h2k

I have about 550-600hp on my RB25DET engine with GT4088R turbine. I tried running a 38mm tial wg but at high rpms the gate got to small and could not limit the boost pressure so it went up to 2.0 bars of pressure after 5500rpms. So I changed to a 50mm wg and now I can limit the boost down to whatever I set the springs to, all the way up to 8000rpms. So if you are after high power, but still retain a reasonable boost for regular fuel octane(1.6bar), you need a big enough wg and for that a 38mm wg will be to small. a 44mm will propably do, but a 50mm gate will be slightly overkill as long as you stay under 700hp.

I have a RB25DET 1.generation with the external ignition amplifier and stock coils. To get it to work with high boost I'm using NGK BCPR7ES plugs gapped to 0.60mm but it doesnt run very smooth with a cold engine or at low revs because of the heat value and low gapping. I also bought a HKS DLI2 with twinspark\CDi but it came with a wiring harness for a rb25det 2.gen engine wich has different coils and the ign amp integrated in the ecu so I could not install it. But I know I need a stronger spark! So what alternatives are there to improve spark on a 1.gen engine? I've heard the splitfire coilpacks are nothing else than stock coils with blue paint. And I think my stock coilpacks are in decent shape. Anybody got any tips on products?

I have almost the exaxt same setup and I also have the same problem! I have q45 maf and tb, garrett gt4088r turbo running 1.5 bar, 800cc inj and running NGK BCPR7ES plugs gapped at 0.6mm to survive the boost. But at low loads in low rpm range it stutters, but if I accelerate or decellerate it runs smooth as a kitten. But cruising in low speeds its terrible! I turned the ignition table pretty high and it got slightly better but it's just a compensation for something else that is wrong. My theory is that the q45 tb is so large and with only 5% opening it lets in to much air because the powerfc still thinks it has a regular 2.5" throttle body and doesnt leave idle mode. Or it doesnt like the q45 tps, I'm trying to get a regular R33 gts25t tps sensor, it looks the same and it has similar voltage values but it does have a different nissan part nr.

kinda expensive to buy a SAFC2 just to act as a signal Y-connector when I've allready have a PowerFC

Anybody know how to hook up a dual AFM setup on a RB25DET ? Right now Im running a single Q45 3,5" AFM but I'm going to max it out with the new turbo so I was thinking about making a Y-pipe for the intake and use dual Q45 AFM's. Im running powerFC, can I just paralell couple the AFM signal wire or will this not work? The GTR with dual afm...does it have 2 signal wires on the ecu?

Do not use the q45 90mm throttle body. It's not made for supercharged applications and the seals around the throttly axle will leak boost pressure. I've bought 3 tb's and tried before I gave up. They all leak after 0.6bars og pressure

The link to OBX Racing homepage: OBX Racing But it's under construction and doesnt contain anything usefull Otherwise it's easily found on webshops and ebay

I found a reasonable RB25DET manifold from OBX Racing with pulse splitting design: It only costs about 300 USD wich is a bit more expensive then XS-Power cheap-o-manifolds but again alot more reasonable then the more expensive HKS and TOMEI stuff. They look alot better then XS-Power stuff on the pictures, have anybody had any experience with this brand OBX Racing and these headers?

I finaly got a hold on Apexi USA via telefone, and they reset my serial number. They said it was a common bug but after a reset my activation worked after 15 minutes! So now I am a happy puppy FC Pro had a very extensive help file, I hope Paul makes good use on it on his excellent powerfc faq homepage thanks alot Paul33!

its the english software, i've tried to activate the software several times a day for a whole week now and still I cannot get trough and its annoying the shit out of me. I paid alot for the package and Im going to the dynos in a couple of days. It's a 12 hour drive to the nearest dyno shop so its important I have everything in order before I go =) I'll try FC Tune beta from the rx7 forum today and see if I get contact with my pfc.

I've recently bought a Apexi FC Commander Pro cable with software package, and I used the serials and download passwords to download the software but it won't let me activate the software. It only comes up with registration fails and "check your internet connection". I know I am on internet and I am not behind a firewill or have any port routing. Im suspecting that the Apexi activation server is down! Does anybody know how to contact Apexi via email? I can't get trough on telephone And does anybody know if you can use Datalogit with the apexi cable and box? or do I have to have the datalogit dongle?

Hehe I think you are mistaking me for somebody else, I live in Norway and I have to pay 25% tax on everything I import from AUS, JP and USA. And I'm a student with crappy economy And I have neither put any vids on youtube =) but thanks for the cred!

aaaaw common! nobody using a HKS amp on their R33 s1? gotta be somebody here who's aiming above 600rwhp?

it's no problem using a Q45 maf, you just have to get some silicone reducers and a new air filter adapter plate and you're up and running. like this:

Today I received my HKS DLI 2 ignition amp, it came with a RB25DET wiring harness that was marked BNR34. But the connectors on my coils did not match the harness, also the harness had a completly other connector from the cars ignition system. I cannot seem to find a correct wiring harness part nr for my 1993 model s1 rb25det, only to the s2 engine. Has anybody here installed this amp in their s1? either with a correct harness or have a connection diagram so I can rewire the DLI harness with my original harness to make the connectors match.

I put mine here: And I put the oil filter where the air filter box was:

So you found a part nr for the outer dust seals? I took the tb apart as much as I could but I could not figure out how to remove the axle and the read seals. So I drippet a couple drops of superglue in the red seals and refitted the tb, and set my boost down to 0.6bar so it doesnt leak so much while I wait for the new tb I've ordered. but when I change tb's and take the one with a leak out I can take som macro pictures of it. Im hoping the new tb come in the mail today or monday.

I have the exact same problem with air leaking trough the throttle shaft gasket, but on a Q45 90mm throttle body. When it starts squealing at 0.6 bar pressure and at 0.9bar pressure the squeal is so high-pitchet I have to hold my ears. Really annoying! So I've ordered a new tb, I havent found a way of replacing those red seals on the shaft

The original GTS25t bov is rumored to leak above 1bar boost, so I bought the HKS ssqv. I have the resirkulation kit but I kinda fell in love with the atm dump sound I just got the engine up and running after a complete rebuild so im taking it to a dyno tuner shop next week. I only now how to set up the basic settings in powerfc to make sure it runs on safe AFR values and not leans out. So then it is settled, I'll let the tuners program powerfc with a laptop and the stalling problem will be solved!

So this is something a dyno tuner can fix when they map the powerfc? what do you mean "get a real bov", it is a genuine HKS SSQV, not a ebay fake. I also bought the resirk kit but have not installed it since because it will be about 1.5meter with 35mm air hose to resirkulate the air back to the inlet after the maf.

I have a HKS SSQV atm dump valve and power fc in my rb25det, I'm having problems with the engine stalling when I rev it then push the clutch and let go of the throttle. It often happens in stoplight crossing etc and is really annoying. Is there any settings in PowerFC I can adjust to make it stable when falling down towards idle? I've tried rising the idle rev up to 1k rpm but it does not help. Is the only fix to resirk the dumped air back after the maf? I've heard you can tighten the ssqv spring?

Why? I installed them today and gave the latency a +0.50ms latency and the engine ran just as fine as before. The set I bought is supposed to be flowmatched.

I bought a set of 6 injectors for my RB25DET from a motorsports shop in USA with the brand "Venom". But when I received the injectors and inspected them closer I found that it was writen JECS on the side of the injectors. Now I have been searching forums, searching google, looking through JECS and Venoms homepage. But I can't seem to find the injector latency. Anybody?

Have anybody else heard of the throttle body leaking with an increadibly high-pitched sound? I have a q45 90mm tb and when I pressure tested my intercooler piping it started whistling at 0.6bar pressure. It seems like it is leaking trough the axle that holds the throttle plate inside and holds the springs and throttle wire lever. At 0.8 bars air pressure the sound was so high I almost damaged my ears =) has anybody opened up the throttle body? is there a way of servicing this or is it on the scrapheap and buy a new one?

To resirculate or not is my big question, I've been thinking alot about how I'm going to build my new intercooler piping after changing from RB25DET original inlet plenum to a JUN style sidemount plenum. I've ordered a HKS SSQV dump valve and a resirculation kit. But should I resirculate or let it out in atmosphere? I've put up a couple of points, correct me if I'm wrong: Atmospheric dump: +Cooler sound. +Air-fuel mix runs thick and cools the turbo, valves and other engine internals. +Yellow flames out the exhaust during gearshift under heavy load. -It could clog up the ignition plugs with carbon. -Less power? -Bad fuel economy during regular driving. Resirculated dump: +Correct measured air mass at all times. +More power? -Muted dump sound. +Better fuel economy. +Blue flames out of the exhaust flames during gearshift under heavy load. Another question is where should I install the dump valve, on the hot or cold side on the pressure side? If I'm going to resirculate I think it should be on the cold side so it does not push warm air into the turbo. But that makes it more difficult to build with long tubes in the engine bay. If I put it on the hot side it's alot more easy to make resirculating piping. But if I dump atm it should not really matter if it's on the hot or coldside? as close as possible to the turbo should make the coolest sound.