Rancher

Hi! Im going to be wanting to race on circuts with my car, though I'm a little confused as to what I need for my car to be eligable to race. What do I need to be eligable to race, clubs and what not in QLD and where I go. how much it cost's to get a licence. Ive read their web page, it doesnt help me very much. Thanks.

Because NA engine arn't designed to run boost, hance the higher compression on NA engine. Put some positive boost into the old girl, and you'll end up splashing all your oil and a piston or two on the road. If you were to run positive boost on an NA engine, it would be wise not to go above 5psi, though running that little boost would decimate most turbo's cause of the already high compression from the NA engine. If your interested in running boost, if would be best to purchase a decompresion head gasket (possibly copper, but not always) to run anything over 5psi. On that note, running 5psi on an NA engine, and driving her hard all day, you'd end up pushing out a few pistons onto the road again. so you have to be careful. Some engine are different to others though, so if you dont try you'll never know! Aswell as, if you were to turbo your car (In QLD anyway) you have to upgrade the brakes to the right size, for eq; Id turbo my Silva (Rb20DE) Id have to upgrade to the R32 5 stud brakes to comply with ADR rules, and be able to get it mod plated for the turbo. On top of that, The gearbox would need to be replaced, and the dif. After driving it around for a while, you'd end up blowing them both. Its cheaper to just buy a factory turbo, and not bother turbo'ing an NA car. On top of the turbo, you have; Dump pipe, intercooler piping exhaust, brakes, steering alignment, wheel alignment, wheels, gearbox, tailshaft (If need be) diff, Hicas, ECU, wiring loom, plugs, injectors, fuel pump, probably a fuel regulator, compliance and, Mod plates. Its really not worth it in my opinion!

Ok, I rang Nissan. and they wanted 116.25 >.< Ive got 14 bolts on either side of the head, there are three left in the middle, and they appear to be a little larger then 10MM. Do these bolts need to come out in order to get the head off? Or are they just for something else inside the head. Its really stiff to get the head off, so I'm not sure if I need them out. Any help would be great as soon as possible as I'm trying to get the head off today!

I'll keep that in mind, and I'll give them a cal l tomorrow. I'll let you know. Thanks!

Its me again. I think Ive blown a headgasket on my Silvertop RB20DE. I was wonder, When I did my water pump, it was identical to the RB30E water pump. My question is, is the RB30 head gasket the same as the RB20 head gasket? There is a $130 dfference, and I'm quite poor. Is it hard to get the head off? Should I watch for anything? Thanks

Hello again all! In about 3 weeks I'm going to lose my licence for 6 months (I was on a good behaviour licence, and the defected my exhast and I lost the one point ) Anyway, So I have 6 months to slowly do something to my car. Can I have suggestions as to what to do to the engine, like Id like to fully rebuild it slowly and as money prohibits, so what sorta things should I be doing whilst its apart so squize a few more ponnies out of her. Exhaust is already done (Which I bottomed out, and flattened my nice shiney tip), timing is great, Injectors are WAY too much!. Ideas on what other peopel have done, cost's, where to buy stuff like that would be great! Thanks

Bottom'd out this after noon putting a nice flat part on the bottom of my Shiney Cannon. I cant make it round again and it looks like shit. Is there somewhere I can go, and do something to make it round? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Still havnt fixed the problem. Unable to get an ECU or another tacho to try. Would love to hear if anyone else has had a similer problem and how they fixed it. Or if its just a simple as replacing the ECU (Which I cant afford, fuel is bad enough getting to work).

Well, on the CAS there are 4 wires, Green with black follow, Green with yellow follow, Black with yellow follow, and Black The one the gives the Signal (only worked with my dash tacho, and went way to high to be used) is the Green with black follow. I stll havnt gotten it to work, though. Your idea's have really helped, I actualy went to Jcar to find the Digital tacho, but it was about $50 more then I could afford, and in doubt that it would work stopped me from using other funds.

I didnt know that there was a high and low voltage signal actually, So I'm looking into that. But my tacho doesnt have the high/low switch, just 4/6/8. When its on 6cyl mode from the CAS it goes up to about 2500RPM and wont go any higher, even if I'm revving the tits off it >.< If anyone in the brisbane has an RB20DE ECU they wouldnt mind me using to test the tacho, it would be grealy appreciated.

Hello all I drive an RB20DE powered Silvia, the guy the owned the car before me did the conversion from the CA18DE. The tacho doesnt work, I know its a 4cyl tacho, and it's a 6cyl enginge, but there is no Signal. No signal from the ecu either. Ive bought a tacho (Sparco 4 1/2") set it to 6cyl, and no Singal from either the ecu and the CAS. I know I am plugging it into the tacho signal wire from the ecu, I'm not silly. Can someone please help, Its rather annoying not having a tacho, and I cant figure this out. If you can fix it, I'll be forever in your debt. I'm sorry for posting something like this on my first post, But I'll post more, I havnt had the car for long ^^;