Genesis®

good stuffs !!

that is HIGH !! i go to sherwood when prices are at late 70s to mid 80s. try using www.fuelwatch.com.au. its pretty useful and accurate.

had the same sound as well. i suspect that it could be the internal vent opening up to allow air in. i usually circulate the air inside the car when the A/C is on but when i turn it off, i noticed wind still blowing in when the car is moving and i realised that the vent has opened up to allow gushing air. may or may not be...

mine had a broken left vent, left headlight comes on as and when it feels like it, peeling rubber. but all solved/gone now.

take care and get well soon, Jay!

holy shit... wat u doing to yr car ??

i agree with Ryno.

pstanbis - if you do the bolt on, read the following thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30992 i know what you mean by being attached to your car. that is why i started this thread in the first place becos i wanna heard other member's experiences/views/comments as well. there are alot of pros and cons that you have to take into consideration. at the end of the day, its your car and your wallet. glenn

it shows the manufacturing year.

try pacific plaza. its an apartment facing the beach and very close to the main shopping attractions. my gf loves waking up early and just hanging by the balcony, looking out into the sea and slipping her lemon ice tea... i just watch tv.... glenn

its right next to a BP servo. theres also a huge 4X brewery... its hard to miss it.

yeah ... sydneykid gave me alot of valuable advice as well on my car's handling. he's a champ with plenty of experience in this area.

go to the milton maccas drive-thru .. and you will get to see chaos in person ...

actually... it was a direct cut-and-paste off your post from the Gavin Woods thread

try the FAQ section too... might be there... model numbers and specs are all listed.

slip - you did that time and time again to get that perfect handling that you craved for din you? paulr33 - what did the 9 outa 10 ppl ended doing with their converted cars?

Gavin Wood - Auto Tech 23 Gibbs St Labrador 4215 Ph: 5529 2313

hi Ray, the offset is 40mm. if you are here in brisbane, you are welcome to try fitting it onto your car. glenn

at launch or straight down?

found this while searching for info on the net. its really very good reference: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=148337 (by Daemon42) dated 11-8-2001 Here's how a sway bar works. Normally, without a sway bar when the car corners the weight of the chassis shifts toward the outside of the turn compressing the springs on that side. The springs on the inside generally extend a little, or do nothing. Relatively to the chassis itself, it appears that the outside suspension compresses and the inside doesn't. A sway bar couples the suspensions on each side to each other, *AND* relative to the chassis. If you could put the car up on a lift and actually compress the suspension on one side by hand, then a sway bar makes the compression of one side also try to compress the suspension on the other. Ok.. it's still not really obvious why that's useful so I'll say the same thing a different way. A sway bar effectively increases the spring rate on whichever side is compressed the MOST. If the sway bar were absolutely solid with no twist so there's a 100% coupling between each side then an attempt to compress one spring actually becomes an attempt to compress both springs. It doubles the spring rate. If the bar has some twist, then it may only increase the spring rate by say 50% on whichever side is compressed the most. So you're driving down the road and you go over a bump that goes across the entire lane. The sway bar does nothing. Both sides compress normally. You go around a corner and the chassis starts to lean and compress the outside suspension and now it's as though you have a bigger spring out there, so the car remains more level. That's the good part. Here's the bad part. You hit a bump with only one side, and it behaves the same way, as though you have a stiffer spring, so you feel uneven bumps more. You feel it crossing anything diagonally as well, such as coming into or out of a parking lot or driveway curb. That's all the simple "How does a sway bar work?" part. The real tricky one is.. "What does a sway bar do?" 1. We know it keeps the car more level. So what? Limiting the lean of the body is good because it means that when you take a quick set into a turn, that the body isn't still moving sideways after the tires at their limits. Otherwise you turn in quickly, the tires grip, then the body finally finishes leaning, when it stops, the tires loose grip. This is especially noticable in most cars in the slalom where you lean one way then the other and so forth. 2. It limits camber changes. The camber is the angle that the tire leans in or out at the top relative to the chassis of the car. The camber directly impacts the angle at which the tire cross section meets the road and thus controls lateral grip. As the suspension compresses the camber angle generally changes relative to the chassis. With a normal Macpherson strut that hasn't been lowered, the camber goes from positive to more negative as the lower A arm swings out straight, and then back to positive as it swings up. That swing up into positive camber is BAD. At that point the chassis is already leaned over so the tire may be starting to roll onto its sidewall. Changing the camber even more positive just just nasty. A big sway bar will prevent the body roll in the first place, and prevent the suspension compression on the outside which causes the positive camber change relative to the chassis. 3. Transfer lateral grip from one end of the car to the other. This one is a real trick to understand, but racers exploit this EVERY time they go on the track. Their spring rates are often so high, the cars so low, and their suspension travel so little, that the whole camber and body lean problem is already a non-issue. The car doesn't lean much with 500 lb springs. They use their bars to change the balance of the car. Here's the simple rules first. A big bar on the front, increases rear lateral and motive traction. A big bar on the rear, increases front lateral and motive traction. The applications. If the car is understeering, decrease front bar size, or increase rear bar size. This increases front lateral grip and decreases rear lateral grip giving the car a more neutral to oversteer feel. Reverse the process for too much oversteer. I mentioned motive grip. That's the neat one. Let's say your RWD car is handling ok, but everytime you get into a corner hard and get on the gas the rear inside tire breaks loose and spins. You can't accelerate out of the turn. You can go around the turn quite quickly, but you can't accelerate out, and the guy with traction hooks up and passes you halfway down the next straight because he came out of the turn going 3-4mph faster. The reason you're losing the traction at the inside rear, is usually because the rear bar is too big. As the rear outside suspension compresses, it's actually causing the rear inside suspension to compress as well (because the bar couples the sides.. remember where we started), and that decreases the weight on the rear inside tire. First thing. Decrease size of rear bar. That decouples the sides a bit, let's the inside tire press down on the road more and thus not spin when you're on the gas. Here's where it gets really tricky. If decreasing the size of the rear bar doesn't help enough the next thing you do is increase the size of the front bar. When the outside front compresses in a corner, it causes the inside front to compress and may actually lift that tire completely off the ground. The car is now sitting on 3 tires and guess where the weight that was on the inside front goes? Outside front? Some of it. The rest goes to the inside rear where we need more grip. The total weight of the car hasn't changed. It's just been redistributed, and a sway bar at one end, actually transfered weight to the other end of the car. All of this trickery applies to a FWD car too, and since the front tires share all of the motive AND most of lateral traction (because most of the weight is in (front), all the things that happen with big bars at either end are even more extreme. A big front bar stabilizes the body lean more but also creates a lot more understeer, and may make the inside front tire spin madly under power in a corner. A big rear bar can't give you back much lateral grip up front, but it can give you back some motive traction. Basically lettting you accelerate out of the turn, even when the front end is sliding pretty badly.

Joel - i am very tempted to compete with a R32 rb20det as well and see for myself how it goes. i reckon that my launch would be the better of the two before the rb20det turbo kicks in... but then again, i do have that extra 500cc :headbang: ... i will be going for the drag combat and hopefully have a chance to line up against a semi-stock rb20det. have a feeling that it might be a neck to neck at the finish. my r32 is mechanically A1, both inside and outside. just gotten around to servicing her myself to understand her better. never really had a chance to have a go against the VS/VX commodores but i am sure that chance will come soon in the future.... i have smoke some integras, preludes (type R) before :looney: but then again, i rather play on the track than on public roads... i value my license too much. Slip - i have seen your car go/behave before during one of the skidpans organized by yourself. i was there with Zi. exactly how much time and effort have you spent on it already? and yeah, i am planning on changing the front brakes to a 4 pot, pretty much like what Ryno had done to his car. i have more or less work out a timeline for my car.. firstly, concentrate on the handling aspects of it including sways, struts, chambers, coilovers, etc. (i had some very good advice from members like sydneykid.) somewhere in the future, i do have the intention of dumping a rb25det into her.. it would be interesting to see how she goes then... btw, do you know of anyone here who dropped a rb25det into a r32 here in brisbane? thks guys glenn

welcome...

i can vouch for that!! .. i actually seen them before at jay's!!

i agree with paulr33. its either you get a new front cut and do your conversion from there or dun even bother at all. at the end of the day, the cost and hassle is too much work... a conversion is still highly recommended than a bolt-on UNLESS your internals are already built for it... such as the NA supras that came with forge pistons already ...

joel - yup.. driven a 33 series II gtst before and understand what you are trying to say. i probably will give it some thought too before any conversion... right now, i just wanna make my R32 handle better in corners and passes... even with a RB25DE, she's got plenty of torque and throttle response is fantastic... btw, i came across your website before on the net and didn't realised that you were a member here as well till now...