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Posts posted by rsx84
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You can use R31 LCA's with S13 coilovers, and you dont have to touch the tie rods at all. Using S13 LCA's you get SFA threads on, as said before. Thought I might have an issue with the balljoint but not so.
the s-13 LCA are 10mm longer than the r31 LCA, i knew there was something missing in my discription that caused the tie rod issue, using the s-13 LCA also adds chamber which is good but just a little over the top
any excuse to put up a pic hehehehe
i'm most likely going to go back to the r31 LCA and if i want chamber i'll use the adj strut tops. plus i can lower the car abit if the rims are sitting in by the 10mm at the front.
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i'm running the r32 4-pots on the front and r31 rears and have noticed no difference in braking other than the stopping power i now have.....
i've never heard of the rear r31 brakes locking when running 4 pots are on the front from anyone on the r31 forum, and quite a few of the QLD members do a bit of track work.
doing the fronts is a great upgrade for the r31... enjoy...
i'd be more thinking about what pads and fluid to use..
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350-400RWKW you wont get for any less than $5000- $10000+ on existing engine....
your next mod should be ECU related, either replace with full aftermarket set up and tune $1200-$$$ or look into something like a second hand SAFC piggy back controller $4-500 tuned, good tune on full replacement ECU with 14psi should get you 50-70 extra RWKW depending on the condition of you engine.
you will get better responses in the forced induction section though..
May-be a MOD can just move this thread..
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did this is my GTS2 about 2 months ago..
you can use the r31 LCA but not the hubs, tie rod ends are an iffy thing, a few people on the r31 forum have kept them but you have to wind them all the way out leaving like 4-5 threads, not 100% safe.
i used the s-13 tie rod ends with these extender arm/adaptors..
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yeah its an aust delivered 31 so there arent any type of brakes that would be a good upgrade? is there some sort of valve or something i can use when i do the front brake upgrade which will prob be 32 brakes just so that the backs dont lock up
with the aus r31 front struts you can't run the larger nissan callipers because they use a 100mm mounting spacing and the r31 has 90mm spacing, you'd have to get some import/ gts front struts with separate hub/rotor set up. even just the import/gts set up is a great improvement over the standard r31 front brake set up.
a mate of mine runs an rb30et set up with over 200+rwkw potential in his aus r31 and with the import front brake set up the engineer said "no problems turn the boost up".....
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mines alway for sale just depends on what i'm offered..
have a look here: http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php/topic,78414.0.html
PM me if your interested as you might be surprised what $$ i'd take..
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i can have a look tonight for ya...
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when looking at 2pot rear calipars you need to think of 2 things, Aus r31 uses a cable hand brake and the calipar spacing bracket ie: can i mounts the calipars on the 31 bracket...
if you remove the rear drive shafts on an aus 31 the calipar mounting bracket comes off too so you could get a new one made to fit both the diff houseing and the new calipars...
what calipars to use i don't know, if you look at later mode NA skylines they use a very similar looking rear calipar, may be look into these to see if any model offer a larger or even 2 pot calipar. most turbo models use the 2 pot without the same hand brake set up.
when doing a manual conversion you need the tail shaft and gear box x-member from a manual, mounting for the x-member is different too, need to drill 2 x holes through the floor and add 2 x bolts so you can use all 4 x holes on the x-member.
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i've started to mod my gts2 so i thought i'd add a pic of what it looks like on the outside, i didn't want to stray too far from the original concept.
please note: no gts2 was harmed in the making of what you see here...
interior will stay standard and i'll drop in the rb25det from my gxe...
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i nearly got an emissions fine for the air con drip line...WTF, this was not a randon "pull over open the bonnet" thing it was a "side of the road set up inspection stop" thing, about 8x officers checking every 2nd car, i can just amagin the amount of $$ they made that day with people not car minded...
theres not much you can do at the time when they really want to fine you...
i was talking to a cop one arvo and he was saying there are revenue fines and that at the time (end of the month) try to lay low as fines have to add up.
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why not just use the rb25de fuel rail, moddify the fuel lines rather than the fuel rail??
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I just run cut lower control arms as per Gordon Dobie's advise and then R31 GTS struts with R30 tops. You have to grind the thread to fit them but it all works reasonably well. Other thing is to get the shortest possible inserts for the back or it sits up and looks stupid. The shocker guys in Heidelberg West were good and fitted the new inserts for free. I forget what there name is.
so what you are saying is the r31 suspension is longer then the r30??
i've got a few days off early next week so i think i'll fit the GTS2 suspension into the HR30 and see what happens.
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Nice
tight means good...
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even funnier when you find yourself telling her how good her ass car looks....
"nice tight looking body.....kit you have there....."
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i'll take the head lights, throw the rest away....
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you'd better change the title to 1899.4.......
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thats alright! but mines a 430, not a 480
well, no im strapped for cash, so im remapping the stocko ecu. which is not ideal i realise, but i will get a pfc by my 21st in july hopefully.
know that, that why i said around the 200 -210rwkw mark, i didn't think there was anyone re-mapping the r33 ECU? and charging by the hour sounds more like dyno time then re-mapping the ECU?
may be an SAFC / SAFC 2 could be a good cheaper option than the re-map? you should be able to get a good second hand one for $200-250 then at a good tuner maybe and hours tune.. $100-150... you can also re-sale the safc once you get the PFC hehehe..
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i have read that on an r33 the KKR480 was good for 270RWKW at 18psi, i 'd say the 200-210 make your thinking would be about right.. if not slightly higher..
are you running some sort of piggy back ECU or full aftermarket??
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a couple of people have asked me about the english version i have, which was posted here but no longer, if you go to
http://pivotjp.com/download/flame-download-e.html
this is a link to the english website which has all the pivot manuals in pdf form.
whats really funny is i haven't installed it yet and i bought it for $280 5 years ago. sad face....
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hi-lux surf with twin cannon mufflers and a fake 600x 300 FMIC (no piping but has the silicone joiners) HAHAHAHA must work up the road from my work and i had to walk past it this morning, laughed all the way to work..
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your car looks great, maybe post your questions in the forum itself?? you'll get more answers that way.
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Nissan australia would be the people to speck too, the correct paint code should be on the build plate and Nissan can tell you the factory painting process's..
paint fade over time can alway cause freshly painted panels to look different...
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I'm not sure if this is relevant but when I disconnected the front indicator/foggy connector
and turned the indicator on, though there's no light but the interior dash indicator indicator flashes like crazy
i think its the same situation where if a globe is broken you have broken the curcuit so if a globe is removed the curcuit is broken too? not 100% if that correct though..
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as above, 9 out of 10 times its a blown bulb, turn of the hazards and walk around the car. replace which ever one is not flashing..
Who's Got The Best Looking N/a Here?
in Naturally Aspirated Performance
Posted
here's my N/A GTS.....2
any excuse to post up a pic....