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Pics of the wiring job/relays etc. Damn, this diagram is tough ))) Got to check if my setup looks similar to the diagram lol

Can anyone post some pics or a diagram of their fuel pump feed/ground rewired ? Thanks!

C'mon guys ? Nobody knows what the stock turbo inlet diameter is ?

Anyone ? I can make a steel pipe, but need to get the silicone joiners right. Anyway. Anyone knows what is rb20/rb25 turbo inlet outer diameter ?

Anyone ?

Hi! I think 2.5inch is a bit to big. Which should I get ? 2" or 2.25"? Anyone made a turbo>afm pipe ? What size silicone hose did u use on the turbo side ? Thanks!

I wasn't talking about cornering. I'm talking about straight line stuff. 2ways don't chutter on straight line. Also. When in 4th/5th gear. If I start to play with the throttle. around 2/3k rpm. Like on/off operation. I can make my car to jerk so violently. Its crazy. Need more input here, guys ! Thanks!

It could. But needs modifications to coolant galleries. As rb25 and rb20 are different in that matter. Also the inlet ports are different. It has been done before though. So you can try it. Not a cheap bolt on job like for rb25 though.

Hey how is your conversion going. U said you will log all the process and take some pics. I got into a problem with my wiring. Let me know if you have something. THanks!

Hi! Does anyone have any wiring diagram that clearly show how r32 rb20 or rb25 ecu igniter is powered ? Or maybe someone knows how is it powered from factory ? 1) I had an engine conversion, and I think I've powered my ign./fuel pump relays incorrectly. When I cank the car, fron ON position to START position I don't get any solid power to ecu until the engine starts. Hmmm, hard to explain. Lets say I connected nissan datascan or emu software and crank the engine, I have to connect to car ecu again, to resume all the data view/error check. Or when I turn off the engine. I go from ON to ACC position, power is cut to ecu and I have to turn the key to ON position, to restore power. 2) As for the fuel pump relay. When I turn the key from ON to START position I can hear the fuel pump prime. It primes as long as I hold it there. Sometimes after I crank the engine and don't start it. And go to ON again. Fuel pump starts to prime and shuts off in a couple of secs. The car is ex-carb A31 rb24s. Basically I had an rb20det engine and wired it in existing vehicle wiring.(splicing the wires etc). If anyone has some info or some advice, would really appreciate it ! Thanks!

Hey! My engine is not performing as it used to recently. Lumpy idle, fuel smell(running rich), acceleration is dull. My greddy profec b spec 2 reads -45/-50 kpa at Idle. I don't think its right. Should be more vacuum there, right? Also, when I rev it with no load(car parked). I can see it gets to 0.2+ kpa with no load ! I thought normally, it shouldn't produce any positive pressure with no load. I got front facing plenum, all steel intercooller piping, turbo>afm pipe is also steel. Stock air box, factory panel filter, no bov. Just removed it. It was all good to drive before, but now it seams like its got some air leaks. Also I had no load positive pressure ever since I've done front facing plenum, and got rid of factory bov. Any ideas where too look for ?

Come back here with the solution please. I can't seem to find an answer to this problem too. Maybe faulty TPS sensor ? Or not calibrated correctly ?

I was bored, and was going through youtube. Found that: At first I was like: wtf? Where is ceffy ?

R33 ball joint, second that. Or s14/S15. A bit harder to come buy though. S14/R33 lcas are very similar.

Here are the pics. From left to right, top to bottom. First is the harness when it arrived. And then goes the pics where I changed a few wires and changed the #4 and #6 inj. wiring. As you can see right now I got Input.Inj#4 swapped. I used my universal harness wires to do that. And Inj. Out is still the same as greddy N-4harness. My zipped EM2 files attached. EM2.zip

What RPM signal type should I use ? RPM signal ? Or Ignition signal ?

What I did: Got N-4 harness for RB26. I swapped knock2 and Air temp to read water and knock. I also switched the inj. in/out #4 and #6. So it would work properly on RB20. I left Ne/G as greddy. This way I got EMU to read timing properly, not 111.deg. What I got: Poorly running engine. Consult comes up with 43 and 21 error. TPS circuit and Ignition circuit. EMU has troubles to calibrate the throttle position correctly. TPS error goes away after I start the engine. Ignition circuit error is always there. Poor idle/lumpy. Still got missfires at 150-160km/h.Like before. Need some help. Where to look for the problem ? My posts in emanageforums: http://www.emanageforums.com/forums/showth...1100&page=8 ================================================ Ok, I've swapped the Inj In#4 and #6 . And totally forgot to swap the 4# and 6# on the out side. Damn. I reset the EMU, but still get errors in my factory ecu. Still TPS error and still ignition circuit error. I've tried to recalibrate the TPS so it reads the same Volts on factory ecu and EMU. Factory ecu closed throttle was 0.46 and EMU read 0.44. Don't know why. I just entered the TPS values manually. Factory ECU still came up with that problem. Don't know why. Will switch the inj. out #4 and #6 tomorrow and finally see how it goes. U guys don't want to know (((( I first swapped them near connector. But I only did the injector in#4 and #6. And totally forgot about the inj. out. Anyway, car behaved same. I still got TPS errors in Nissan consult and Ignition circuit errors. I also couldn't make EMU get to adjust the TPS normally. It would always change itself a bit and be a bit different to factory ecu. Like factory ecu min - 0.46v and EMU reads 0.44. Factory ecu reads 100% wot at 3.96 and EMU at 3.94. Something like that. Sometimes its only the 0% setting, sometimes the 100%. Car started to behave strangely. It didn't drive as good as with factory ECU. Idle became a bit erratic. Then today I finally got time to swap the inj. out wires. And the car didn't want to idle at all. I crank the engine, it started and died in a couple of secs. Hooked up my notebook, and emu software came up with a series of ignition circuit errors, like ign. channel 2.4 or something. But I didn't even touch the ign. wires, cause they are all spot on. Hooked up factory ecu diagnostic software, same TPS and Ignition circuit error. Car didn't idle at all, smelled fuel(running rich probably didn't hook up my wideband). Idle didn't stabilize at all. I was pissed off after that. Just ripped out the EMU plug&play N-4 harness, hooked up my factory ECU straight into the engine harness back and started the engine. Everything got back to normal in a couple of minutes. I hooked up the diagnostic software and it read no errors, no matter how many times I cranked the engine and reset the ECU. I don't know what to do now. Did I get faulty EMU or what ? The worst thing is it should be plug&play and working properly and it doesn't. Got no idea why. My engine harness is not in its virgin state, but its ok for factory ecu. ================================================ Any ideas ?

Don't forget to come back here and tell everyone how you fixed it. There is no use for the forums, without doing it.

Looks like nismo one.

How did u sort it out ? Pls leave some info here. It should be 12v.

Can you post some pics of your Blitz adpater kit ? Would be really usefull.

Set jumper 8 from 1-2 to 2-3. From 5v to 12v.

Stop scaring people away with that pressure, Gary lol. Joking ))) People mostly look into hp rating, not how much they flow at what pressure.

I had lots of loud pops before. Ande everyone of them was my intercooling piping coming off. Custom piping, not very good ))) haha

Ok. Swapping Ne/G was a bad Idea !!! I put them back, like greddy default and got my timing control/datalog back. Before it was 111deg. everywhere. I did a few power runs like that and got massive missfire in 160km/h area. The knock sensor 1/water temp should be left along, like greddy n-4. It will read water temp, not knock. And remove intake air temp and swap it with another purple/yellow wire. And u will get knock 2 working. Now the funny part. RB20DET inj. pin out order is a bit different to rb25/rb26 ! RB26 goes like #5 #6 #4, and rb20det goes like #5 #4 #6. I just figured that out. And now, its 3.30 am and I'm thinking how to swap those wires. Any good ideas ? Other issues I've discovered. Need to adjust the TPS in EMU. Otherwise u won't have good idle and idle afr/s and no map trace. Consult came up with TPS error when I didn't calibrate the TPS in EMU. After calibration this error went away. Before swapping Ne/G back to the greddy default order G/Ne. (Not Ne/G), EMU was attacking me with ign. channel errors. all 6 of them. Now I got no Errors in EMU. But I still got the 21/ign. circuit error in ecu through consult. Haven't got a chance to take a car for a datalog run after that. Can post some datalogs of what was it like before. I'm really having a hard time with making an EMU work )) Why me ? )))) lol. I thought n-4 harness with magically solve all my problems. But it damn didn't do it right away or yet. hehe. Hope for some input here.