Quinny

I don't want to go too nuts on the car, I basically want a package that is pretty quick, reliable and can be driven anytime, so race fuel is out, and as I said before, I am not after a drag car. I want to get a stock GTR (hard to find), and I don't want to have to spend heaps of money on it. I think the basic FMIC, exhaust, computer and boost upgrades will suffice for performance, maybe 300rwhp on 12-13psi? I really don't want to have to keep throwning money at the car, and I don't really want to go to the extent of rebuilding the engine with forged internals and replacing the turbos. It seems that the GTR engine has been hyped up to be tougher than it really is, and I have overestimated its capability to make easy power. Non-the-less, the R33 GTR is a nice car, and one that I have wanted for quite a while, so I still want one (and will very likely buy one soon), I just can't go as nuts as I planned to.

No, I meant R33s, I have seen some with the black lip and some with a body coloured lip - probably same reason though.

Post up a pic of your car or one similar with the body kit etc, I can do a couple of photoshops if you like. Just give me a pic and some idea of the colours you are choosing between. I can change rims too, so if you put up a pic of the rims you want, I can add them to the pic.

Champion. That is a big help. Most of the stuff is pretty common with all cars, but a few things in there that I didn't think of. I notice on the R33 GTRs that some have the lip on the front bar painted the same as the car, and some are just black. Is this normal, I figured that they were black from factory, and that the painted ones were done later. Is this right? Would a painted front lip be an indication that the car might have had other paint work (i.e. front accident repair) or was the coloured lip available from factory?

When looking for a "good" GTR, what are some things that you should be looking for? Is there any common problems or tell-tale signs of abuse that might indicate that the car has been thrashed or mistreated. I agree that buying a cheap car is not the best way to go as it can cause problems later (learnt that lesson the hard way), but just because a car is more expensive does not mean that it is any better. A GTR for $20K might be in better condition (mechanically) than a similar one for $25K. I have heard that the rear turbo on the GTR can have heat problems - causing the turbo to fail. Is there anything else that people have had experiences with that one should look for when buying a GTR?

Looks awesome, that is exactly what I am after. If you don't mind me asking, what did it cost you to get brought over? I have been looking into getting an R33 GTR imported, but I am not sure if it is really worth the hassle of not being able to inspect the car prior to buying, organising shipping, getting compliance, waiting 3 months for it all to happen etc for the little bit of money you save. Was the import process a smooth one or did you have any troubles?

How does the gearbox cope with 7000rpm clutch dumps? From previous experience, it is best to use clutch slip to take the strain off the driveline when launching at high revs. I would have thought this would be especially important in an AWD car.

Thanks mate, I was wodering how much boost the standard turbos will take. How much power can the standard fuel system cope with? Will I need to upgrade the injectors, fuel pump, regulator or anything for 350rwhp? Sorry for all the questions, I want to try and learn as much about these cars as I can before I go and buy one. I will have plenty more questions yet. I have been playing with Commodores for the past few years so this is kind of a new area of the performance market for me.

Cheers, I have heard of GTRs making big HP on "stock" engines. In my case, I am not after a drag car, just a quick, reliable streeter (that will occasionally get taken to WSID). It sounds like 400rwhp is pushing the limits of a stock engine and definitely past the limit of the stock turbos, so I think that if I stick to around the 300-350rwhp mark, I should be pretty right - but it is nice to know there is room for improvement if I get a bit more adventurous. One more question: How much boost does a GTR run in stock form. Some people say 7psi, some say 12..... can anyone shed any light?

Thanks guys, thats a big help. I figure if I am going to rebuild the engine and replace the turbos, I may as well stick with V8 Commodores, so I think I will try to stick to bolt on mods with around 300rwhp or so in a GTR, which should be good for mid 12s I would think. I know that dynos can vary, I am not overly worried about figures, more just the actual performance of it.

Ok, so the main thing is to replace the turbos. Sorry, I am new to this, what do you mean by power f/c and ebc? I am really only after mild mods, I really don't want to go into rebuilding the engine with different internals, new cams etc. I have been through that with my VN, I would rather stick to bolt on mods. I think that low 12s from a daily street driven skyline would be more than adequate, how much power should I be aiming for to achieve this? Maybe 300hp @ wheels?

Hi all, I am new to the forum, and pretty new to Skylines in general. I am looking at purchasing an R33 GTR in the not-too-distant future. My question is, how hard is it to get 350-400hp @ the wheels from an R33 GTR? I will be doing the obligitory FMIC and exhaust mods, but what else do I need. Is it just a matter of adding a bit more boost or is it not that simple? Can it be done on the standard turbos? Would this be a safe power level for an internally stock RB26? How would the gearbox cope? What boost does a GTR run from factory? I am basically after a package that will give me reliable power, enough to run low 12s (at least - 11s would be better) consistantly and reliably. I did a search before posting this, but I couldn't find any decent posts to answer these questions. If this is a stupid question that has been asked countless times before, please point me in the right direction. Any help would be appreciated.