Rancher

Why? As far as I'm concerned, RB26 big ends and stuff will not fit. But, you can buy BRAND SPANKING NEW barings from NISSAN for not that much, that are the best to use for that motor. So....

Item: I'm looking for, RB20DET CA18DET SR20DET Must be turbo. With or without G-box it doesnt matter. Must have ECU and wiring loom aswell. Must be running, or used to be running (blown head gasket). Must have turbo on it. I DO NOT want blown engines that require me to strip it down. I would love an RB20 more, cause they sound better. but it doesnt matter. Turbo must be spinning and have little to no shaft play. No dump pipe, down pipe or Intercooler has to come with it. Location: Anywhere (to an extent) between Stanthorpe and Brisbane. So Ipswich and Toowoomba ok. Price and Payment Conditions: No more then $600. I did have an RB20DET with ECU and wiring loom lined up, but the guy has backed out (not replying) and the head was off. Still had the turbo. no G-box. So I think that 600 for a motor without a G-Box is fair. Extra Info: I will be down in Brisbane this weekend, so I would have the cash and that motor you have sitting around will be gone forever! Pictures: If you have something, let me know and post some pics. Email me. Rancher_45@hotmail.com Contact Details: PM me, or ring me on 0434 265 614. If you have something. NO MORE then $600 then ring me. Do not ring if its a FUBAR'd motor. Thanks! Brendan.

You'd be able to drive it... just barely. Even if it starts. You'll flood it. It will run really rich too and would foul your plugs in about 20min after the car is warmed up. Standard RB20DET from memory like Manhore has said, is about 270CC. GTR ones are somewhere about 440CC. Again like Manhore has said. SO thats a huge step up without a tune. Its really simple to change it all, two 10mil bolts hold the fuel rail on, and just have the resistor pack ready and do it in the car park. push it into the Dyno and simple. You're risking damage by running that rich, I wouldn't recomend it.

Bump. All still for sale.

That's a standard Skyline problem. The ECU will enrich the mixture toward the top of the rev range to prevent damage. Have a look at the back of any turbo car when they "Give it a bit" they will all blow a little black smoke.

Red top and silver top coils are totaly different. Just to give you an example, Red top coils fit onto the CA18DET and vise versa. Silvertop coils only fit the Silvertop. Try getting the right coils, if thats not the problem, then change the igniter (the square thing ontop of the cover) And take that cover off! it traps heat under it and melts coils. A dodgy CAS wont make one coil not fire, if its the CAS it wont start at all.

Is the crank timing right? are the injector plugs in right? When you turn your ignition on, can you hear your fuel pump prime? The line from the manifold goes to a plug on top of the FPR, like, right under neath the manifold. Can miss it. Have you got the fuel lines on the right way? The line into the fuel rail should be at the bottom, and the return line should come off the FPR. Try those things, its something really simple. Like no fuse for the fuel pump or something.

I have a few items for sale, they are just laying around and I'd rather get rid of them and get some cash. Items as followed. Items: RB20DET Exh cam shaft $50. Standard RB20DET Int and Exh cam gears $20 for both. RB20DET Intake Manifold without throttle body $60. RB20DET head without cam's or cam barings $50. Still has the lifters and buckets in there. RB20DE Fuel Pressure Regulator $20. I replaced mine thinking this one was stuffed, but made no difference so this one works just fine. RB20DET AAC Valve x2 $30 each. Both work just fine, one came of an engine thats done 90,000. The other off an engine done 115,000. The older one is missing the o-ring and screws but if your replacing yours with this, then just take it off yours. Speco Volt meter $15. Worked just fine when I pulled it out. Light and bracket still with it. Sound Supressor. $15. Stops altenator noises. Worked when I pulled it off. Location: Stanthorpe. Pick up or post on a couple of the items. You might get lucky and I'll be coming to brisbane in a few weeks and I'll take it to you for an extra $10. Post at buyers expesnse. Item Condition: All of them are fine. Perfect order. Reason for Selling: I dont need em, and need some cash. Price and Payment Conditions: Cash. Pictures: Contact Details: PM me.

God! If I had the money I would buy this! though, if it isnt road worthy or in road worthy condition I would offer you 10 flat.

Most service parts (Ie: Gasket's, barings blah blah) can be bought from Nissan itself. I should know I just did my head gasket and every other gasket genuin nissan. It was a TON cheaper then Autobarn and stuff. As for looking after them. The turbo models need to be well maintained. Changing oil every 7000k's. Spark plugs every 30000k's or so. They need to be well looked after, far more then normal VN's and stuff. Anyone can buy a Skyline. But can you afford to maintain it, run it, and insure it?

Both of them line up perfectly, The only thing that needs to be changed on the 26 head, is the headstuds. The 26 ones are too long. A 26 head would be the better option in my opinion. about the same to flow and stuff on the 25 head would cover the cost of a 26 head. As someone said before in this post, The 25 heads valve springs are soft and will valve float at higher RPM. I think Ive read before somewhere if your leaving it NA, leave the standard RB30 ones in there. better compression. Dont quote me. Read the RB30DET thread.

Dont mean to sound rude or anything. But Ive seen questions lik this a dozen times. Its even posted in the RB30DET sticky up the top. There is a user here that builds them aswell. Do a search, its not hard. Even in that thread with 250+ pages, there is a box down the bottom to search words in the whole thread. Give it ago.

Perhaps an oil leekage from the turbo oil line, and its just spraying onto the wiring loom and running into the car?

How is it when its cold? might be that your coil packs are breaking down from the heat. Check the resistance (there is a thread around somewhere that says how to) and go from there.

Not offering help, just going to mention.. Even if that cat *looks* like its there, you can smell that there isnt. The cops or defect stantions or road side people have machines that can test that your cat isnt working (like same as bashing out the honeycomb stuff) and you *will* be slapped with a $10,000 fine. Not kidding.

Another female in a car that has a shitty center of gravity, and could roll at the blink of an eye (Think simpsons.. Canyonero~!). Why dont you consider like, a wagon or something? More space, safer to drive, Easier to see over and around... Wont roll when you try to take evasive action at 100KM/H. And if your not really gonna take it off road.. then whats the point in owning a death trap? I mean low torque useless 4WD? Just throwing it out there, I didn't mean to offend.

There's stuff you can buy from Autobarn, called Heatwrap. Dont know how much it is, but it doesnt burn. Just wrap it around the part that is bothering you and it should solve the problem.

Depends, Mine idiles about 900 when its hot for some reason. When its cold its up about 1100. Normal is, well there should be a sticker that says what it should be idiling at. But about 600-750 is about normal. I wouldn't worry too much if its idiling at 900 though, mine does it all the time and it really doesnt bother me.. Its funny to take off without having to use the throttle.. Show off your leet clutch skillz... @.@

Check this link out for your AAC Valve, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110431

The torque settings are not in the RB30DET thread. But I'm pretty sure the torque settings are the same as the RB25DE/T stuff. Would make sense if you think about it; RB25DE head, RB25DE/T headgasket, RB25 torque settings.

Its a Skyline/RB problem. Its the AAC valve (On the side closest to the firewall) Pull it off carefully and more then likely it will be full of oil and gunk. Clean it all out, if it still doing it the valve might need replacing. If its not all of that, then I have no idea. But more then likely it will be the AAC valve.

No there wont be for the RB25DE, but the DE and DET are the same except for one thing I can remember. Look around on NS.com, SAU.com, and Boostcrusing.com. Someone will be selling a PFC for the RB25DET R32. If you get an after market plenum, yes, you will still need to fabricate mounts. But you will have bonet clerance. You wont need to sit the motor lower, or use a different sub frame. But the RB30 (Same as the RB25 mounts) wont line up with your CA18 or SR20 mounts. The CA18 mounts are the same as the RB20 ones. I'm not to sure about the SR20 ones though. Might be a little harder if you have an SR20 fitted. But if you have the CA18 mounts, just rip em out and get a set of RB25 mounts. Only a tad bit of modifiying is needed cause one of the holes dont line up properly (Just drill it) If you cant find an R32 RB25 PFC, why dont you use the RB26 head? Stronger valve springs so you dont have to replace them (The RB25 valve floats at high revs, big boost) You can use the RB26 PFC without having to modify anything. And it already comes with the really nice GTR forward facing plenum and if your lucky, The GTR injecters (forgot how big) so you dont even need to upgrade those! Probably worth it in the long run (Probably about the same price as an RB25 head with heavier valve springs, new plenum, and new injectors) to just get an RB26 head. Just my opinion though.

Hi there! I'm looking at doing this exact thing to my S13 (Currently fitted with a dieing RB20DE) so post some pictures and what you did so I can do the same! Anyway~ As for the Plenum. There are a few that fit (Make sure you get the right one, the R32 and R33 S2 heads are a little different) But the DE and DET are the same, just a case of looking around to find on. The RB30DET is not a direct fit the the S13 subframe, so you will either have to fabricate yourself, or you can buy them from some website.. I dont remember the address. The tail shaft will also have to be modified (Unless you use and RB20DET gearbox) The RB25 gearbox is slightly longer, and has a different yoke. Don't forget to upgrade the brakes!! R32 GTST (5 stud) bolt straight on the front, the calipers require a tad bit of fideling. Thole rear craddle can be taken out, and replaced with an R32 GTST one. Keep me updated, I would really like to know how this goes. Rancher_45@hotmail.com For the PFC, You get the corresponding one. So if you have an R32 RB25 head, you will use the R32 RB25 wiring loom and PFC. If you have an R33 RB25, you will use the R33 RB25 wiring loom and PFC, etc.

Just throwing it out there, but it almost makes sense.. Flick your highbeams on, and then get a friend to have his car face yours and turn his head light on. Perhaps this switch will turn the highbeams back down to normal when another car is coming the other way, and turn them back to high beam when there is no glare?

Hi all! As the title suggest's. I need the Stock FPR as I think mine has gone AWALL. I would like it to be cheap and I will pay like super express post as I want it yesterday lol. Let me know what you have and how much you want for it. It !-MUST-! be the NON-TURBO FPR. Thank you! *Part aquired, thank you for looking. $15 I paid for anyone who searches.*