aarc240

Any Z car box although a 260Z 2+2 is likely to have had less hard work. They are all interchangeable and the Z cars have better ratios than a C210. Even the four cylinder boxes can be used - there is very little difference. One place you WILL get complications is the shifter position - they vary a little depending on the intended original use so some surgery on the floor is often required. Watch the length of the box. C210's use the longer box like Z cars, C110's and most 4's whereas the R30 uses a shorter box. Very little front suspension is really interchangeable but then the original can be improved cheaply and effectively.

English SU's. Provided they are reasonanly set up (right needles) they should work fine. Bolt them on and try it - I have a pair like it on a 260Z and it's OK

All Australian delivered C110 and C210 cars are IRS so it won't matter too much which you start with. I'm pretty sure all R30's were too so the only consideration is they got heavier as they came out. C110 is around 1130kg, C210 around 1205kg and I'm led to believe R30's are close to 1300kg. Any of them will perform well as a weekend warrior, particularly with a warm L28. With an L28: get the head cleaned up in the ports, fit 38mm 21-4N stainless exhaust valves on nickel steel seats (ULP compatible for good life) swap to a mild street cam (around 265 degree at 1.2mm lift is good) add a 240Z twin carb setup and a good 65mm exhaust after the stock manifold have the distributor overhauled and fit a good high energy ignition It will be good for around 180 hp at 6000 rpm, will still give reasonable economy and won't require an R200 rear end. If you want more and don't mind spending money to get it: use a 275 degree at 1.2mm lift cam fit triple 45 Webers and a cold air airbox intake filter system with the largest filter & casing you can squeeze in install headers & the good 65mm exhaust install a 4.1 or 4.3 R200 limited slip diff 200 plus hp at the same revs, a narrower power band (about 3500 to 6500) around 235 hp can be had from the same combo by installing flat top pistons and running 98 octane fuel Of course all the good practices in build must be followed to get the power and keep it all together. These are still not extreme motors and will last well when built right. Heads & EFI: Look for the casting id on the lower edge of the head between 1st & 2nd cylinder spark plugs. E88 is reasonably common from 240Z & early 260Z N42 is common from late 260Z, most 280ZX (may or may not be drilled for EFI intake) these two are basically the same with similar chambers and ports, N42 usually has the larger valves. Stock 280ZX EFI - don't bother on anything more than a warm L26. It wasn't a performance item, it was a pollution solution. Can be improved with considerable effort and expense to work very well indeed. Head and EFI from an R30 - don't waste your time or money. The head has the small valves (260/280 size valves hit the cylinder walls on a L24 which an R30 has) and the injection is a pollution solution. Of course if you are going to fit bigger & better valves anyway as well as porting the head then an N42 from a well looked after R30 is a good basis! btw, you can run carbs & manifold on an EFI head - both sets of bolt holes were drilled/tapped by Nissan.

coupe72001 (Drew), there shouldn't be too much left over! Sounds like you've won yourself a pretty good start at someone elses expense. I'd just swap as much as I reasonably could to start with, see how it works for you and then start refining. Be careful if you sell the seats and harnesses - make sure that your ad clearly states they came from a rolled rally car so no S.O.B. can try legal action later. racsov500 Do some digging via the Internet. Konis can be had for just about anything, particularly competition stuff. Koni USA is a good site for data. Same applies to Bilstein, they don't list parts for C110 or C210 but the competition range includes units of suitable dimensions. With struts the trick is to look for a cartridge with the right body diameter, adequate travel compared to your originals and a body length either the same as your originals or shorter. If shorter just add a suitable length piece of steel tube below the cartridge so that the whole assembly locks down tight on re-assembly. Natyrally you want units that fit your strut tops too! With seperate dampers you might have to move one or both mounts to accomodate a different body length but that would be unusual.

Forgot this! If you just concentrate on upgrading the brakes and suspension first, even the auto will do for now. Initially just good pads and linings, decent gas dampers, drop it about 35mm with stiffer springs and some decent stiffer sway bars. Depending on whether you can do the work or all done for you somewhere from $800 to $1500 or more. That will allow you to try out club regularity track events and road rallies (none of which require even a roll bar!) Don't think the auto is dumb - we've had a young guy take a stock auto R31 up Collingrove hillclimb in 32 seconds. Lotus Cortinas, R2000 Excorts etc are struggling to get under 34 seconds! Later you want 270mm by 20mm vented discs on front (Peugeot 504 with 5mm spacers) and Toyota RN60/YN60 '88 four spot calipers. I've seen R30 rear discs conversions, also 280zx but on a C210 can't comment. Not too hard on a C110 but there are differences. After that, well the sky is the limit (and the wallet). Above all, find a CAMS affiliated club you like, caters for the event types you are interested in and JOIN. The support and friendship is worth gold.

Assuming you have a 4-door auto, you will start with a nominal 1210kg car. Swap to manual gives 1205kg. Not as heavy as many people think (Australian spec 240z is 1030kg, C110 is 1130kg) Before getting too far into it, do check out classes and types of events. Regularity class events give all the opportunity most people want unless they REALLY want to be the next Craig Lowndes. Also keep in mind that in two years this car is eligible for classic competition, including road events. A combination of regularity, navigational rallies and events like Duttons, Classic Adelaide etc is a real blast. Much more fun to be able to drive hard legally on roads you would usually get booked for. I wouldn't put in a full cage, as desirable as it may be as that would take the car off the road (illegal on the street most states). A good roll bar with rear braces, remove the rear seat, add good anchorages for street legal (ADR compliant) full harness belts both sides. DON'T change the class of car to two seat just 'cause of the belts - if ever challenged by a cop show him (politely) the lap/sash belt mounts and explain that when not being used or prepared for comp the rear seat goes back in as do all the standard seat belts, the harnesses come out. Yeah, right! Anything other than an L24 is going to class the car as a modified, and if not an L6 then it's Sports Sedan with attendant $$$$ OK, a 4-door is somewhat less than attractive but it's a good place to start. Get it working well with good brakes, decent suspension and a hot L28. You really don't need a stroker. Big $$. A good triple Weber L28 will fry any tires you care to run including R class. Stick to no less than 5 inch 125mm ground clearance and if using it on road add 3mm minimum aluminium skid plates under engine and gearbox. Learn to use it to it's best, find out what sort of competition you really like. If you want to continue after a couple of years, hunt down a hardtop. Switch everything to it (same wheelbase and mechanically identical) and you can run something unusual without spending a fortune. If you want something different, the C210 Skyline taillights bolt straight in, so does the grille and front trim. It won't be as quick as a 240z but it will be a lot easier to live with. Not as hard to drive quickly either!

Look what turned up on eBay! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Kaaz-LSD-Suit-VL-Tu...1QQcmdZViewItem Talk about ask and ye shall recieve!!

If you want to keep a rear end under an R31 with a serious motor you will need to talk to a diff specialist. A good and not too obvious upgrade is a narrowed Borg Warner with LSD from a Valiant with mounts to suit the R31. Gear ratios are going to be a challenge as the selection is pretty thin. Not quite as strong but still reasonable is the rear end from a V8 Commode. Again, ratios are a pain.

This may help with definitive dating the C110 in Australia. Our KHGC110 000302 carries an 02/73 ADR plate from 'Nissan Motor Co (Aust) P/L' which describes it as a Datsun Coupe GT. Does anyone really KNOW what was the commencement chassis number - just seems very unlikely that there were 301 cars before this one unless that includes JDM chassis too!