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Hey. It seems about right. How do I fix it ?

Lunatikk, where did u get your nick name from ? It means sleep-walker in russian.

You mean the driveshaft, right ? Driveshaft center bearing ? I got alloy spacers in my rear subframe. So its basically solid. Can't be it.

Hey! I've been having this weird issue, thats on my nerves for quite some time. When I coast on light throttle and suddenly apply more throttle. Like WOT, I get this clunk/kick in the drivetrain. Or if I coast on light throttle and release the throttle pedal quickly. I also get this clunk/kick. First I can feel it. Its like some kind of play. Probably the rear subframe/differential, cause I can sense it coming from there. Also the sound is from the rear. If I raise the rear of the car. And try to move rear wheels by hand. I can feel there is small play until the diff(Nismo 1way) engages and spins another wheel. Something like ~1cm play. I can rotate a wheel ~1cm forward and backward without engaging anything. Anyone had similar problem ? What should I look for. Sydneykid advised to look into final gear/pinion gear alignment. Before I had a s14 3.7 final gear viscous lsd I didn't have this issue. Car is A31. Thanks in advance!

I've heard subaru ones fit. But not sure.

Haha! I got the N-4 harness. Nice little piece of plastic )) Swapped Ne and G, then Disconnected A and Ar1 hooked them up with other 2 free connectors. Now I got no Water temp. Will be a bitch to find out which one is water temp now. Btw, from factory N-4 harness comes wired with 2 knock sensors or air inlet temp and water temp ? Thanks !

You can download the software in english. Try www.mohdparts.com

ohhh. thanks for the input, guys ! Can close the topic now.

1) I got profec b spec 2. And I started to notice this clicking sounds. First I thought that its detonation lol. But they were to electrical. Like inj. or relay working. Everytime I open the throttle 30-50% and getting in the boost zone, I got this clicking sound. I don't get it with WOT. Is it normal ? Do you guys have the same thing with Profec b spec 2 ?3 2) Another thing. Anyone got a step by step manual for setting up boost with profec b ? I searched the internet and its a bit confusing. Some use start boost. Some don't use it. Maybe someone could share his setup ? Like set - %, gain - %, start boost -, warning, limiter ? I wan't the car to have more punch/mid range. But seem to lack it, when I start playing with the controller.

I run both wires to the engine. Got no fuses. Just connect to existing earth and +. Sometimes engine is harder to start. Really annoying. If I hook up another earth in the boot it just starts in no time. So whats the deal with all this ? Anyone good info with pics or something ? Like u need 12 meter of thick cables, fusebox, need to make another earth in the boot. By the way, if I connect - of the battery to something metal in the boot via battery charging cables. I got good voltage at idle, and engine starts normally. But I sometimes get hit with electricity when exiting the car. Touching the drivers door. I run my wires through interior. Under carpets.

What about the wiring ? How would you run the battery wires after relocation ? Run 2 wires to the engine bay ? + and - and connect them to factory earth. Or just run + to the engine bay and make new earth somewhere inside the boot ? Need some suggestions please. Or some good info on relocating the battery. Mainly the wiring. Thanks!

Trent, how would you diagnose knock with EMU? As long as its above 1% its all knock ? I forgot what knock is there in. % or not. How far would you usually go with tuning ? Under 30, under 10 or fight knock until its below 0 threshold ? Thanks!

always 12v. I reckon. My car doesn't have one. And drives fine. And I still can get 10-11l/100km if I try hard )))

This thing is a relay for the fuel pump if I'm not mistaken. It sends something like 9v to the fuel pump on idle, to minimize fuel consumption. U can tear it out. Nobody needs that.

If u did wire them like Haines said. You could say bye bye to your igniter or coilpacks if you don't have an igniter (( I did that mistake. Tough price to pay.

How did u remap it for the rb20 ?

Really nice ))

Pics would be awesome!

Awesome ! I will try it out when my N-4 harness arrives ! Thanks!

So I should set the jumper 8 to 2-3 and it will help you reckon ? ))) Haha. I feel kinda happy again )) Thanks!

I want to clear some things once and for all. Some guys running EMU on sr20det experience some rich idle a/frs, fuel cuts. Some guy on emanage forums, said that moving the jumper 8 from 1-2(default greddy) to 2-3 cured his problem. Its the jumper for the ignition output signal. Greddy Default is 5v(jumper set to 1-2) and jumper set to 2-3 makes it 12v. So can someone pls confirm: what configuration should rb20/rb25/rb25neo/rb26 guys run ? Reading the EMU faq I thought rb2neo guys benefit from going to 12v ignition output signal. Thanks in advance!

I got 495kms from 59litres of fuel in rb20det A31 the other day. Sedate driving. Rarely going past -0.2 bar vacuum on the boost gauge. So try to control your right foot and you can get even better economy.

Who knows LOL. Check a few pages back for my datalogs and maps haha. Its not me LOL

Hey, Trent. My EMU is on RB20. And it didn't alert me of any errors when I first wired it. And car was not missing. Also I'm in China now, so I ordered plug in harness from Hong Kong. Will try to sell the universal one when the plug in one arrives. I haven't even touched the maps. So I'm really confused why was I getting this shit from EMU ?

Ok. Some more progress from me. Not the best I suppose. My engine started to miss. Cyl 3 was not firing. Checked the igniter, if the coils got power, if the inj. got power. Everything seemed normal. Though consult was giving 21 error code, which is ignition circuit something. And emanage also was alerting something about cyl 2.4 ignition. But the thing is, when I take out the coil with plug and crank it I get a spark. Thought it was fuel. Checked the voltages to inj. 3 and it was ok, and after I checked the inj. voltages it fired up. I was like, ok. Went for a drive and it started to miss again. I could cure it by turning off the engine and turning it on again for sometime, but then it didn't help also. I've then decided to bypass the ignition from the EMU. Disconnected every ignition wire from the EMU, reconnected it with the factory harness. I use universal harness for the EMU, not the N-4 adapter. Started the car and still misfiring. It was late and in the middle of the road, so I decided to go home. Next day, I ripped the EMU out and the engine started perfectly with no signs of missing cyl3 or any other. I took the car for a drive. I wanted to find out if I also had this rev-cut in 4-5 gear around 140-160km/h. Nothing ! Only the factory rev-limiter after 180km/h. What I also found out,that I get better mileage with factory ecu, than with EMU connected. I was struggling to get 250-260kms out of 55-60 liters of fuel with EMU connected. I thought it was my right foot. I was mistaken. Now with factory ecu, I got 380kms without any effort. I ordered an N-4 harness. I still hope it was the wiring or my mistake or something and N-4 would magically cure it. Appreciate all the ideas and feedback! P.S. Could it be a faulty EMU ? I'm confused.