WogsRus

if the coolant sensor has been replaced, it's the CAS belevie it or not, been there done that. see if you can borrow one to confirm.

where is the engine located, i can have a look if in hobart

sweet thanks will have a look

by a small puff, i mean you can't see it unless looking at the tail pipe. And if you flog it dead cold, not a thing to do anyway, you will see a white/blue smoke behind for a second or so. Not a massive plume, just enough to notice. I think it might be turbo seals leaking a bit. OK STOP WARYING ABOUT IT. GOT IT. LOL.

thanks guys. Yeah i will pul the pipes off to have a look. I know when I tested the compretion 2 weeks ago it was all good. Will do a leak down and so forht. Showed my old man, who is a bit of a car buff, and he reconed it was nothing, it could be th oil in it, as it is very thin, and synthetic, FUCHS oil. I followed the car behind, and did not see any clods of smoke out of the car while running hot, but the oil is a bit high, propably 3-5 mmover full line. OOPPPSSS. Didn't spot this before.

hi recently i notice on cold start, there will be a puff, a very small one,not one you will see unless looking at the exhaust pipe. No it only does this when cold, a puff, and that's it, unless you give it a boot fool when cold, and then maybe another puff. Now the turbo has had a hard life, and i am wandering if it is that in anyway, or something starting to let go. It hasn't used any oil and i only noticed it since i put the synthetic stuff in it. Commpression is good, no leak down yet. Car runs strong andso forht.

dam, nice gains,you got to be happy with that. Congrats.

thanks guys will do, see what else i can find to fix.

diff bushes, where are they, do you mean the pinaples or something else. The diff doesn't wine at all, not a bit. Basically if move the drive shaft, the diff stangs still, and you can rotate the shaft 0.5-1cm before it meets any resistance. It's not in the drive shafts as far as i can tell. So i am wandering if there is any way to fix this.

bumpiedebumpbump

if you set it to 15, according to the crank and the copmputer is telling you it's 15, then the timming is way off. If it runs like crap at 15, i sugest the timing is out a toth or two. Sometimes too, the key on the harmonic balancer brakes, and the referances are all screrwed up, so 15 is actualy 40 or somethign stupid.

the ZERO point is the yellow marer on the pulley. Esentially if the light is on the pulley, the ZERo mark is the first mark form top, so it goes 0 5 10 15 20 25 30

read through my install of AMECS white face gauges.

what the fcuck. That is near imposible unless your timing is stuffed. Does the car drive well? aldo how tight is your spring setup in the BOV, maybe the vacume line for that is not connected properly, but techincally these is no way a turbo can make that boost at no load????

I can do all that, i race all the time, not in that car. What i am refearing to is driving slowly through town, in second, when off/on gas, you can feel the backlash in the diff, the slack in the pinion and backlash. That is what i want to cure.

HI guys I have a Serie 1.5 R33 GTST, and ever since i installed the new clutch, i have notice the backlash in the diff bad, due to the harshnes of the clutch. Can somone point me to how, or if it is possible, to adjust the backlash on the diff? I have read the DIY's but there is nothing there. Do i need to take the whole diff out? Or can it be done on the car? Any help would be greatly appriciated.

Don't know but the sound has resolved itself. LOL.

no probs all good mate, will buy a new licence for upgrades for future.

i'm running a modified Central 20 ECU, works a treat. Still have R&R but at 14 psi. Keeps me happy.

took me 1.5 hours to get the box out, with me and a mate, and 4 hours to put the f**ka back in, the dam thing is sooo heavy when your in a pit.

Well the thing is, it's a Hitachi 6 month old battery. What has been happening. Basically, when I go to start the car when it is below 18 Deg C, the car splatters, sounds like it’s a bit flooded, revs at 300 rpm, then coughs, splatters and is fine from there. I have done many things, and over the weekend what I did was to turn the fuel pump off, and pressurize the fuel system with air, to remove all fuel, you will be surprised to hear that the car will run for 2 minutes on the fuel in the fuel rail alone. So after ensuring that there was no fuel in the rail, or injectors, I was hoping to solve my problems of cold start, but figuring out that it’s a leaking fuel injector. WELL, I reconnected the hoses, primed the lines and the car still started like crap. So I figure it’s not the injectors, but can someone shed some light on if what I did could prove that it was not the injectors. HELP.

I do see it quite a lot, and yeah stock turbo 15 pis. LOL. it ONLY runs that at overboost, round town it's 11 psi. I have had teh car on 3 dynos, and the readings are basically all the same, the car pulls liek a freight train, second is tricy eaven in the dry. So basically it is not a problem then. Is there Anyone that can look through the ecu data to see what the maps are like, just for fun????

is there any way somone can tell me what the maps in the ecu are like, i can download them with datascan, but i do not know how to interpret these. ANYONE help me?

well once started i get full 14.2 V charging, so possibly battery. But the qestion is more about wheather or not low cranking voltage is an issue.

Looking at my logs i have reached 5.1V a couple of time already. I am making about 217 rwKw and saw a few 5.1 volts. Not good?