Sayajin

Okay guys. So I know exactly what a surge tank is, I also know how to set one up. My question however is WHY install a surge tank? I mean I always planned to install one as I thought it was just one of those things you are supposed to do, especially if you have a high HP application. However I have been doing some more research and talking to a number of people with high hp cars and they dont use a surge tank. Hell they look at me crazy for even talking about one. Essentially the setup is very similar, just without the tank. They use a lift pump to get fuel out of the tank, then have the line running to a larger pump (or 2 pumps) then route it the way you normally would. They completely eliminate the surge tank. So my question is, if it is not used because that is the only way to supply enough fuel to the system in high hp applications, what is the primary purpose to install a surge tank? Thanks guys. -Sayajin

Okay guys. So over the past few days I have done a little more R&D and this is what I have come up with. This SHOULD be the final design for my twin fuel source fuel system. I think this is the IDEAL way to do everything. The MAIN benfit of this is that I am able to bypass the surge tank when using C16, so I dont have to wait for the surge tank to empty when I want to switch to C17, and conversely dont waste 1.9L of C16 when I switch back to pump. I just need to let the fuel get out of the rail and the lines and viola! There is one big HOWEVER in this setup though, I would need the valves to be 3 settings valves: Left Open Right Open Both Closed That way I can close the lines as necessary to purge the system. This would be ideal as I only need 2 valves. One in the trunk with the fuel system, and one under the hood at the rail. If I cant get valves with all 3 settings then I would have to double that number and get 4 individual valves. On a good note however, most fuel cells made over here in the USA have the fuel feed at the bottom, so I wont need ANOTHER pump to act as a lift pump. Check it out: http://static.summitracing.com/global/imag...um-291205_w.jpg Viola! So what do you guys think? Any comments or suggestions? -Sayajin

I wouldnt say that it is jealousy, I would say that people want proof of a claim so great. I mean that would be the same thing as someone saying, I ran a 11.8 1/4mi in my stock GTR33! Wouldnt you want some type of proof of the claim? Not becuase you are jealous, but becuase it is a VERY rare if not impossible (or thought to be) feat. Hell didint they even make Jesus walk on water and change water to wine to prove his claims? Surely if Jesus didint mind proving himself you shouldnt. -Sayajin

Humm... thinking about it I think your method would be ideal. It would just be a matter of setting it up. I dont understand 100% of it so I am hoping you can clarify a few things for me. One, if we were to do it and connect to the surge tank, would I need a lift pump inside of the fuel cell to put the fuel in the surge tank? I sure hope not! Two, if we were to connect the fuel cell directly to the twin pumps, I am assuming that I would not need a lift pump correct? Three, as far as the design you speak of, if I were to run the lines directly from the fuel cell to the dual pumps, how would the connections work? The fuel pumps would be connected directly to the surge tank. So in order to run the fuel cell to the pumps directly, I would need to put 2 more Y connectors there. One end coming from the surge tank and the other end coming from the fuel cell. There would need to be a seperate Y connector for both fuel pumps. Then add the valve there right before the pump to decide which fuel source it pulls from. Then I would need another Y connector at the fuel rail return portion. One to return back to the surge tank for the pump gas, and the other to return directly to the fuel cell for the C16. I would of course need another valve there to decide which return line it uses. Is that correct as far as the setup you have described? And can it be done? I mean can you run fuel lines directly into the pumps and not have them pull from the surge tank directly? I will try to get a diagram of what I mention above later, I only have paint here at work and its inadequate for what I am trying to describe. Thanks for the help! -Sayajin

Hummm... Question. In that diagram, are the lines you drew in supposed to come from the stock tank, which they are, or from the new fuel cell? Also if I run those lines directly to the dual fuel pumps, how would that work? I mean as far as having those coming directly to the pumps and also have the lines from the surge tank run to the pumps? Thats a good note about the fuel mixing because of the return line. I never thought about that.. As far as the valve for the return, I suppose I can add one of the same valves on those and keep it closed when I want to swap fuels. -Sayajin

The surge tank is not really for the fuel cell, but for the stock fuel tank. I am using the stock GTR fuel pump as a lift pump to pump fuel to the surge tank so that the dual bosch pumps can then pump it to the fuel rail. So I have to have the Y line before the surge tank. -Sayajin

X2. -Sayajin

Okay, here is a crude diagram explaining what I am trying to do. Forgive me for its lack of complexity, im not the most creatively inspired person in the world. Edited to show return lines -Sayajin

Okay guys. I recently decided that I was not going to be running a meth injection kit in my GTR33 and have decided to go a different route. However I still need a little help with the design. First let me tell you what I currently plan to run: I plan to use the stock GTR pump as a lift pump, running to a surge tank, coming out to 2x Bosch 044 pumps then running to a SARD fuel rail. A pretty standard dual pump setup. Now this is what I want to do: Run the above setup, however sit on the side next to the surge tank and dual pumps, a 5 gallon fuel cell. I want to be able to store my C16 in this 5 gallon fuel cell. Here is where the question comes in however. What I would like to do is this if you can picture it, run a Y line, one coming from the stock fuel tank and the other coming from the new 5 gallon fuel cell. Then plug the single end on the Y line into the surge tank. Now here is the big thing. I would like to put some type of valve right at the point where the Y lines becomes a single line that will allow me to open or close one side of the Y line. IE with the valve to the right, the part of the Y line that goes to the fuel cell is closed and the fuel pumps only get fuel from the stock tank. Conversly, when the valve is to the left, the part of the Y line that goes to the stock tank is closed and the pumps get fuel from the fuel cell. Get what I mean? Now I dont know if this can be done, but if so I would LOVE to. This would allow me to walk to my trunk turn the valve and have access to whichever fuel I want to run. Then I can walk back to the cabin, run the engine a bit to make sure all of the original fuel is out of the lines, and then change the fuel map to the map for the other fuel. Now here are my questions: 1. Can this be done? I mean do they make the Y line and the valve necessary to run it this way? 2. About the surge tank, does the surge tank actually store a large amount of fuel? Or does a small amount of fuel just go into the surge tank before it hits the fuel pumps? The reason I ask this is becuase lets say the surge tank stores 1 gallon of gas. That would mean once I turn the valve, I need to drive the car for say 8-10miles in order to empty the pump gas that was in the surge tank and lines and start getting the C16 in the lines. Or does only a bit of gas actually stay in the surge tank and I can turn the valve, drive a little bit to empty the lines and then be running the C16? Those are my main 2 questions regarding this setup. So what do you guys think? Thanks for all the help in advance! -Sayajin

You sure? Everyone else said the opposite. That when you adjust the map, you can also set it to adjust boost at the same time. -Sayajin

Hey guys. Just have a quick question. I know that the Power FC Boost Controller kit obviously plugs directly into the Power FC and it able to intergrate with it. However I am wondering it it can do a particular function. Say I switch maps on my Power FC to my race gas map, is it possible to make it so that the boost controller will automatically raise the boost to the high boost settings to match the map? Without me having to adjust any other settings than just selecting the appropriate map? That way I dont have to switch maps AND THEN raise the boost level? If so I think I will get the Power FC kit over the Profec B Spec II as I intially planned. I want to make it as seamless as possible to run high boost and switch maps. Thanks a lot guys. btw, I mean using a Power FC in connection with the FC Datalogit of course. The Power FC itself only allows one map. -Sayajin

Actually I think the AP's are slightly bigger. I believe the Brembo are 355mm and AP are 360mm or 365mm. -=Sayajin

Okay guys. I am currently looking at 2 different big brake kits for my GTR33 and I wanted to get your guys opinions on what to get. Initially I was looking at the AP Racing 6 Piston kit. However I have a friend who is currently selling his Brembo F50 kit for about the same price I was going to spend on the AP Racing kit. I know that the F50 kit comes with the floating rotors and the AP racing comes with larger calipers. While I know that the number of calipers is not always the decisive thing for stopping power, I think it would make a difference in high quality brake kits. Which one do you guys think will have the most stopping power? Thanks. -Sayajin

Quick question guys. I know that these wheels will fit on the R33 GTR with no modification. I also know the tires will fit onto the wheels. However, I have heard conflicting things about rubbing when at full lock. I plan to run a Tein Mono Flex Coilover system and 18X10 +18 Wheels with 275/35/18 rubber on them. The Tien system should drop the car about 1/2 or so. When at full lock, will I have problem with these wheels rubbing the inside plastic lining? As I said above, I know they fit with no mods, but not sure about rubbing the inner lining. Thanks a lot guys. -Sayajin

Okay. I currently have a pair of stock R34 wheels on my GTR33. Wheels which I love. However, I am in the process of doing some signifigant upgrades and will be needing all the traction I can get. The stock R34 wheels are 18X9, I am considering going with wider wheels to a 18X10. However as I know a guy selling a SEXY pair of 18X9.5 I may decide to go with those as well. Anyway, Im wondering, truthfully does that exta inch or half inch make a difference as far as traction goes? I mean sure if you plan on upgrading your wheels you might as well get wider ones, however what about if you are happy with your wheels? Let me know what you guys think. Thanks a lot. -Sayajin

Quick Question Guys. I have been reading over this thread and it appears that the largest wheel size you can put on an R33 GTR with NO modifications are: 18 X 10 +18 or +20 I just want to confirm that you dont have any clearance issues as far as with turning or anything like that. 10" wide wheels would be perfect for my build as I need to help with traction, but I just want to make sure that I am not going to have any problems turning or anything along those lines as I will probably be getting into doing road racing as well. Thanks a lot for the info and the help guys. I do greatly apprecaite it, -Sayajin

bump -Sayajin

Yea I can get you some pics later on tonight. No they are just the snails, dont come with the actuators. I need these damn things gone. Someone buy them! lol -Sayajin

Feel free to make reasonable offers on these turbos. I need them gone! -Sayajin

What were you worried about? It seems to me that everyone who is using this kit is ecstatic about it.... -Sayajin

I need a postal code so I can figure it for ya. -Sayajin

Just let me know man. I am sure we can work something out. -Sayajin

Power FC SOLD!! Twins still available. -Sayajin

Correct. -Sayajin

Okay guys. Here is what I have: 2x HKS 2530 Turbos w/ under 9k km on them These are in PERFECT condition with NO shaft play. Only selling because I am going RB30 and want something a bit bigger. These are direct bolt on turbos for your Skyline and are capable of about 550-600WHP with correct supporting mods. I will NOT split the turbos. Sold as a set. Price: $2500AUD plus shipping OBO. Power FC w/ Hand Controller for R33 This item is nearly new and was only used a few times in my car. Only reason I am selling is once again because I am going RB30. This unit plugs directly into the factory harness. Since it comes with the hand controller you can also adjust your own settings and tune. Price: $820AUD plus shipping OBO. feel free to PM or email me with any questions: [email protected] -Sayajin