think they're perfect. I happen to be a very cautious driver in normal driving conditions, and haven't set foot in a drivers seat since the loss of my licence. So for anybody else who doesn't have anything constructive to add to this topic you know where to shove it.

Let me see your driving record before you start throwing around profanity.

Now that is a quote worth taking further.....

Windsor road Sydney

I just wanted to voice my opinion over a very sensitive matter. I had spent about $4000 on advanced driver training before I lost my licence and know what some people on this forum mean when they say don't always point the finger at the driver. Two of my business mates are retired infrustructure engineers ( road designers ) and what they have to say will amaze you. Any one notice speed limits decreasing over the last few decades? Any one ever ask themselves why? It's not like the roads get less-safe.... No moron! Drivers standards are decreasing! (based on a mean average ) In other words, F1 drivers go 130km/h around a corner because they have the skills and are simply VERY GOOD DRIVERS. Same goes on the public road - you get drivers who simply are better drivers by nature and then you get drivers who, well you know, let's just call them not very good drivers. The problem is, and as auto insurance companies have stated, there are more of them (in %) than there where 10-20 years ago. Now these infrustructure engineers are to set the speed limits for the less able driver, which is kinda thier best option to keep things fool proof. So when they design and lay down a new road they must factor in these "not so good drviers" and set a speed limit which is safe to EVERYONE, and they know too well that the road is capible of much faster traffic. To further prove my point, look at the driver structure in Germany. Notice they HAVE NO SPEED LIMITS on thier main roads yet the accident rate is ridiculously low. But then I bet you haven't seen the method of getting your licence there. They train and test the raisins out of you and you can know all the road rules they impose, but the rule stands of you are not a good driver you will not get your licence. So who are to point and say you are a terrible and unsafe driver? When we can't even prove how we would react in an emergency situation, the "speeding" driver could very well be the better. Now I'm not saying all speeding drivers are not at fault. Most of them are. I am just annoyed at people pointing at all the ones who got caught. The guys who get them selves wrapped around a pole are obviously the idiots and really should have thier licences revoked - but you get drivers who are perfectly able to travel 30-50km/h over the speed limit in a car and on a road that has been engneered to do so (as proved in Germany). The problem is exposing who is and who isn't. FYI I was doing 116km/h in a 60km/h zone on a dead straight 4 lane road at 12am. and lost my licence for 19 months (NSW) That is my 4.9345 cents Justin

Google is a lovely thing: http://www.envyimports.com.au/shop/category19_1.htm or http://www.jshop.com.au/index.php?page=sho...&id=KEY01-RN010

There are a few ways to mute your stereo, but they will need somebody who is good at designing circuits from scratch (like me). Two examples: 1. If your head unit has the provision for telephone muting, you would use an isolated switched output controlled by the internal amplifier of the radar detector to trick your head unit into thinking that you are on the phone so it mutes itself when the radar detectors speaker sounds and resumes volume when the detector shuts up. This is how I have my Beltronics STI Driver set up. 2. If your head unit does not allow for phone muting but your car speakers are run off amplifiers, you would use the same switched output to iether turn the remote 12v to the amps off, or use it to switch an attenuation circuit (volume normal or really low) so the RCA feed is cut to a level where you can easily here the detector. Easy fix but entirely custom. Let me know how you go. Regards Justin

Google is a beautiful thing: Autowatch NSW (02) 9427 5883 VIC 1300 134 645 QLD 1300 134 645 446 RLi from $400

Yup, easy one. This device: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...eMax=&SUBCATID= takes the "high level output" of an amplifier (like the small one inside your headunit) and feeds out a "low level output" or "RCA" - a signal your new amp can use. If you put a high level output straight into the amp's low level input, you'll kill the amp. The device from Jaycar needs no power, you just connect the four wires (which are labeled on the device) to the deck and presto.

Hey mark, I need your Gearbox really badly, I only have a few days of rego left and I don't feel like going through the whole blue slip proceedure. Tell me where my mechanic can pick it up and I think he will pay cash, he is in Hornsby. I hope you haven't sold it by the time you read this. Regards, Justin

The main aim of the system is for cars like mine, car is lowered to offer best handling, but to stay within the legal height requirements (100mm). Problem is when I want to get up a driveway or over a speedhump, some times the whole sideways job is not enough. With this system people can keep their optimum ride settings, and going on less level terrain will no longer be a problem, just lift her up, and when over, drop her back down. And is intended for the general public, not just race cars.

The TEIN system uses a hydraulic actuator powered by an electric motor to raise and lower, my system does not replace any components, merely adds to the ride height adjustable coilovers already installed so handling stays the same.

There is realy no need to get so exited dude.... How do you think they rotate a 2.7 ton telescope off a 9v battery? Just let me take care of the design and you worry about what ever it is you do. My goal on this forum is to find out how many people would be interested in such an idea, not what they thought of it. Just watch out for the product in about 12 months time when it goes public. Till then I've got to take care of patents and such stuff.

Runs on 12v and consumes about 8 amps under load. It's just a simple change of momentum, eg kW and torque. Have enough of one, swap it for the other ;-)

So far the scaled down prototype on the ground lifts the front of my car 5 inches in 15 seconds. Now thats just one tiny replica of what fits under the wheel arch. Most of the final products parts are not very big and will be quite universal over most cars. And although torque is required to lift it, those of us who know a thing or two about kinetics, making that much energy is a sinch ;-) and large powerhungry components are not needed.

Changing form of the spring by forcing it open or closed will never get ADR authorisation, what I plan to do in no way modifies the existing setup, and is fail safe, so your car won't fall apart should something go wrong.

Just doing some market research..... Would you like to have an add-on kit and sit in your car and flick a switch to lift and lower your car even while you are driving? I am prototyping on an add on system which is simply bolted on to remotely change the ride height of the car without jacking up the car or taking the wheels off. The system is electronic, not hydraulic or pnumatic (airbags) which means you keep the handling aspect. And it will meet the ADR requirements to make it perfectly legal for street use. I estimate the total system will cost somewhere around AU$2000 - AU$3000, cheaper than it's hydraulic and pnumatic rivals.

Ok, check this: where you made the join on the original wires, take the two wires which go to the alarm module and use the continuity check on you multimeter. If you don't get a staight circiut when in the disarmed mode you may have crossed the pairs. Refer to attached diagram. One last question, is this the Shadow alarm from Jaycar Electronics???

R31 - 99.9% sure it's sine wave. Not even my R33 speed servo has a square wave output, the ECU just has an op amp sitting on the speed input stage to change the sine to square.

Simple question: When was ABS put into Skylines? and do all recent models come with it?

Actually frx026, if you have ever done the PIC programming for alarm/immobiliser modules, you'd know what goes on inside. The simple function of the module is that one can lock the car and walk away while the motor is in the cool down stage. During this stage the alarm is armed. The purpose of that is so you don't have to stand around and wait for the turbo timer to run out, then you lock the car. Now if some one came along how do they get into your car to "find the turbo timer, trigger it and bang, there is your ignition, roll start it, the car is gone, you lost your ride." if the car is LOCKED and if they actualy manage to open any doors the engine immediatly stops and the immobiliser points kick in??? Trust me markOhR33 manufacturers do this on purpose and why would they keep doing it if it was so easy to steal the car? I've been installing alarms for years and now program my own alarm systems. My R33 has no more key to get in or start the car, every thing is done by the rolling code remote - remote engine start; unlocking the doors etc. There is no more ignition barrel but a keypad for me to put in a 8 digit code to access car functions and if any unauthourised access to the car happens there is a GSM remote module which calls my mobile to let me know the alarm has gone off. To add to that simple GSM tracking software lets me call the car to find it's location any where in the world down to a 5m radius. Did that alarm in my spare time.

If you can organise the wireless internet, and your LCD has a spare input, grab an old PC and throw a Jaycar Electroncs XC4875 12v ATX power supply and a cheap graphics card with a composite video output and you are all set!! Call Jaycar AU 1800 022 888 to find out if they have any XC4875 in stock.

Real easy one. Unplug the RCAs at the amp - if the noise is still there, check the amps ground. If the noise goes away - replace the RCA cable with a GOOD quality one - if the noise still persists, the noise is being pumped in straight from the source (normally headunit). Reply if noise still persists.

I don't understand the problem? You can lock the doors with the remote but you have to lock the drivers door with the key?? By the sound of it your turbo timer has an immobiliser bypass while in the cooling down stage. This is a prefered option.