Erelyes

Cheers mate. Seems some people get lucky others don't. It looks like the motor was detonating (to be expected if it was overboosting I suppose) as the pistons had a lot of detonation damage, and the bearings were stuffed. The bores were very scoured too, not sure if that's from the pistons or bits of ceramic turbo. By the by now. Have been trying to avoid the rabbit hole too much on the rebuild, and there's been a few hurdles along the way, but with any luck I'll have the car back soon™. Might even pop up a thread then.

All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?

Cheers Lith! You're right, it's entirely possible that there's other reasons for the low compression. It's off to the shop soon, skipping borescoping etc and just getting it out and apart, we'll see what it looks like then.

Yeah car has 110 on the clock. That said the front turbo (that exploded) doesn't seem to be the original, it has a S1 part number but the car is a series 3. Yep, in the cat is where I first found the turbine wheel pieces - a couple decent sized ones, then a whole lot of fragments. I agree, probably makes sense to upgrade parts that are being replaced. Things like rods would be 'nice' but realistically it seems unlikely they would need replacing. I was hoping that it was a case that they generally f**k up the valves but not the bore, or vice versa. Is it generally the scour damage rather than ceramic bits getting mashed into the piston tops / valves? I tried a search but couldn't find any threads with pics from the guts of a motor that's had this happen.

Long time no see, I haven't posted since 14 years ago... To cut to the chase, R32 GTR. dead stock. Split wastegate hose = stock turbos were overboosting = front turbo's exhaust wheel has shattered. Have done a compression test following this and the results are (dry, cold) - 120 / 60 / 75 / 110 / 150 / 150. Haven't bothered with a wet test or leakdown test. The results definitely support front turbo failure (on 1-3) however the low compression on #4 is concerning too. Can anyone share their experience of when their turbine wheel shattered and damaged their motor - and what work needed to be done afterwards? Pistons? Rings? Valves? Throwing in the bin or salvageable? Motor is 100% stock. Will be getting it looked at further soon - I don't have a borescope and head hasn't come off (yet).

Have you thought about flocking it? You "might" find the fibreglass is a bit glare-y.

Hey Dean. What's the usual tare of a trailer you've built with those specs? Tandem axle, hydro braked. Large enough to fit a skyline but nothing heavier. Cheers Pete

Never had any major mishaps myself. Once I had removed the towball to install a shinguard. Did it up tight. Was driving around with a tandem car trailer (Nothing on it) for about quarter an hour. Decided to check the towball. Glad I did, the nut was halfway down the threaded shank. Did it up as tight as I could kicking an adjustable spanner, drove slooooowly home and then did it up to FT (F'n tight). Another time, doing service for my mate's 89 RS Legacy in the tag-along for the NZ WRC. We, uh, had to go rescue the RS cos it had broken for the millionth time. However my car was already full. Didn't stop us did it. We were using my 2000 Outback (a 6 thankfully), I had it stacked to the gills with service crew and gear, towing the 1500kg rally car, on a tandem trailer, with the driver and co-driver sitting as low in the rallycar as they could so as to avoid being seen. Drove like that for maybe 5 k's through 50 zones. Took an hour cos we all stopped for pies (day was shot anyway) Oh, and I passed a cop like that too (Breath was held!)

So I have a question for the rally guys here... Does anyone know how much suspension travel the Nissans actually have? Or how much you can get out of em? Particularly the R32/33/34 and S13/14/15. My gut feeling is the 33/14 onwards will have better travel due to the higher rear strut? And the silvias will have more potential being mac strut in the front? Planning a build for here in NZ where the reg's are pretty easygoing for building a rally car (championships excepted) but don't want something that'll wind up with 90mm of suspension travel and put a strut through the bonnet if I get it airborne. Pete

Cheers mate, will have to check how much the customs goons would sting me with once it gets here. Not sure if I'm keen yet but if I end up needing/wanting one I'll PM you.

How much would one of these cost, shipped to Dunedin, New Zealand? For a R32.

Ah, I take it they're a bit quicker ratio then? I definately saw that the lines are different. Darn, should have thought to grab the lines when I ripped it out. (I decided to go and get one anyway, figured I could resell it if need be). As far as I know, to swap from power assisted to non power assisted, you just pull the rack out and remove the centre seal.

Hey all Long story short, I have a drift car, and need another steering rack to put in it. I'm going to disable the power steering in it, so that's not an issue. However, will an S13 steering rack fit an R32 skyline? I can use the tie rods / tierod ends off the Skyline rack if need be. Just wondering if the bolt locations and steering shaft input are the same. Did a search but not much info on it, and the only cars I've found with the modification are Jap ones, doesn't state if its boltin or not.

Spose that's a good idea. I was gonna whip the crank out and take it to a reconditioners to check it for bends, resize journals if necessary, so on and so forth. But have heard from one source that every gtr he's seen with a knocking bearing has resulted with a stuffed crank. R33 cranks, new, are around 2k new from what I hear, here in NZ. Doesn't seem worth it to me when I have an RB25DE i got for $500 bucks, with a free car. And can use the head/pistons in an RB30 NA conversion for my drifter. So the crank is fair game - and if it's in OK nick, why not use it in the GTR? It's only 60cc different and if I had .5 or 1mm over forged pistons and GTR rods anyways it'd be pretty much the same capacity as a factory RB26. With slightly better revs and slightly less torque. The main advantage of the GTR is the rods, block, and head. All of which people retain for their 450kw setups. And of course all the fancy stuff attached like hex throttles / twin turbs and a fancy 4wd system... I was just wondering if RB25 pistons/crank would result in the same compression in a 26 block as they would in a 25 block. Cause if they can and there's aftermarket RB25 forgies that give 9:1, it'd be a good option...

I know 25/25 or 26/26 pistons/crank must match. Said so in my post. "shitty" RB25 gear. RB25/26 cranks are basically same except for stroke. And maybe bearing width. Will use 26 rods as I said. And forged pistons anyway. So whats the 'shitty' rb25 gear remaining? 300rwkw is a walk in the park for 25/26 cranks alike anyway. 26 cranks are pretty thin on the ground these days. Whereas 25 bottom ends are getting cheaper cause people keep using the heads for RB30s hybrids.