tacker

Ok tyres have done about 300kms of road use....and its always bloody hot here Front brakes have only done about 100kms so i think they could do with a little more so i will take care of that tomorrow morning at the track. Engine tune is not purfect but the AFR are safe right through the rev range and i will work on these and the timing during the day. Tyre pressures i am told about 32 all round with the Be55. And thanks for the tips keep them coming.

I was lucky enough to race at one of the Adelaide F1 GPs in a super kart. And the guy who won ( cant not remember his name ) set lap times good enough to start off the second last row in the F1 race.

Update! Ok after many funny phone calls to the Japanese auto federation (JAF) i have documented proof that the Cusco D1 7 point cage has the jaf approval, and as such they are an associated member of the FIA and therefore their approval carries FIA approval. I purchase a 40mm crome moly 7 point bolt in cage from Cusco, and its a quality product i must say i will post some pic later but is was a purfect fit and was only a few hours to bolt it in. And the price was Aus $ 1010 delivered to Dubai! Regards

Cant wait as friday we have our first practice session for the up and coming national production race series. Will be the first time car has been out on track in months and the first time with the 8 point roll cage and the new adjustable front and rear upper control arms, replaced hicas with lock bar, and new be55's so i hope to see a big improvement. Have also installed a second oil cooler in series with the original item, checked and replaced all the fluids in gear box etc etc. One area i am not to sure about but i guess i will know after friday is the brakes. I have new slotted discs and project mu 900 pads, new dot 5 fluid brake stopper and nismo braded steel lines all round. And thanks to the pics on the gibson GTRs i have copied the brake ducting to all 4 wheels so i hope not to feel any fad. Time will tell on this one. The Power fc has been tuned but i hope to improve that during the day as the car now carries a wide band lambada sensor so i can check during the 4 sessions. Removed the AC pump and coil so i get plenty of air through the radiator and install 2 very neat vents into the top of the bonnet to allow some heat to be removed from the engine bay. Not sure what more i should look at before friday any suggestions would be welcome

Oh bugga! Came to the same conclusion myself, but have found a mob who will make one for me in 2 days or so they say

Quick question, will a R33 screen fit into a R32 as its all i can get here in Dubai. any help will be gratefully received.

plugs are the same but the flex hose will fit if you try really hards LOL. you will need a re map thought as i did this to find it was very lean on the air fuel ratio.

Try the yellow pages thye are a fairly big mob for brakes. Think the ABS stands for Australian brake services

Why dont we ask Jimmy Richards about the diifference between the porka and the R32 he drove to win the 1992 bathurst. Does everyone remember the infamous you're all a pack of A##eholes. He must have some fond memories of the day:-)

Try ABS for RDA slotted rotors will set you back about $270 for 2 front discs

Not to sure about the sims. I have just finished removing all the parts and i can now change the oil filter, fist time i have seen the little bugger

One other memeber posted a little while back that he weighed the items removed and then subtracted the lock bar and it was 22 Kg of kit removed from the car.

Just had the car out for the first time since the PFC when in and its made a big difference! Started to adjust some of the fuel map and it has made a big difference, its so much clean to accelerate now, V happy.

Taz, I am the first to admit i am not expert but i have read just about all the forum threads and from what i read the stock internals are good for 500HP. The matter of changing injectors and pump to suit your uprated turbo's is more like insurance, as you will push more air into your engine you will need to be able to push a simular % increase of fuel. Are you sure your old fuel system is up to the job after so many years of service. High duty cycle on your injctors is bound to let you down as some stage and a lazy fuel pump is just a good way to run up a rebuild bill. The fuel pump upgrade is the easy part it will not take more than a few hours to drop a new in tank pump. And you will have peice of mind for about $250 with regards to pumps. ECU, funny i have just start to learn self tunning as there is no other option here in the middle east. But i put the wide band AF ratio meter on this week and found the engine to be running leanish on a stock ECU, again a good way to run up a rebuild bill. Ordered a Apexi PFC so i could adjust the fuel mixtures ( after a little drama with the PFC that is ). But is running well now. Cost about $1000 delivered Cams i have no idea how stock cams could damage your engine with regards to more boost being forced into your engine with the larger turbo's on. I dont believe that for a moment. Still good mod to have if you want to get all the HP out of your engine could develop with more boost, and i am sure they would suit your other mods if you desided that was the way you wanted to go. But not a must have like your fuel pump, injectors and Apexi PFC or other bands of ECU. My very new 2cents worth

Thanks Craved i got it sorted or should i say it sorted its self out.

Paul The pfc version is the 8.04A The commander is 5.01A Regards

Paul, when i get back from the office tonight i will check for you. Its newly delivered from japan and i got a good price for it as well. Turns out its about 880 plus 30 for shipping, give or take a dollar for exchange rates. Been buying my parts through one company in tokyo and i have to say they have been great to me. On a side note i have just recieved my innovate wide band O2 AFR meter. I have the rb25 afm's on this GTR and i was surprise with just how close the AFR were before i changed over to the PFC. I just it was running a little lean but never once got over 14 throughout the rev range. Cant wait to do some tuning or learn how to first, nice and slow i would guess.

Well i have used the tried and tested method of leaving the bugger over night to heal and bugga me if it didnt just work. I dont know what to say but it seems to just work, i have just done the idle procedure as recommended and it is now sitting at a nice 850 rpm no matter what i turn on or a little rev here and there. Big smile and the office staff wont have to put up with me grumping around all day. Thanks for your help Ryno and Paul.

Just installed my new Power fc only to find that id continually clikcks and flashs the hand controller and the exhaust temp light i think. (Edit) the car has no cat and i think that the exhaust gas temp probe is disconnected, would this be a problem? Any suggestion would be welcome at this point. regards

Installed my Pfc tonight and followed the intructions onthis forum. But i think i have a problem as when i turn the power on to set the boost controller option in just continues to click and flash the engine warning light. I am new to these units but i did a sensor check and it is flashing up the TPS, I am not even sure that R32 GTR have one of them. Any ideas please Regards

Sounds like bad connections some where. There is no way a small motor like a fuel pump is going to bother a starter motor. If anything at all the starter motor would take the power away from the fuel pump due to the starter having a lower winding resistance than the fuel pump.

Not something like a bad ACC relay?

Noel, Just through in a set of pads on the weekend and it took all of 15 minutes to do so. Have a crack at it there is DIY guides on the site it very simple. Set of front ultimate pads and RDA slotted disc will set you back 370$ from ABS for a GTR so i would expect it to be a little under the GTR cost for your GTS well i think thats what they told me over the phone when i ordered mine.

Wonder if that pop is a blow back through the intake, not good if it is.

Strange, does the starter motor sound like its struggling to turn the motor over. Do your self a favor if you have a multi meter connect it across the battery terminals and record what your minimum voltage was during the time your starter motor was turning over.