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Everything posted by Rancher
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In Queensland the standard DB for exhaust's is 90DB at 60% of your redline. So if you redline is 6000RPM, they will rev it to 3600RPM to get your DB. To pass you pretty much have to put your standard exhaust back on. As for the Pod in the box. It is illegal unless the box fully seals when the bonet is closed. If it doesn't then defect. And everything is illegal. I dont think the intercooler is though. It will be if your bumper is off. But otherwise I'm sure its legal. Get rid of your BOV. Put your standard injecters back in put your standard MAF back in and wind down the boost to like 7PSI and you shouldn't have a problem. Make sure you cat is good and still has the honeycombe stuff in it. and a couple of mufflers. 1995 EPA test's wern't that bad so if you do all of that, You shouldn't have a problem passing the EPA and defect.
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To save me from starting a new thread about it, here goes! I have thought that maybe the R33 GTST Fuel pump is delivering too much fuel and the fuel pressure regulator is shot? It gurgles, pops and even loud bangs! So I thought maybe, the fuel pressure regulator needs replacing so I was looking around. Searching included before you ask. Where do the adjustable ones fit? Do they replace the stock one? or do they go after the fuel filter? Before you ask. or even think. When I disconect the vacuum hose that goes into the regulator it doesn't make a lickin' difference at all. There are a few adjustable ones on ebay for $55. Are they worth it? Would I have too much trouble with it? And what is the standard fuel pressure for the RB20DE? I'm really getting frustraded with it... after so much money getting it running again.
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Still having really bad timing issues. ECU says 55 (Everything ok!) but its still running like a big bag of dodo. Its very disapointing. It just seems to struggle to get up to 6,500RPM. Anyone wanna take a few photo's of their CAS so I can match it? lol
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When I knew it was running rich it was running amazing for the first 5min. Like flying. After that the under bonet temp jumped up to about 80* on the highway... Missing. Exhaust temp light came on. knocking. and then it died. I also blew out my nice new (like 40,000KM) Hi-Flow cat. Now that its running all good, the honey comb stuff is ratteling around in my exhaust... White smoke is water, ie; Blown head gasket and its pumping coolant into one of the cylinders. OR, condensation in the exhaust after a cold night. Black is fuel Blue is oil. When it runs lean (like dying fuel pump lean) no smoke is being blown out. And it usually gets very hot, VERY fast.
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Ive gone through search a few times (looking at other things) and seen this subject a million times. 1. I can be both. Slowly it can lean out your engine. Or you could be reving out 8,000RPM and it will die, leaning out your engine badly. 2. Some have said that it gets really loud. Others have said fuel pressure drops. Personaly when mine did it. I was running leaner then a Anorexic chick at christmas dinner. 3. I dont know that. Look around on the internet. Its there. 4. That migh almost be too big. Get a Bosch 044 pump or similer. Should be fine for your application.
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I have fixed the bastard! The knock sensor plug (Which plugs into the igniter loom) was damn unplugged. So it is running like a dream again! Thank you EVERYONE who helped. Without you all I would have brought a $450 item to discover that it doesnt work. Changed the O2 sensor without anything and probably a million other things. Thanks again.
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I wouldn't have found that cause I was only looking in the NA forums lol. You have no idea what I have been reading trying to figure out this problem. According to my recently reset ECU (After adjusting the timing) my O2 sensor is reading just fine. So my O2 sensor is fine, My coolant temp sensor is fine. my AFM should be fine. I would rather not take it to an auto electrician. I would rather just fix it myself. Thank you everyone for you help. Though only one question remains. If I were to shove a Apexi S-AFC NEO into my car. Would I benifit from it (saying my car is running good now) I would be extremly happy if I got 10KW out of it.
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I think I said in the other post, that it smells like fuel when ideling and driving. it seems to flaten out about 4500RPM and feels pretty bad. And blowing out a bit of black smoke. The dude before me put the Z32 AFM on. I have just taken it off and put a standard one I brought onto it. I figured I probably distroyed the O2 sensor when I over heated it when it was running lean. I'm pretty sure the knock sensor is in. Are they a comon item to just suddenly stop working as well? I just figured, that with the mods done it was just plain running rich. I thought that the S-AFC would aid me in this but obviously not. Where can I get one of these wideband sensors? And again.. Where is the knock sensor located as there are a few on the block and they are all pluged in.
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Done an ECU reset with no help. No while cruising it stays in rich. Unless I get off the throttle where it will go into Stoich. Ive been reading and could it be my O2 sensor is shagged? On ebay they have a uni fit one. Will that fit my car? What are the standard volts supposed to be on it? Advancing or retarding the timing isnt helping anything either. Neither is unplugging the coolant temp switch or unplugging the fuel pressure regulator. So it is definitly running rich. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130060574760&ssPageName=MERC_VI_RUPX_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=130074609076&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=active_view_item&usedrule1=UpSell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget
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Ive got the RB20DE AFM back in now (what a pain in the ass with the plug) and there is still no difference. The ECU is still giving me a knock error and reading rich. the A/F guage also says rich. I know its supposed to be rich under heavy acceleration. But it stays in rich even when in 5th cruising. I figured that a SAFC would help me (and give me some nice options with my mods and HP) but am I wrong?
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Even at slight throttle it's pinged on the stop in rich. not at load or anything. While driving it stays in rich unless I'm completly off the throttle. I know this is a thread about the S-AFC II, but I'm acutally getting responses lol. The Z32 AFM isn't causing the problem, and I just double checked the Coolant temp sensor, it reads normal hot and cold. I still get the knock sensor error after reseting the ECU!
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Where is the knock sensor located on the RB20's? and how do I tell if its an error from something, or the sensor is stuffed? and whats the difference between the black, blue and neo SAFC's? I'm still interested after reading some of the things it can do.
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Its a 91 S13 Silvia. Cam gears, 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust and hi-flow cat, RB25DET fuel pump, advanced timing. a few wieght mods (seat belts, sound deadening, no air con gear, no wing) HKS pod, Z32 AFM, VLT water pump and R32 turbo radiator. All running on optimax. Its not white I meant, Typed it wrong. It is black. There is nothing wrong with the AFM, O2 sensor or coolant temp sensor. Though the ECU is giving me a knock sensor error (error:34).
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Holy jeebus, in the whole time Ive been here.. You'd have to be the rudest person who's replied... Yes, I have done a search and Ive read everything in the NA forums about it. Doesnt explain much just says good HP gains and Fuel ecconomy. Forgies are useless, Not even going to go there. And yes. I am running rich. I have an A/F guage and it stays in rich all the time. except idle when its stoich. It smells like fuel and I can see white smoke coming out of my exhuast.. Need any more info?..... And for your infomation Mr. Rude. It was a friend of mine with the R32 running 12PSI and reving out to red line. I actually have some work done to my car. so before you generalise perhaps consider that work has been done before I make bold statements. Please keep you Distastefull statements to yourself. I wanted info not to be bagged out.
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Hello, its me again! (I know you're all sick of my questions) I am having serious over fueling issues (I just got a hold of Air/Fuel guage, and it's constantly in rich) So after much thinking I've decided to get myself a S-AFC II. Bit of an over kill for an NA engine but if it fixes my problems I dont care. My question is; How does it actually work? Ive read the Apexi web site and it tells me you can adjust air, fuel and injectors. But; where does it plug in? Can I use it on an NA engine? What do I need to know about this thing? How to tune? If I shove it into my car, and tune it, will I notice an increase in power and delivery? Is it hard to tune myself? (I dont want to spend money for someone else to touch my baby) Whats the difference between the Black SAFC, the Blue SAFC and the SAFC NEO? And which is better. Don't give me lip on how useless it will be in an NA car. I dont think so. If I can tune my fuel and air and get more HP out.. then money is not wasted. Besides.. I can keep up with RB20DET Skylines (and sometimes beat them) so on you! And, whats the average price of these second hand and new?
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Hello! I'm after an Air/fuel guage. I dont care what brand it is or how old it is. I just need one. I would prefer it as cheap as $50 and if you're in brisbane I can pick it up. PM me if you have something. I would love the smoke series but I dont care lol. Thanks!
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Hi again! After skimming the Turbo performance part of the page I came across a Compression problem someone was having. Not too long ago I checked mine (After I over heated the bastard) and the compression was about 120 130 in all 6 cylinders. Normal. But when I was reading the that page his was also 120 130 in all 6 cylinders (Forgies, bigger turo and a 2ml head gasket). This got me thinking "Wtf?" My question is; What is the standard compression in an RB20DE? or have I somehow (When I rebuilt the top end and new head gasket) jumped down to turbo compression? Its a standard Nissan Head gasket (From Nissan). If I have, would this cause problems with my car? I didn't think it would but its really got me thinking.
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I'm after the following items, as I intend to turbo my RB20DE (untill it pops, when I will do a transplant) Turbo (R33 S1, S2, R32) Manifold (R33 or R32) Coolant lines, and Oil lines. Intercooler and piping (Would prefer R32 standard side mount) Dump pipe and front pipe (That pipe that goes from the dump pipe to the cat) If its an R33 Turbo (S2?) I need the elbow for the turbo. I think new Injectors? but I would rather not. And whatever other parts I would needed in order to stick this on to my RB20 and to boost away. PM me if you have something. please include a price and I will get back to you.
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I no longer need these items. Thanks!
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No, Ive pulled off the timing and checked twice. its still perfect. It was running fine untill I started getting low on fuel afer the rebuild then everything went to shit. The fuel pressure regulator is fine, though I dont notice a difference when I unplug the hose. I dont know when they were lol. Im going to do that soon. This is what struck a nerve... 15 degrees before or after TDC? I actually didnt know this. There are three marks (On both Exh and Int cams and on the crank pully) and all three marks on the belt line up with those. But after the rebuild it was revving up to 6G easy without a problem. It seemed when I got low on fuel (maybe shit in the tank?) that all hell broke lose. I think my fuel pump has sucked up some shit (There is a little hole in my in-tank filter) that maybe it leaned out? it idles fine but as soon as I touch the throttle it misses really bad. The longer it sits, the more cylinders that miss. I think I just answered my own question... lol.
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Item: RB20DET head, No intake cam. Still has the barings and the exhaust cam. Cam gears and Intake manifold -throttle body. Head bolt shims still in there too! Location: Stanthorpe (About 3hrs from brissy) Item Condition: Pretty good actually, no marks doesnt look worped or looks like its been over heated. Reason for Selling: I bought it cause it was the only way I could get the parts I need. I no longer need it and would prefer it sold to pay for the other parts Ive now broken Price and Payment Conditions: looking for $100 flat. Open to offers but wont take less then that Pictures: Cause I'm so far out, I can send pics on reqest. Contact Details: PM me.
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I'm after an RB20DE/T Crank angle sensor sort of cheap as mine has shat itself. And a sort of cheap Fuel pump (in tank type) as I think mine has also shat it self. Price: I would like them to both be as cheap as possible Contact: PM me location: Somewhere between Stanthorpe and brisbane. If it could be sent I would prefer it to be sent as its easier. I will pay postage and stuff (COD) Edit: Any kind of fuel pump (not itty bitty ones) just so long as its cheapish and works.
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Eoi: Wrecking R32 Gts-t 4door Manual
Rancher replied to Ray31's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
How much for the RB20DET? or the CAS I need one of them (mostly the CAS) I'll give you $70 for the CAS